2000 Accord V6 AC/Alt belt tensioner R&R
#1
09-28-2006, 08:58 PM
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
2000 Accord V6 AC/Alt belt tensioner R&R
My friend at work has a 2000 Accord with 3.0 V6. He blew an AC/Alt. belt and I agreed to help him fix it. Once we looked it over we found the tensioner pulley to be locked up. This caused the belt to burn up. He bought the new pulley with bearing installed BUT the bolt is too long and hits the frame rail when removing. We tried to take the entire assembly and change out the pulley then reinstall the assembly. The top bolt is located conveniently behind the dipstick but we were unable to gain access to the bottom bolt. Anybody done this repair and found easy access to the bottom idler assmebly bolt or is there a trick to take out the bolt that holds on the pulley??? Thanks
Brandt
Brandt
#2
09-29-2006, 01:25 AM
Been Around A Long Time Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
Posts: 4,754
RE: 2000 Accord V6 AC/Alt belt tensioner help!!!
i have not done 1 on a accvord but i have done 2 on an odessey,,almost the same
the easiest way i found is to partially remove the fender liner ( splash shield ) to get a closer look ... once out of the way the lower bolt ( 10mm ) is right there real easy to get to.i used a 10mm socket and a long extension ...what you also might want to do is to remove the cranck pulley it will give you more space .to do that you have to also loosen up the p/s belt and slip it over . you already got the dipstick out and removed the upper bolt correct ? and the center 8 mm long bolt will not come out. just take it with the whole assembly once you remove the lower bolt .. and upon reinstalling it DO NOT forget to put the long bolt in the pulley first ,,
the easiest way i found is to partially remove the fender liner ( splash shield ) to get a closer look ... once out of the way the lower bolt ( 10mm ) is right there real easy to get to.i used a 10mm socket and a long extension ...what you also might want to do is to remove the cranck pulley it will give you more space .to do that you have to also loosen up the p/s belt and slip it over . you already got the dipstick out and removed the upper bolt correct ? and the center 8 mm long bolt will not come out. just take it with the whole assembly once you remove the lower bolt .. and upon reinstalling it DO NOT forget to put the long bolt in the pulley first ,,
#4
02-18-2011, 07:10 AM
I have a 2000 Accord V6 2dr EX with 170K.
I know this is an old thread but I thought I might let everyone know that I performed this last night. I looked at the Helm's manual and it did not say anything about removing the crank pulley to take out the accessory belt tensioner. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen p/s belt and remove a/c alt belt
a) for p/s loosen mounting bolt behind p/s pump (12 mm) and loosen 12 mm nut underneath p/s pulley without removing either one.
b) take off top cover against p/s pump over intake by pulling straight up and wiggling it around the high pressure p/s hose
c) loosen 12 mm nut sticking up (deep well socket) and toward the front of the car and p/s pump will loosen upon loosing the nut allowing the belt to come loose
d) use 14 mm wrench (ratchet will not fit, and you may have to combine 2 wrenches to get enough leverage) pushing toward the back of the car on the idler pulley to get the a/c alt belt off
2) remove dipstick (1 10mm bolt hidden below timing cover) directly above the tensioner. This is by far the hardest bolt to put back in. Pull up on dipstick you should now have access to the top tensioner bolt it is a 10 mm
3)remove spash shield
4) you can now see the bottom tensioner bolt remove it (10 mm) I used a deep well 10 mm with a flex handle ratchet.
5) there is one 8 mm center bolt through the tensioner now you must remove (I used a 1/4" ratchet with small 8 mm socket)
6) install in reverse order
Part number for just the pulley : 31180-P8F-A03 ($10)
Part number for tensioner: 31170-P8F-A01 ($75)
One thing that helps is to remove the one 10 mm bolt holding the p/s reserviour on. Also unclip the harness next to the side motor mount. Both with give you much more room and flexibility to manipulate tools in there. You do NOT need to remove the crank pulley, the bottom tensioner bolt is plenty far from the crank pulley. You need to get creative in combining deep well sockets and short well sockets and extensions to do this job. Overall, it took me about 2 hrs to do because there is just not much room down there and there is a lot of 10 mm bolts to get confused on because of the timing cover. I ended up removing 2 extra 10 mm bolts just trying to see what I was doing.
