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2003-2007 HVAC Blower Transistor Repair

  #11  
Old 07-05-2012, 02:28 PM
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kansas City, MO
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MegaBite, The replacement thermal fuse you are looking for should be close to the same temperature rating as the original one. The job of the fuse is to open up the circuit if the temperature gets too high and helps to prevent fires. This device is not the same as a regular fuse used in automotive circuits, the primary purpose is heat protection, not over current protection. The 2A current rating has more to do with the amount of current the internal contacts can safely carry. I wouldn't be very concerned about the difference between AC and DC current for this application. Any device with a rating of 2A or more should work as a replacement.
This ebay part should get the job done nicely. Thermal Fuse 142℃ TF Cut-off 250V 10A Diameter 4.2mm 5 Pcs $4.74
My 2 worth.
 
  #12  
Old 07-05-2012, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bent_rod View Post
MegaBite, The replacement thermal fuse you are looking for should be close to the same temperature rating as the original one. The job of the fuse is to open up the circuit if the temperature gets too high and helps to prevent fires. This device is not the same as a regular fuse used in automotive circuits, the primary purpose is heat protection, not over current protection. The 2A current rating has more to do with the amount of current the internal contacts can safely carry. I wouldn't be very concerned about the difference between AC and DC current for this application. Any device with a rating of 2A or more should work as a replacement.
This ebay part should get the job done nicely. Thermal Fuse 142℃ TF Cut-off 250V 10A Diameter 4.2mm 5 Pcs $4.74
My 2 worth.
Nice technical info.

Welcome to the forum.
 
  #13  
Old 04-13-2013, 02:23 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Thumbs up 2003 Honda Accord - Issue resolved

I just wanted to say thank to whomever created the original resolution and photos for this fix and to the person who re-posted it. Good job guys, saved me some bucks and now I have a/c again for the upcoming Houston sauna!
 
  #14  
Old 04-14-2013, 06:37 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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I am not a mechanic, but very mechanically capable of following directions on this and other threads. I have fixed the problem, with help from this forum, and instead of walking away, I wanted to add a couple of things that may help others alleviate their frustration when faced with the same problem and symptoms.
First of all, based on testing instructions from this forum, I eliminated the blower motor, fuses, and relays as being the source of the problem. Everything pointed to the resistor / transistor as being the problem. I have a 4 door 2003 Accord, so as one of the threads pointed out, I tested across the terminals for a 4 door and got 1500 ohms, which meant that part of the resistor / transistor was good. I even took it to O'Reilly and compared it to a new one, with the same results. I also jumped across 2 terminals on the connector to the R /T like one of the threads said to do, and the blower worked. I was sure it was the R / T, so I purchased a new one, popped it in, and nothing. At the store, I noticed that the box that the R / T came in looked used, and the unit was not sealed in plastic. I mentioned this to the salesman, but didn't pursue it any further.
After another week of reading forums and investigation, still thinking I had a bad R / T, I decided to go back to O'Reilly and ask to try another unit. They still had the unit I tried the week before and when I asked to see another one, it came sealed in bubble wrap. My suspicions were correct. Some idiot returned their old defective unit and it was put back on the shelf.
The bottom line is to be sure that the unit appears to be new and is sealed. The repair described in this forum is to replace the TCO or temperature cut off. This goes bad due to high heat, which can be a result of the purpose of this post, which is to make everyone aware of the in cabin filter, which is located behind the glove box. Mine was terrible, which leaves not doubt in my mind, contributed to the failure of the TCO. The T / R has a heat sink on it, that sits in the duct work of the heating / cooling system. The air that runs across the heat sink, helps to cool the R / T. Because my filter was so clogged up, very little air was traveling across the heat sink, thus causing the failure.
I'm sorry this is so long, but I wanted everyone to know, that when they do finish the repair, change the filter at the same time.
 
  #15  
Old 04-14-2013, 06:42 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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BTW Thank You to all of the people that posted testing procedures on this and other threads. I went ahead and spent the $69 for the Resistor / Transistor and the $21 for the in cabin filter, but I still might repair/replace the old unit with the instructions from this forum.
 
  #16  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:16 PM
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See following post:

Rear blower Transistor Fix - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums

It's same part.

Note insulating the legs of the thermal fuse is tricky. w/o insulation you may get a short and system won't protect correctly.

good luck
 
  #17  
Old 04-21-2013, 03:17 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1
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Hey guys!! I totally feel your pain!! I have a 2004 accord & have been riding in this yucky south louisiana heat for a year & a half. Everyone kept telling me something different about what was wrong with it! Well last night, a friend & I stumbled across this forum & did what you guys said. Tested the parts. Wasn't the blower motor, we hoped anyway. We went with the resistor first bc it was the least expensive fix. Went to RADIO SHACK & purchased a pack of 6, 1 1/2 ohm resistors--for only $1.62(including tax!)!! Came back & saudered a new one on the transistor.....BAM!!! My AIR CONDITIONER WORKS NOW!! I can't believe I've been miserable for a year & a half over something that cost only $0.27!! Thank u thank u thank all of u! For all your help, advice, hints, tips, pictures, etc!! Hope y'all have a nice & cool day!! Bc I finally will!
 

Last edited by JaimeT723; 04-21-2013 at 03:19 PM.
  #18  
Old 04-21-2013, 04:15 PM
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I'm glad you were able to repair, however I think the part you replaced w/ a resistor is a thermal fuse. If yours had a fuse, it is different from the one I repaired on Acura MDX.

Fuse is designed to open when temp reaches 50-60C (not sure). W/O that component, you could potentially overheat the transistor and have a fire. I wanted you to be aware of the increased risk.

good luck
 
  #19  
Old 09-07-2013, 07:05 PM
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 1
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I had a similar problem with my civic ex. The ac light and condenser fan turns on but the inner blower doesn't. I jumped the thermal fuse as I read in one of your forums and shazaam! instant ac. Thanks again for saving the the duckets!
 
  #20  
Old 06-22-2015, 08:06 PM
Join Date: Apr 2013
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This method of repair for the blower resistor module on a Honda Accord, 4 door, LX (mine is a 2005) worked like a CHARM !

Getting the module out was easy. Disassembling it was relatively easy. I had some trouble "de-soldering" all 5 points on the circuit board, so I just de-soldered the bad thermal fuse and carefully bent the board back. Gained access to the middle screw that attaches to the heat sink. Put a new thermal fuse in. I used a Radio Shack 270-1322 which is a 129deg C 250VAC 10a. I couldn't find a 114deg C fuse, so I opted for this one. Seems to work so far. I also changed my cabin filter while I was at it. I have 242K on my 2005 Accord 4 cyl 5 speed manual LX, and I'm still on the same clutch! I am so fortunate to have this car!
 

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