Do-It-Yourself Section This section is for requests for DIY help, not for general technical advice.

Carpet removal for tinting or painting Part 1

  #1  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:01 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 43
Default Carpet removal for tinting or painting Part 1

DIY Carpet removal for Staining
1997 Honda Accord 4 door EX

Tools Required:
1. Socket Wrench
# 14 for Seats & Seat Belt
# 10 for rear bench
2. Star screw driver for dead pedal/center console
3. Flat screw driver popping of plastic covers
4. Alan Key (no clue what size) For the dead pedal
5. A bucket, a single spray bottle, gloves and a funnel


Here are some before pictures.




Before getting started, keep in mind that organization is crucial. Keep all your screws and parts in place. If you start throwing things around, you will have a hell of a time putting it all back together.



Lets get started.
Always disconnect your battery when working on the vehicle, always play safe.
Grab your flat screw driver and start popping off the plastic covers that are hiding your 4 bolts of each front seat. Be gentle, dig in under the cap and pop it the opposite direction.



With your number 14 socket, you will be able to remove all 4 bolts. (this is passenger side.


Exact same process for the driver side EXCEPT before pulling out the seat MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG THE WIRE HARNESS UNDER THE SEAT.



Moving onto the center console.
Lift up the arm rest and in there you will see a small panel on the surface, pop it up with you flat head and you will spot 2 screws.



Remove your cup holder and find a few more screws.


Gently lift pull towards you and over the E Brake. You do not have to remove the E Brake boot.


Now once that is off, you will spot 2 more screws at the bottom of your center bezel.


Pull out your ashtray and find another screw.


NOW before pulling out your BEZEL, be sure to unplug all your wire harness from behind. 1 for the 4 way, one for the clock, and the computer scanner. Including the cigarette lighter and little bulbs. Once pulled off, you will spot more screws, look in the corners.


Remove your glove box which is 2 screw one on each side directly under the glove box. Also remove your panel under your steering wheel, it is only clipped in, so gently pull it off. You wil see how you have a few more screw to undo before pulling out your console.
Glove box side


Steering wheel side.

Gently remove, NEVER FORCE, IF YOU FEEL RESTRAINT IT IS BECAUSE YOU FORGOT A SCREW!!!
 

Last edited by diceallion; 08-04-2010 at 10:10 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-04-2010, 10:12 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 43
Default continuation...

Now with you Alan Key, remove your dead pedal.


Move on to the seat belt, you only need to unscrew the bottom bolt. With the flat head just pop off the cover and your #14 socket will do the rest. Repeat for both sides.


For the back bench. Procedures are identical for both sides. Lower your back rest then you want to remove the corner padding, a little tricky, lift and pull, but not to move from the bench just to free the upper corner it is clipped in.


Now, hard to explain and hard to get to, with your #10 socket, in between the seat and the corner padding shove your hand in and gain some space to slip in the tool to unscrew the bolt. This will free up the corner pads.


Once you get the padding out you gain access to the brackets holding the back rest.


Which gives you access to the seat brackets. ONLY 1 bolt to undo.


Lift gently and pull forward towards the front. That’s it.



All that is left to do now is remove the side steps, front and back (only clipped, gently pull off) the panel over your trunk and gas door release. The bottom portion of your seat belt panels and the two corner covers in the front, 1 in each corner. The carpet requires 1 incision behind the front consol, just above the gas pedal right corner. The carpet is one piece so you need the cut to take it out. Start pulling it up and you will come across a few plastic clips that the carpet is pressed down with.


I was VERY lucky to have a floor still in great shape. I was counting on it LOL. So I sprayed a Rubberized asphalt sealer to maintain the life and prevent any possible rust.







As far as dying goes, each dye product has its own instructions. I used DYLON fabric dye. The procedure took 4 days, and that is solely due to the drying process. Once you have your batch of dye ready in the bucket, you will use the funnel to pour it into a spray bottle. Start spraying your carpet. It is crucial that you let the dye soak in for at least a day between coats (I did 3 coats). After letting the dye work you must rinse it with water and immediately shop vac it. This removes any loose dye in the fabric.





Be sure that the carpet is DRY before putting it back into your car. You do not want to have mildew issues.
Last Coat.


Well on the LAST day... Day of reassembly, I REALLY was not satisfied with the results of the DYE!!! So I officially considered all my hard work as a “primer job” preparation for Dupli Color Fabric spray paint. Look at the difference. Notice specifically the trim around the edges with the fabric paint and the center where you still see the DYE job.



The finish....





Reassembly

Do everything in the reverse order. So whatever you took out last you put in first.
 
  #3  
Old 08-30-2010, 06:25 AM
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florence, NKY
Posts: 6
Default

nice job man... if i had the time... i might... i will be either replacing or painting the carpet too

sorry the dye didnt work like you had planned
 

Last edited by Fate; 08-30-2010 at 06:28 AM.
  #4  
Old 08-30-2010, 05:02 PM
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 10
Default

nice job, i was into all of this yesterday when i cloeaned my carpet, i didnt dye it though
 
  #5  
Old 08-31-2010, 05:04 PM
keep_hope_alive's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Quad Cities, IL
Posts: 3,206
Default

thanks for the heads up on dye vs. paint. i can remove my carpet in about 40 minutes (after doing it several times for running audio wires).

when running wires under the carpet - avoid routing wires along the side trim or those panels won't fit perfect and you can damage the wire. i like routing signal cables down the middle along the transmission hump. power wire routes nicely along the floor. be sure to secure the wire along the way - i find aluminum foil tape works great for this.

the process is very similar for the 6th gen accords as well, still using #10 and #14 bolts. The center console is a bit different, but similar. i should make a similar DIY thread the next time i disassemble the car (soon).

FYI - once your carpet is up, if you want to reduce road noise, consider some sound deadening (Raammat or Second Skin or Dynamat) then a layer of foam (closed cell) then a layer of mass loaded vinyl (MLV). 60-80 sq. ft. should cover a typical sedan floor, but you'll be buying the MLV in 90 sq. ft. rolls.

nice work.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
o3transaccorder
Canada, Over Seas & Elsewhere
5
06-19-2010 07:37 PM
EkliptStudios
Appearance
2
05-12-2007 10:49 AM
jame721
Appearance
1
04-11-2007 11:49 AM
Platinumxx80
Appearance
7
02-22-2006 01:18 PM
razorbackaaron
General Tech Help
3
07-07-2005 04:26 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Carpet removal for tinting or painting Part 1


Advertising

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.