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Want to upgrade sub and add an amp 2013 accord.

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  #11  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:03 PM
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the next time you are buying wire, save a little money and check out
knukoncpetz.
some of the best wire on the market and it is well priced.

everytime I hear cruthfield I cringe. not that they are not knowledgable or sell good products, because they are and they do. but you pay a premium for them.

and also for future reference, if you ever have a question and dont want someone trying to sell you something you just want honest advice shoot Keep_hope_Alive a message. He is a walking knowledge base of car audio, general audio, car electronics, install info, general electric info, etc. great guy and always willing to share his knowledge.
 
  #12  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:40 AM
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Thanks, yeah I agree. I used there online chat to confirm a few things while researching but did not order from them. Kind of a dick move but they should be a little more competitive in pricing. I called caraudio closeout to confirm the swr they sold was gen 4 and ordered it from them for about $40 less than crutchfield, then I ordered the amp from amazon and save about $20 after shipping. I ordered all supporting parts, deadening, cap, wiring... thru amazon for free shipping with prime.
 

Last edited by Spoolme; 03-01-2013 at 10:51 AM.
  #13  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Spoolme
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACEIV
I didn't see how they removed the rear deck, but it looked like the plastic comes down about 8 inches from the top of the rear seat and there were about 4 screws attaching it. There should be those round screw cover plastic thingies (technical term) to show you where the screws are.

As for the ANC. I used the information contained here about removing the 2 wires (front and back mics) on the drivers side a pillar (by winshield) and that solved the feedback. They forgot to do it so I went 20 feet hear the "whale call" and turned right back around

They did use a plastic spacer (riser) kit for the rear left and right speakers. The factory installed speakers had the riser molded to the speaker.

Let me know if I can help in any other way...

?

Thanks for the tip! I found this ANC thread and this looks like the easiest solution by far.
 
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  #14  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:08 PM
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Thanks @neophyte, I got the kit today when I went home for lunch and the so called 8-gauge power that it came with looks more like 12, lame... So I ordered from your site.



Thank You for placing your order with Knukonceptz.com. A confirmation is being sent to your email address. In the email you will find a receipt for your order along with information on how to check the status of your order.

Thank You for choosing Knukonceptz and we hope to see you again soon.If you would like to contact us about your transaction please contact us by using the information below.

Email: kontact@knukonceptz.com
Phone: (216) 310-6555
 
  #15  
Old 03-01-2013, 12:50 PM
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Hi Spoolme,

Here is the link for the alternative ANC mic disconnection for anyone else...

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ictures-52838/

I looked at both and the "sunglass" solution while the front was going to be real easy, the rear mic was going to be tricky. Didn't want to freak out the installer, so went with this solution (link). It worked. I did end up cutting the two wires, as we were unable to get them out of the white harness easily (broke one). A little electrical tape and no more noise.

Aceiv
 

Last edited by ACEIV; 03-01-2013 at 12:53 PM.
  #16  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:06 PM
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I've also read about a third suggestion that has you remove the trim and parts of the center console and just unplug the anc unit.

How hard was it to remove the a pillar? Did go back easily? Look back to factory?
 
  #17  
Old 03-02-2013, 12:09 PM
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It was really easy...it goes right back on and you can't tell the difference. You can always swing by a Best Buy and ask them to remove it for you (for free), the you can see it and how it goes back on. I would recommend looking at the passenger side pilar to see that it "sits" slightly lower than the dash, to help line up the holes.

Based on the 3 solutions that I looked at on this site, the drivers side pillar one is the easiest and has the least chance for doing any damage.
 
  #18  
Old 05-18-2013, 06:55 PM
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Today I installed a sub- woofer and and a amp and I am having a low bass sound when the car moves. If you open a door, the sound goes off. Any idea how to solve this?
 
  #19  
Old 05-18-2013, 08:08 PM
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ANC mic. There is a sticky on disableing them
 
  #20  
Old 06-29-2013, 09:48 AM
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I have a 2013 Honda Accord LX. To improve the poor sound quality, I thought I'd upgrade the speakers and leave it at that. Bought 2 pairs of JBL GTO638. I had a local stereo shop install/replace the 4 speakers (2 in front door, and 2 behind rear headrest). Since the install, every time the car is started, there are 3 or 4 loud humming/buzzing sounds. Each lasts for about a second or two.

Also, there seems to be some low volume waive hum or buzz that sounds in-sync with the engine rev that's hurting my ears - apparently even when the audio system is powered off, the in-sync hum/buzz sound remains.

Interestingly, the music quality is worse after installing the new speakers. The installer says I need to add an amp to improve sound quality, so I've ordered "Apline MRP-F300 4-Channel 300 Watts Amplifier".

Here are my questions:
1. Any thoughts what is causing the buzz/hum sound when the car is started?

2. Any thoughts on how to get rid of the buzz/hum sound that appears to be in-sync with engine rev?

3. As I await the arrival of the amp, is there anything special I should be aware of before installation?

I'm a complete novice when it comes to stereo systems and how to match up the different pieces, so please keep the suggestions simple. I appreciate your time
 


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