New Radio won't work after ECU got replaced.
#12
Thanks! That is exactly what I needed. It looks like I was testing the ignition wire which is why I got 00.1 mv. When I checked the power wire, I was getting 9 volts. I guess that would be enough for the factory radio but not the new Kenwood.
Any ideas on why I'm only getting 9 volts instead of 12?
Any ideas on why I'm only getting 9 volts instead of 12?
#13
one common reason for measuring low voltage is poor grounding. voltage is relative, and with increased ground resistance, you will measure lower voltage.
the ignition wire should have 12V when the car is on. if that also measures 9 volts then you have a grounding issue.
the ignition wire should have 12V when the car is on. if that also measures 9 volts then you have a grounding issue.
#14
one common reason for measuring low voltage is poor grounding. voltage is relative, and with increased ground resistance, you will measure lower voltage.
the ignition wire should have 12V when the car is on. if that also measures 9 volts then you have a grounding issue.
the ignition wire should have 12V when the car is on. if that also measures 9 volts then you have a grounding issue.
I've been trying to find grounds to check, there is an ECU ground that is supposed to connect to the engine block around the upper radiator hose. I cannot find this ground, does anyone know its location on a 93 Accord LX? Would this ground affect the radio/clock?
Again, thanks for any help!
#15
Where are you measuring the voltage? where is the black DMM lead? you say that the WHT/YEL has 9V? If so, I would suspect a bad 7.5A fuse/connection.
If you disconnect the Kenwood, does the voltage on WHT/YEL increase to 14V also?
If you disconnect the Kenwood, does the voltage on WHT/YEL increase to 14V also?
#16
I'm measuring the voltage at the radio plug, with no radio attached. The black DMM lead is on the black (negative?) wire. I've checked both the fuse under the dash and the backup fuse under the hood. Neither is blown, can the fuse be no good and still look ok? The factory radio still works, so I'm assuming the fuses are good.
#17
wow. there is no reason you should measure 9.7VDC on that wire (with the plug disconnected) unless there is a problem up-stream. like a bad connection at the fuse box.
bypass that wire - assume it is bad. pull that fuse. run a new wire from the battery to your HU, with an inline fuse at the battery. 12AWG wire with a 20A fuse is sufficient.
bypass that wire - assume it is bad. pull that fuse. run a new wire from the battery to your HU, with an inline fuse at the battery. 12AWG wire with a 20A fuse is sufficient.
#18
wow. there is no reason you should measure 9.7VDC on that wire (with the plug disconnected) unless there is a problem up-stream. like a bad connection at the fuse box.
bypass that wire - assume it is bad. pull that fuse. run a new wire from the battery to your HU, with an inline fuse at the battery. 12AWG wire with a 20A fuse is sufficient.
bypass that wire - assume it is bad. pull that fuse. run a new wire from the battery to your HU, with an inline fuse at the battery. 12AWG wire with a 20A fuse is sufficient.
#20
Or as an alternative to running a new wire directly from the battery, you can use an "Add-a-circuit" to plug into an unused slot in the driver's side fuse box to power the radio.
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Da...FHM02FHA02.pdf
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Da...FHM02FHA02.pdf