pro boxes are made of a slightly harder substance heres a picture...

http://www.proboxrocks.com/products/...PB/index.shtml

where as normal boxes look like this

http://aveshop.co.uk/catalog2/images/Single%20Box.jpg

 

The probox looks nice, but unnecessary. I've never even heard of HDF, wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't such a thing. Anyways, your sub isn't going to need a monster box. 3/4" MDF will be good, 1" would be great. The materials only matter as much as how well it was constructed. I don't trust anyone to do any manual labor for me, people now a days are always taking the easy way out. You can build a box your self for $30, and a sealed really is easy to make. Have a friend or even your dad help you.

EDIT: Actually looking more at probox's webpage I don't like them very much. They don't seem to be serious competition boxes, they are just being marketed as being loud and the best. I don't see any tuning specs at all, and all their boxes are ported. They are just trying to get people who don't know much about car audio to think their box is something special.

Wow, upon further investigation it has only gotten worse. They engrave (deeply) right into the HDF, severely weakening those areas. Looking at a naked box they go down almost half an inch, into 1" HDF. They care more about making the box look cool, then keeping it together for years. Real boxes take a serious beating from high powered subs.

 

ohhh i understand so just stick to the regular sealed box??...ok...well seeing as how 15" are alot louder and hit lower bass and a sealed box hits higher notes more crisp and clean...would they kinda almost cancel each other out??...cuz if im not mistaken arent most 15"s made for ported boxes??

 

No that's not the case at all. Because the sub is so large you will get great SPL, and the sealed will allow the sub to give all the SQ she's got.

 

well damn THATS GONNA BE MY FINAL SETUP!!

 

I'm glad lol. Well its time to fire up the vape, get some trailer park boys going, and pass out for the night.

 

t00fat ..... what do you think of CDT components up front (I can fit 6.5, but I think I'd rather go with 5.25), Kicker 6.5" subs in the rear and a sealed 15 in the trunk? I'd be powering the front and little subs with my Phoenix Gold 75x4 amp and I need a new sub amp. I'd most likely run the small subs in a bridged-parallel arrangement (1 Ohm stable stereo, 2 Ohms mono).

 

I've never heard CDT's so I wouldn't know. Those small subs, will only be good for higher notes, and the subs will need a good amount fo power to sound tight and crisp on those highs. And kicker subs aren't great SQ subs. So if you want to do the small subs I would use W6s. I would just add speakers, not having speakers in the rear really kills the staging. I only had my fronts installed for a couple months while I saved up for my rears and another amp, the sound didn't sound full until I put in the rears, and falk you don't want a 15", that's way to much SPL and not enough SQ for you. A 12" would be better, then still have good SPL but can hit those highs much cleaner. Also a 15" needs a bigger box, a 12" will still allow you some trunk room. You just need a good single high powered sub, and you will have more bass than you know what to do with.

 

CDT is a small Canadian company that makes speakers that everyone that I've spoken to that has heard them raves about them. They are kinda pricey but it seems pretty apparent why ..... competition type SQ and carbon fiber cones for weight reduction ...... I'm sure that also has to do with the SQ since the weight keeps the inertia down.

I've never had a system without rear full range speakers, but I've always read that the rear fill isn't that important. A friend had a setup without rear full ranges and I thought that it sounded pretty good, but that was 12 years ago.

I was thinking of the 6.5s mainly because thats the rear size. I think that I'm going to hook up my PG amp in briged mode to power my late 90's JBL 12's and see what I need from there ..... obviously the 4 channel amp is intended for the full ranges at the end of the day, but I can use the HU amp for the time being ...... once I get the HU.

 

Well maybe back in the day, but now subs have gotten to the point where they have great SQ. 6.5" subs will be very buzzy and punchy, but a 10" W7 can do that plus more. You defiantly don't need full range speakers in the back to fill, but subs won't fill it. You need some kind of mid bass coming from the back, at least that's what I think I'm no expert. Or do you mean 6.5" woofers? Because that wouldn't be a bad idea at all, you don't really need the tweets in the back. What has me really thinking again is running a 15" and a 10", with the 15" crossed at 40hz and the 10" at 90hz. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I have no understanding of acoustical engineering.