Now, I was able to find just the pulley at the Acura dealer. The Honda dealer did not have it. I tried just replacing the pulley but after getting the new pulley tight on the old tensioner it was not mounted tightly. I ended up replacing the whole tensioner. The Honda dealer told me they never replace just the pulley. The Acura dealer told me it is something they replace frequently and they also stock it. It is up to you. My suggestion would be to replace the whole thing because you have to take the whole thing out in order to change just the pulley. The pulley bolt is too long to remove in the car, it just hits the inside wheel well fender. To get the pulley off, it is REVERSE THREADS. I loosened mine while in the car (pulling toward the front of the car on the pulley bolt). My symptom was a noisy and stiff bearing that I could hear especially when the engine was cold. I also have 170K. I used a stethescope to diagnose where my noise was coming from and replaced the part. Now it is much quieter!
If anyone needs the pulley I probably can get it to you for $10 shipped. I opened it and didn't use it. PM if interested.
I know this is an old thread but I thought I might let everyone know that I performed this last night. I looked at the Helm's manual and it did not say anything about removing the crank pulley to take out the accessory belt tensioner. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen p/s belt and remove a/c alt belt
a) for p/s loosen mounting bolt behind p/s pump (12 mm) and loosen 12 mm nut underneath p/s pulley without removing either one.
b) take off top cover against p/s pump over intake by pulling straight up and wiggling it around the high pressure p/s hose
c) loosen 12 mm nut sticking up (deep well socket) and toward the front of the car and p/s pump will loosen upon loosing the nut allowing the belt to come loose
d) use 14 mm wrench (ratchet will not fit, and you may have to combine 2 wrenches to get enough leverage) pushing toward the back of the car on the idler pulley to get the a/c alt belt off
2) remove dipstick (1 10mm bolt hidden below timing cover) directly above the tensioner. This is by far the hardest bolt to put back in. Pull up on dipstick you should now have access to the top tensioner bolt it is a 10 mm
3)remove spash shield
4) you can now see the bottom tensioner bolt remove it (10 mm) I used a deep well 10 mm with a flex handle ratchet.
5) there is one 8 mm center bolt through the tensioner now you must remove (I used a 1/4" ratchet with small 8 mm socket)
6) install in reverse order
Part number for just the pulley : 31180-P8F-A03 ($10)
Part number for tensioner: 31170-P8F-A01 ($75)
One thing that helps is to remove the one 10 mm bolt holding the p/s reserviour on. Also unclip the harness next to the side motor mount. Both with give you much more room and flexibility to manipulate tools in there. You do NOT need to remove the crank pulley, the bottom tensioner bolt is plenty far from the crank pulley. You need to get creative in combining deep well sockets and short well sockets and extensions to do this job. Overall, it took me about 2 hrs to do because there is just not much room down there and there is a lot of 10 mm bolts to get confused on because of the timing cover. I ended up removing 2 extra 10 mm bolts just trying to see what I was doing.
Now, I was able to find just the pulley at the Acura dealer. The Honda dealer did not have it. I tried just replacing the pulley but after getting the new pulley tight on the old tensioner it was not mounted tightly. I ended up replacing the whole tensioner. The Honda dealer told me they never replace just the pulley. The Acura dealer told me it is something they replace frequently and they also stock it. It is up to you. My suggestion would be to replace the whole thing because you have to take the whole thing out in order to change just the pulley. The pulley bolt is too long to remove in the car, it just hits the inside wheel well fender. To get the pulley off, it is REVERSE THREADS. I loosened mine while in the car (pulling toward the front of the car on the pulley bolt). My symptom was a noisy and stiff bearing that I could hear especially when the engine was cold. I also have 170K. I used a stethescope to diagnose where my noise was coming from and replaced the part. Now it is much quieter!
If anyone needs the pulley I probably can get it to you for $10 shipped. I opened it and didn't use it. PM if interested.
Last edited by stir_fry_boy; 02-18-2011 at 07:54 AM.
#6
02-18-2011, 07:57 AM
Thanks man! Even though I havn't posted a lot, I have done a lot of stuff on Hondas. It always makes me happy when someone puts my explainations in the DIY area. Always happy to help!
