Replacement key question
#1
Replacement key question
Hi all - new to this site, and it looks like there are a lot of really knowlegable folks here, so I'm hoping someone can help.
I have an '04 Accord LX, and one of my keys broke. As in, the plastic cracked and the metal key fell off. I'd like to replace it, but the dealer is telling me I have to pay a fee, even if its just to get a plain key w/out remote. Does anyone have any experience with this? Shouldn't I just be able to give Honda the VIN and get a key in the mail?
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
I have an '04 Accord LX, and one of my keys broke. As in, the plastic cracked and the metal key fell off. I'd like to replace it, but the dealer is telling me I have to pay a fee, even if its just to get a plain key w/out remote. Does anyone have any experience with this? Shouldn't I just be able to give Honda the VIN and get a key in the mail?
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
#2
Well, whatever you buy, you'll have to pay for it somehow...
The big plastic part contains the remote for locking/unlocking the doors. There's also an RFID chip in there for the immobilizer. If that immobilizer chip is OK, then you can replace the case & lock transmitter, transfer your RFID chip & put it all together with the metal skeleton with the physical key.
Here's a procedure for adding remotes to the system. (Say you bought the plastic shell & lock transmitter from ebay or something lke that.) But this doesn't change the immobilizer.
1) Unlock Doors
2) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
3) Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote
4) Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position (0, I)
5) Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position
6) Press lock or unlock
7) Turn key to off position
8) on position
9) lock or unlock
10) off position
11) on position
12)lock or unlock - doors should cycle to indicate successful programming. If you only have one remote, turn ignition to off or don't touch anything. if you have 2+ remotes, go to 13:
13) lock on each transmitter that you need to program
*Steps 2-12 must be performed within 5 seconds of each other. Step 13 can be performed within 10 seconds of step 12.
The big plastic part contains the remote for locking/unlocking the doors. There's also an RFID chip in there for the immobilizer. If that immobilizer chip is OK, then you can replace the case & lock transmitter, transfer your RFID chip & put it all together with the metal skeleton with the physical key.
Here's a procedure for adding remotes to the system. (Say you bought the plastic shell & lock transmitter from ebay or something lke that.) But this doesn't change the immobilizer.
1) Unlock Doors
2) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
3) Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the remote
4) Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position (0, I)
5) Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position
6) Press lock or unlock
7) Turn key to off position
8) on position
9) lock or unlock
10) off position
11) on position
12)lock or unlock - doors should cycle to indicate successful programming. If you only have one remote, turn ignition to off or don't touch anything. if you have 2+ remotes, go to 13:
13) lock on each transmitter that you need to program
*Steps 2-12 must be performed within 5 seconds of each other. Step 13 can be performed within 10 seconds of step 12.
#4
OK, I finally solved my problem. I took Jim's advice and ordered just a blank key shell from ebay for only $7 including shipping. I transferred the remote and the RF chip from my old shell and took the new key along with my second original key to a locksmith who had the right equipment. He charged me $28 to cut the new key. If anyone is going to do this, please know you need to find the right locksmith with the equipment - standard key cutting machines at the hardware store won't do it. So, for less than $40, I was able to get my key replaced.
What really ticks me off is that the dealer refused to cut my key without charging a $50 "reprogramming" fee. When I explained to the service tech that I had already transferred the RF chip to the new shell, he told me that they'd still have to reprogram the key as there is a second chip in the metal of the key itself! What complete BS! Plus, I'd have to make an appointment to bring my car in to the dealer.
Not to go on a complete rant, but this was the same dealership where my wife was told by a salesman that haggling over the price of a car was "bad karma"! No wonder dealerships have such poor reputations. It just reinforces my desire to work around them whenever possible.
What really ticks me off is that the dealer refused to cut my key without charging a $50 "reprogramming" fee. When I explained to the service tech that I had already transferred the RF chip to the new shell, he told me that they'd still have to reprogram the key as there is a second chip in the metal of the key itself! What complete BS! Plus, I'd have to make an appointment to bring my car in to the dealer.
Not to go on a complete rant, but this was the same dealership where my wife was told by a salesman that haggling over the price of a car was "bad karma"! No wonder dealerships have such poor reputations. It just reinforces my desire to work around them whenever possible.
#8
A 2004 Accord Immobilizer system is different than your 2000 Accord Immobilizer system (based on your other post about your car), the 2004 Accord immobilizer chip cannot be done at Lowes.
#10
For your 2004 Accord, see this thread and link:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...lip-key-37808/
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...lip-key-37808/
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