Back I was dumb, I paid Best Buy to install just an amp for $40.

 

Depends on the shop and the area.
In my area there are 4 shops...2 within 1/10 of a mile of each other...and it is a small population area so competition is a bit stiff.
Depending on how complex the install is a head unit is usually $40.00, Speakers a bit less for coaxial that drop in and $40ish for components that aren't to complex, amps around $50.00...again depending on complexity.
You can usually get a better price if you buy it all at once and installed at once. A lot less work.
You can also usually negotiate a better price if you buy all at once as well.

 

If I were you, I'd PM MacLeod for stereo advice. He's the man!!! Also, wire one of the front channels in reverse polarity. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense, but it really helps the soundstage in your car..... trust me, I did it per Mac's advice and it did a lot. I was running a pair of MB Quartz components from a Phoenix Gold amp, Pioneer 3 way 6x9's in the rear .... and when I got rid of the car, I had not yet replaced my fried sub amp, so no sub.

Remember to verify that your RMS is capable with your alternator. No need to run tons of power when you can get the same or better sound from quality equipment running less Watts.

 

I did PM Macleaod, no response.

Can you explain how to wire the front channels in reverse polarity?

How can I verify that my RMS is capable with my alternator?

I am thinking about canceling on that Optima yellow top and purchasing a Kinetik battery. I don't know how many watts to get though.

Too much power isn't good, right?

 

My system runs off the stock battery and alternator with no problems at all. I do not think you need to go with anything other than a good quality batterybased on your budget foryour system choices.
Reverse polarity: rather than positive to positive/negative to negative you connect positive to negative on both terminals/connectors reversing the polarity. Falkore24 suggests connecting only "ONE" front speaker in reverse polarity not both.
Remember the advice you are getting is for a system in the sub $1000 range for lots of stuff. This is considered low end in the car audio world. That does not mean it does not sound great and get loud though.

If your still buying a system state your top budget, what you specifally want/hope to get, new or used gear, are you or a friend doing the install or a shop, etc. We will help as best we can but need info from you for useful advice.

 

dont waste money on Optima yellow! One thing i hate about honda is low amp altenators. My last car was a jetta 120 amp stock and my accord is around 90 and has more stuff for features then my jetta. I never heard of runnin the rear in in reverse pol. I never done that and all my systems sound great. install prices for the store i work for charges are 35 for deck, coax speakers and normal shop labor. Amp installs go by what size power wire, if its a sub amp or 4 channel and if ther is going to be distro block etc. shop labor go es up if product is not from us tho to 50 an hour for everything. for little over a grand I can do a whole alpine system .

deck 9884............. 199.99
alpine 445 powerpac.100.00
type r 12...............199.99
2 set of type s 6.5..199.98
mrp-m500 sub amp..199.99
prefab slot box.........99.99
Stinger 8ag amp kit...50.00
stinger 17 foot rca's..20.00
labor.......................95.00
dash kit/wiring harness.32.00
_______________________
total .....................1,197 plus tax

I just posted that so you can get an idea on parts.

 

The $500-$1000 was just a guideline. I sorta figured I would go over.

I found a place to get a kinetik battery for cheaper than optima yellow, and I think they perform better as well, am I right?
http://www.millionbuy.com/caudio-kit-sup.html

I swear I've developed insomnia, I spent all night for the past 3 nights reading on this ****, it's way more complex than everyday people think.

I'm set on getting the Alpine X100 HU, that is unless one of you can provide a good argument (more than lack of cd player) to dissuade me: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19353

I'm pretty sure I'm going to get some JL speakers, apparently everyone likes their quality:http://www.millionbuy.com/caudiospeakjla.html

However, I need help trying to find ones that would 1. fit in my car, and 2. mesh well with the unknown subwoofer and amp (possibly a hifonic?)that I need to get.
Millionbuy seems to have a lot of good equipment for cheap.

The Headunit is $300+Kinetik battery $200 or lower...
For speakers, subwoofer, and amp, $900 is the limit.
I don't think I'm going to purchase a capacitor, after reading all the nonsensical arguments pitched back and forth in the countless threads on this subject.

I am putting in the order for some ground wires for my engine bay (a.k.a. Big3), I'm still debating on 1/0 gauge or 2 gauge.

I am doing the installs. I do not think it would be a good idea for my to try to make my own subwoofer box, first time = learning curve and ****ty product.

What I am really in need of, is a good combination of sound quality and medium dB.
I'm really not trying to pump my **** up SUPER loud.I'm thinking component speakers (since I'm doing the install)

I'd like your guys' input on whether or not I should get single or dual voice coil subs/ one or two 4-ohm amps.
Oh and can someone clarify the sizes of the speakers and whatnot in my car? I don't know if it's 6-1/2 or 6x9 or whateverthehell.

 

The HU all depends on what options you want. With regard to reverse polarity, I was talking about 1 of the front channels, not rear. All you have to do is wire + to - and - to + on 1 of the front channels. This helps the sound stage so you hear a voice from the center of the cabin as opposed to everywhere, yet nowhere. This is because the speakers are near your calf and they fire into the tranny console and the sound doesn't blend properly. I was skeptical also, but I had components, so I experimented with just the woofer and then the whole channel. The whole channel works best.

For economical, good quality speakers that will sound good off of the new HU, I recommend Polk db's. Crutchfield will direct you to the exact models that fit right. 6x9's in the rear and 5.25" in the front. For the front speakers, you will have to cut the back of the stock speaker baskets off with a hacksaw, but that's really no big deal. I also cleaned them up with a table grinder.

On my last gf's car, I installed these speakers along with a JVC-HDR1 headunit and the JVC iPod control. This unit is the cheapest HD radio tha tyou can get and it has a ton of really nice features. I extreme velcro'd the iPod control behind the radio and ground a hole in the upper rear corner of the cubby below for the iPod plug to go through. Mounting was with the stock screws and brackets from the sides of the unit. When all was said and done, the HU replaced the stock one very nicely and her Nano was completely hidden in the cubby with the cover closed. This setup allows iPod control from the HU. Total cost was about $150 (HU), $100 (iPod control), $200 (speakers) = $450

There are lots of opinions on the sub part. IMO, a good setup to go with this system is a dual voice coil 12" in a sealed box. ~300W RMS. Also, a capacitor will help here 0.5-1 Farad is fine.

For my recommendations, you shouldn't need a high output alternator or an upgraded battery. If you need a new battery anyway, I recommend that you go to Sears and look down the list on their computer. It cross referances whatever fits. For an additional $10 I got a battery that is meant for trucks, vans and SUV's, providing much more CCA's.

 

Goodyear just changed my oil and said my stock battery was testing low, so I'm getting a new one. If you checked that link, the kinetik batteries are ridiculously cheap after the instant rebate.
However, what size should I get for my car?
Kinetik's website says that it depends on how many watts I depend on producing or some ****. However, I'm still unclear on one thing: Can I use a single kinetik battery to replace my stock battery? I've only seen people use them as secondary batteries for more advanced sound systems.

Also, where would I place the subwoofers and tweeters?

I've been checking out crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs

Quite strange. I'm trying to get it off the millionbuy website simply because they have a lot of quality products for cheap (i.e. JL Audio)

I'm not getting a high output alternator.

 

you and cx need to learn the difference between front and rear. reread