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I'm having trouble getting my head unit to control my subs.

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Old Feb 15, 2010 | 03:53 AM
  #21  
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you could have blown crossovers in your subs it will have a sweetish sent in the box well mine did
 
Old Feb 15, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #22  
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80Hz is a common setting for 6.5" and 6x9 speakers
120Hz is common for 5.25" speakers

you want corresponding low pass and high pass crossovers, remove the bass from your speakers.

what size fuse did you use? what does the amp recommend?

did you verify the impedance of your subs and the load they present to the amplifier?

is the amp wired for stereo or mono?
 
Old Feb 15, 2010 | 03:08 PM
  #23  
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I'm not sure how to check the crossovers in my subs?

30 watt fuse. The one next to it, that lights up, is also a 30 watt.

I'm not sure how to check that either? unless you mean the ohms?

It's wired for stereo.
 
Old Feb 15, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #24  
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You could have blown cross overs in the subs if it had a sweetish smell thats it but those 2 minutes it worked was it the best 2 minutes of hard hitting bass ever
 
Old Feb 15, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #25  
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There wasn't any smell? I tried replacing the fuse and it just did the same thing. I didn't push the subs either. So i'm not sure what killed the fuse.
 
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 01:45 AM
  #26  
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your subs don't have crossovers in them. they have voice coils.

fuses blow when current through them exceeds their rating. that can happen from a damaged amp or too low impedance load at high volumes. if you disconnect the speaker wires, does the fuse blow?

are the subs 4 ohm DVC or 2 ohm DVC?

use a DMM and measure resistance across the speaker leads - disconnected from the amp as described above.
 
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 08:23 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
good call, i mistook the red light as a protect light and not a fuse light.
Not a problem! Hope it all gets worked out...theres been to many posts since mine that I dont feel like reading
 
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
your subs don't have crossovers in them. they have voice coils.

fuses blow when current through them exceeds their rating. that can happen from a damaged amp or too low impedance load at high volumes. if you disconnect the speaker wires, does the fuse blow?

are the subs 4 ohm DVC or 2 ohm DVC?

use a DMM and measure resistance across the speaker leads - disconnected from the amp as described above.
I wouldn't know i've only tried them hooked up. I could disconnect the subs then try putting the amp on and see what happens?

4 ohm.

Okay i'll try that.

Thanks.
 
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 04:53 PM
  #29  
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ok, if they are 4 ohm DVC, and are properly wired in parallel, then the amp should be seeing a 2 ohm stereo load. this should be ok, but will extract maximum current from the amplifier.

what is the gain setting at? does the fuse blow at a certain volume level or even with the volume low?

if the amp fuse blows when the subs are disconnected, the amp is bad.

ignore the capacitor fuse and just remove it for now. you only care about amplifier fuses. you should have two 30A fuses in the amp, and if you have a fuse on the amp power wire it should be 60A.
 
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive
ok, if they are 4 ohm DVC, and are properly wired in parallel, then the amp should be seeing a 2 ohm stereo load. this should be ok, but will extract maximum current from the amplifier.

what is the gain setting at? does the fuse blow at a certain volume level or even with the volume low?

if the amp fuse blows when the subs are disconnected, the amp is bad.

ignore the capacitor fuse and just remove it for now. you only care about amplifier fuses. you should have two 30A fuses in the amp, and if you have a fuse on the amp power wire it should be 60A.
The gain on the amp or head unit. And no not a specific level as much as it was an amount of time.

I just now noticed that the second fuse, that lit up, was blown too. I only changed the second one. Do you think that having one fuse working and the other not working would cause the working one to go out?

I'm not exactly sure what that one is, but it's suppose to be made for a 4 gauge wiring kit.

Also, My ground wire for my capacitor is a power wire. Is that okay or not? Someone told me that it was the same thing, and i'm beginning to doubt that. But the thing is that my capacitor still works. ? It was working the 2 minutes my subs were on also. So i'm not sure.
 



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