I have one of my amps under my front seat. It is not the best place to install an amp, if you plan it last you several years than I would stick to the trunk. The amp can run a bit hot under the seat, and as mentioned by finch the heater vent will be blowing moist air at it.

The stock speakers have more bass than almost any aftermarket speaker. The stock speaker is designed to sound very boomy and nothing else.

I haven't done this myself but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Get some dual core cable, the small cable with two wires. So you only have to run the two front speaker wires from the HU to the trunk for the LOC(using one cable for each speaker). Then use some 14awg to run to your speakers from your amp.

Your rears are not going to be any louder than the fronts, especially since they will be seeing less power than they are rated for. They won't be very much quieter than the max rating though. The acoustics of the rear speaker location makes them not as easy to hear from the front to begin with, but you will have to play with your crossover to get your sound stage more upfront.

EDIT: Also until your speakers break in they will not be as "bassy", and may distort with bass that they won't normally when broken in. Don't judge your speakers too much until you get at least 10 hours on them. But I wouldn't expect any crazy quality from those coxial kickers.

Since I'm thinking I may just get a crappy amp for now (Sony - since is $$ hitting hard these days - although i was checking out the Profile California amps as recommended by someone in here - but seems like most are disco) - I may just mount under seat - that is if I can find a way to bolt it down well - if it blows - I'm out $80 in a year or 2 from now when $$ will hopefully be better/I may be closer to selling the car.

As for the heat blowing on it - not hard to re-direct the heater vent under the seat - simple looming tube will do for that - I think I can count on 1 hand the number of times I've had someone in my backseat - so not worried that their feet might be cold on a Pennsylvania winter morning.

I'm slightly disappointed to hear that the stocks may out perform the Kickers in the low end. I'd love to get a small bazooka in there, but really don't have the room - and not sure I want to run 2 amps off a simple battery/no capacitor, etc.

Dual Core wire? link?

LOC?

But - thanks for the advice.

EDIT: Commute 3 hours round trip everyday. Have had them going about 15 hrs thus far - again - super underpowered - but going.

Other random question - are the tweeters in parallel with the fronts? series? etc. are they getting their own output from the HU?

I know it's not the best thing, but I would just go and mount the amp under the seat then. There are better cheap amps than sony, stay away from Boss, Pyle, Sony, and a few others. My kenwood amp was dirt cheap, and cleanly meets it's rated power. I don't really have experience with many other kenwood amps, but I have been pleased.

LOC is just short for a line out converter, what you use to convert your speaker level outputs into RCA low level outputs. Forget the two wire cable, just get some of that "speaker wire" that has two wires joined together, same thing pretty much.

Also I wouldn't call your speakers broken in, once you get a few hours with them amped they will be practically broken in. They will keep softening up over time giving you a bit better low end response. Now if you want to get all the bass from your speakers, look up a tutorial on how to "seal" the front door panel. The inner panel(between the plastic door panel and window) of the door is not a solid piece and has gaps and holes everywhere. Basically you seal up the holes with some deadening material, basically having the speakers in a big "sealed" box. This will increase your bass accuracy and output from your front speakers. You can get quite a bit of bass from the fronts. If your rears can handle a sealed enclosure you can build a box to fit behind them and seal them, but I think that is more trouble than it's worth.

EDIT: You won't really need to worry about upgrading your battery until you are drawing quite a bit of power. The alt will be able to supply a fairly sized system(<1000w) and still charge the battery. A new battery will only do two things, increase the max amps you can draw for a short bursts, and/or give you more battery life with the engine off (Or with a big system while the alternator does not have enough current to feed your amps, and your amps are drawing power from your battery. But even with big systems your never constantly drawing the RMS rating, you only get close when you start to blast your music). A cap is for even bigger systems where the alt and battery cannot supply the amps with the power they demand at their peaks. A cap only adds to your current draw, making it worse on your battery and alt.

What Kenwood are you running?

Any thoughts on the tweeters? I added an edit after reading your edit.
ha

Any suggestions on mounting it under the seat?

My kenwood is the KAC-6202, it's a 2ch not 4ch though. If you can hear your tweeters distorting already then disconnect them. I disconnected mine when installing my system with out even trying it. They are not crossed, so any bass will cause them to distort and can destroy them. I don't even have my amp bolted down, just Velcroed to the rug. I couldn't really get at it without removing the seat.

EDIT: Be sure to read my edit in the post above. I don't know how the tweeter is wired, but it does not have it's own channel from the HU that's for sure. I'd guess it's parallel though.

Velcro! Sweet - from the man who is rewiring alternators, batteries, and frames with 0- gauge wire..:) had to lol a bit on that -

well - I know there are def airbag/etc. senors under there, but was thinking of trying to get at least 1 good screw into something - and then using the high temperature mount stuff you can get at radio shack (same stuff you use to hold your ez-pass in place). Just not sure what I can 'stick' them to. carpet and sticky aren't usually the best of friends.

you don't have issues with it bouncing around? moving? etc.

Doesn't move at all, the velco is really just adding a lot of friction not so much sticking to the carpet. While I'm not 100% on this, there are no airbag sensors under the driver seat only the passenger. There is no room to install an amp under the passenger seat b/c of the airbag weight sensor. Also curtain airbags are pretty rare on the 03-05 so you probably don't even have airbags built into the front seats.

So - I'm checking out the profile california amps that someone had suggested on here - and - until they stoopped carrying them about 4 days ago - crutchfield advised going with as well.

They have a 60x4 rms for $70!? and a 80x4 rms for 110!?

Sketchy...can anyone back these amps? I can't even seem to find a website for customer service for them.

THink its worth taking a gamble with the brand and getting the 80x4?

Macleod was the one that said that, and honestly I would do what ever he says blindly. He wouldn't have said it if it wasn't true. I wouldn't call it a gamble.

cool - just bought the Profile AP1040. Its 80wx4 rms @4ohm. Includes a speaker to line level converter. Got it for $105 with shipping. It was one of the last ones I could find on the web - hope Profile California didn't go under.

Now, if people in the CRV forum could only reply to an issue I have as fast as you toofatt, I'd be set.

Thanks for all the help. I'll let u know when I get it/install it.

EDIT: It also turns out they're shipping me some tweeter set free with it. This could be the party that rocks that party.