#7
03-05-2011, 12:18 AM
Thanks!
Thank you so much for posting this. My crap-tastic Haynes manual didn't have any info and this posting was the only one I found relative to this problem.
One thing I'd like to add (for those living in the road-salted Northeast)- I discovered the Oil Dipstick Tube was frozen after mounting screw removal. Wouldn't budge with vise grips and many mighty two-armed pulls/twists. A little PB Blaster at the base and 5 minutes later, popped right out!
The rest went easy. After removal, belt tensioner bearing was shot and I must've replaced it just in the nick of time. 100 miles ago, belts started squealing loudly and today, man, the belt tensioner bearing was just moaning to be replaced.
Also, for the any other DIY'er out there- make sure you have an extensive socket accessory set. angled sockets, different sized extensions, etc.
1999 Honda Accord EX-V6 Coupe (202,000 miles)...
going across the country tomorrow!
COST:
$60+tax for the belt tensioner assembly
$25+tax for the aftermarket alternator belt (old one started glazing).
(Unfortunately, due to me leaving on a road trip tomorrow- I had to use aftermarket parts
)
One thing I'd like to add (for those living in the road-salted Northeast)- I discovered the Oil Dipstick Tube was frozen after mounting screw removal. Wouldn't budge with vise grips and many mighty two-armed pulls/twists. A little PB Blaster at the base and 5 minutes later, popped right out!
The rest went easy. After removal, belt tensioner bearing was shot and I must've replaced it just in the nick of time. 100 miles ago, belts started squealing loudly and today, man, the belt tensioner bearing was just moaning to be replaced.
Also, for the any other DIY'er out there- make sure you have an extensive socket accessory set. angled sockets, different sized extensions, etc.
1999 Honda Accord EX-V6 Coupe (202,000 miles)...
going across the country tomorrow!
COST:
$60+tax for the belt tensioner assembly
$25+tax for the aftermarket alternator belt (old one started glazing).
(Unfortunately, due to me leaving on a road trip tomorrow- I had to use aftermarket parts
)
#9
09-01-2011, 11:33 AM
Thanks to stirfryboy and others I used this tutorial and it helped me alot getting my daughters car back on the road.
tha gorilla
tha gorilla
#10
02-14-2024, 11:32 AM
Reply to pulley part
I have a 2000 Accord V6 2dr EX with 170K.
I know this is an old thread but I thought I might let everyone know that I performed this last night. I looked at the Helm's manual and it did not say anything about removing the crank pulley to take out the accessory belt tensioner. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen p/s belt and remove a/c alt belt
a) for p/s loosen mounting bolt behind p/s pump (12 mm) and loosen 12 mm nut underneath p/s pulley without removing either one.
b) take off top cover against p/s pump over intake by pulling straight up and wiggling it around the high pressure p/s hose
c) loosen 12 mm nut sticking up (deep well socket) and toward the front of the car and p/s pump will loosen upon loosing the nut allowing the belt to come loose
d) use 14 mm wrench (ratchet will not fit, and you may have to combine 2 wrenches to get enough leverage) pushing toward the back of the car on the idler pulley to get the a/c alt belt off
2) remove dipstick (1 10mm bolt hidden below timing cover) directly above the tensioner. This is by far the hardest bolt to put back in. Pull up on dipstick you should now have access to the top tensioner bolt it is a 10 mm
3)remove spash shield
4) you can now see the bottom tensioner bolt remove it (10 mm) I used a deep well 10 mm with a flex handle ratchet.
5) there is one 8 mm center bolt through the tensioner now you must remove (I used a 1/4" ratchet with small 8 mm socket)
6) install in reverse order
Part number for just the pulley : 31180-P8F-A03 ($10)
Part number for tensioner: 31170-P8F-A01 ($75)
One thing that helps is to remove the one 10 mm bolt holding the p/s reserviour on. Also unclip the harness next to the side motor mount. Both with give you much more room and flexibility to manipulate tools in there. You do NOT need to remove the crank pulley, the bottom tensioner bolt is plenty far from the crank pulley. You need to get creative in combining deep well sockets and short well sockets and extensions to do this job. Overall, it took me about 2 hrs to do because there is just not much room down there and there is a lot of 10 mm bolts to get confused on because of the timing cover. I ended up removing 2 extra 10 mm bolts just trying to see what I was doing.
Now, I was able to find just the pulley at the Acura dealer. The Honda dealer did not have it. I tried just replacing the pulley but after getting the new pulley tight on the old tensioner it was not mounted tightly. I ended up replacing the whole tensioner. The Honda dealer told me they never replace just the pulley. The Acura dealer told me it is something they replace frequently and they also stock it. It is up to you. My suggestion would be to replace the whole thing because you have to take the whole thing out in order to change just the pulley. The pulley bolt is too long to remove in the car, it just hits the inside wheel well fender. To get the pulley off, it is REVERSE THREADS. I loosened mine while in the car (pulling toward the front of the car on the pulley bolt). My symptom was a noisy and stiff bearing that I could hear especially when the engine was cold. I also have 170K. I used a stethescope to diagnose where my noise was coming from and replaced the part. Now it is much quieter!
If anyone needs the pulley I probably can get it to you for $10 shipped. I opened it and didn't use it. PM if interested.
I know this is an old thread but I thought I might let everyone know that I performed this last night. I looked at the Helm's manual and it did not say anything about removing the crank pulley to take out the accessory belt tensioner. Here is the procedure:
1) Loosen p/s belt and remove a/c alt belt
a) for p/s loosen mounting bolt behind p/s pump (12 mm) and loosen 12 mm nut underneath p/s pulley without removing either one.
b) take off top cover against p/s pump over intake by pulling straight up and wiggling it around the high pressure p/s hose
c) loosen 12 mm nut sticking up (deep well socket) and toward the front of the car and p/s pump will loosen upon loosing the nut allowing the belt to come loose
d) use 14 mm wrench (ratchet will not fit, and you may have to combine 2 wrenches to get enough leverage) pushing toward the back of the car on the idler pulley to get the a/c alt belt off
2) remove dipstick (1 10mm bolt hidden below timing cover) directly above the tensioner. This is by far the hardest bolt to put back in. Pull up on dipstick you should now have access to the top tensioner bolt it is a 10 mm
3)remove spash shield
4) you can now see the bottom tensioner bolt remove it (10 mm) I used a deep well 10 mm with a flex handle ratchet.
5) there is one 8 mm center bolt through the tensioner now you must remove (I used a 1/4" ratchet with small 8 mm socket)
6) install in reverse order
Part number for just the pulley : 31180-P8F-A03 ($10)
Part number for tensioner: 31170-P8F-A01 ($75)
One thing that helps is to remove the one 10 mm bolt holding the p/s reserviour on. Also unclip the harness next to the side motor mount. Both with give you much more room and flexibility to manipulate tools in there. You do NOT need to remove the crank pulley, the bottom tensioner bolt is plenty far from the crank pulley. You need to get creative in combining deep well sockets and short well sockets and extensions to do this job. Overall, it took me about 2 hrs to do because there is just not much room down there and there is a lot of 10 mm bolts to get confused on because of the timing cover. I ended up removing 2 extra 10 mm bolts just trying to see what I was doing.
Now, I was able to find just the pulley at the Acura dealer. The Honda dealer did not have it. I tried just replacing the pulley but after getting the new pulley tight on the old tensioner it was not mounted tightly. I ended up replacing the whole tensioner. The Honda dealer told me they never replace just the pulley. The Acura dealer told me it is something they replace frequently and they also stock it. It is up to you. My suggestion would be to replace the whole thing because you have to take the whole thing out in order to change just the pulley. The pulley bolt is too long to remove in the car, it just hits the inside wheel well fender. To get the pulley off, it is REVERSE THREADS. I loosened mine while in the car (pulling toward the front of the car on the pulley bolt). My symptom was a noisy and stiff bearing that I could hear especially when the engine was cold. I also have 170K. I used a stethescope to diagnose where my noise was coming from and replaced the part. Now it is much quieter!
If anyone needs the pulley I probably can get it to you for $10 shipped. I opened it and didn't use it. PM if interested.
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