If you hear a clicking noise on turns , most likely you got a bad outer cv joint,,..

Joints go bad if the rubber boot protecting it , has been torn open , thus all the grease has been lost and water, dirt, dust get into the bearings,

Different year Accords require different tools

For the 86-89 accords

Tools needed : ( the reason to use impact is that , it is a lot stronger than chrome socket ) . 32 mm impact socket, 17 mm 1/2 inch socket. punch,

lug nut tool, ( should come with car ) or just get a 19mm 1/2 inch socket, side cutter, 17 mm wrench, 1/2 long pry bar,extension pipe ,flat tip big screwdriver, medium size cutter pin, big hammer, Oh and the heaviest , biggest person you can find :-) ..floor jack and jack stands,,wd-40..or any penetrating lubricant in case of rusty nuts, bolts, etc etc.

For the 90 and newer Accords, you need a 36 mm impact socket instead on the 32 mm

parts needed : new axle,( Do not get a Honda axle way way too much money,, you can get one for around 60-75 dollars at Autozone, Checker, etc etc,) possibly trany fluid, you might loose some ,, Honda fluid ATF-Z1 if auto,,, 10w-30 motor oil if manual ,

First off, make sure you get the right part, auto and manual tranny require different axles, as does a car with ABS and no ABS,
You can install an ABS axle in a NON-ABS car but you cannot install a NON-ABS axle into a ABS car, if you do the ABS lite will stay on, and of course get the right side ( left- right)

Now we are ready to get the hands dirty.
If car has the big wheel covers with the plastic rings on the lug nuts,,( dx-lx)
remove 2 lug nuts, remove the plastic rings from the lug nuts, reinstall the lug nuts, remove the other 2 lug nuts, now the wheel cover should come out, reinstall the other 2 lug nuts , so all 4 lug nuts are back on and tight,
Make sure car is in park ( auto ) or in gear ( manual ) , E-brake engaged,

You now need to loosen up the axle nut, use the 32 or 36 mm socket ( depends on the year), get the pry bar and the extension pipe,Remember i asked you to get the biggest friend you got ??? Have him ( her ) step on the pipe and loosen up the nut ( counterclockwise),Once nut is loose, jack the car up, set car on jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, remove the cutter pin on the lower control arm ball joint, loosen but do not totally remove 17 mm castle nut,the reason being, that you are going to hit the control arm to separate the ball joint, and if you miss you could ruin the threads on the ball joint ..so hit the control arm till ball joints separates, once done, lift the knuckle assemly up, to separate from lower control arm, tap on the axle to separate from hub assembly, once separated, swing the knuckle so it is out of the way,

On accords up to 89, you need to remove the lower bolt for the fork , that conect the strut to control arm, get the 17 mm socket and 17 mm wrench and remove the bolt,swing the fork over so axle can be removed, you need tp pry down on control arm , get the screwdriver and pry axle out of the tranny ,,

For the 90 and newer accords the axle will slide out throught the fork, so there is no need to remove the lower bolt, The only way it will not slide out , is if you have non honda struts, Some Non honda struts are a bit longer and it will restrict the axle from sliding out ..
In most cases you will not loose any tranny fluid, but have some at hand just in case you have to top off the tranny

To install new axle, make sure the retainer clip is there, where it goes into the tranny , fit axle into the tranny and make sure axle pops all the way in,,tap on it gently with hammer if needed ,,, reinstall everything in reverse order,,....Make sure to stake the axle nut with a punch once it is tight,,

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It'd be nice to have pics. I'm going to do this soon and I might make a picture detailed DIY of the process.

 

Sure, if you take pictures post em in here. Maybe Desert can edit/insert them into his instructions if the pictures relate to a certain part of his post.

 

having a tough time getting the lower control arm to seperate from the knuckle assembly...smacking the control arm every which way with a hammer but to no avail. Any tips?

 

Do a google search for:
ISY8bGof3bQ

Watch the resulting youtube video. I haven't tried it yet, but will in the near future. If you do try it, please post your results.

 

I don't have a craftsman ratchet, but have tried this w/ other devices w/o success. I think I was doing it wrong; installing and lifting, rather than lifting, installing, and lowering. I can see how that would make a big difference. You're using the coil spring force to break the BJ.

I use a "ball joint lifter" tool. Available from many sites for < $25. Tighten up and rap the lower arm w/ 3-lb hammer and they will break. I had to grind the opening larger to fit MDX and Acura TL ball joints but it still worked.

Mine is one of the cheaper models, and a higher quality unit may perform even better. I've had some problems w/ bolt threads gradually binding (soft metal bolt). Still it continues to do the job.

good luck

 

At first I did not understand that video at all. Then I finally got it. Here's what I think is happening.

1. Put the car on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Completely remove the ball joint nut.
4. Put a jack under the control arm and raise the control arm until a substantial gap opens up between the knuckle and lower control arm.
5. Slide a metal object in between the knuckle and lower control arm that fits snugly in the enlarged opening.
6. Lower and remove the jack and get it out of the way. The control arm will now not go down as far as it previously did because the metal object prevents this. This not only creates an irresistable "nut-cracker" squeezing force on the metal object. Importantly, it also creates a spreading force between the control arm and knuckle.
7. Quickly push downward on any part of the knuckle, rotor, etc, and the lower arm should pop off the ball joint shaft.

The one and only down side I can see to this procedure is that the ball joint may possibly be damaged because the ball is also being pulled out of its socket. But this also happens with any removal device (pickle fork, etc.) that tries to spread the knuckle from the control arm. The only tool that can prevent this is one that pushes up on the end of the threaded part of the shaft of the ball joint while holding fast the control arm. However, I have read that even these tools can collapse the threads and make re-installing the nut impossible. But if you're going to replace the ball joint, any method that works is a good method.

 

I've always been able to use a 2-jaw gear puller on the Hondas, since the stud points away from the axle leaving enough room.

 

I just want to thank you all very much!! I have to do this to my first honda ever. I am 41 and just bought a little 88 accord lxi, and all though I took a couple of years of shop in high school, I never really worked on any cars since. Now with the economy, I am doing it all myself. Thank God for the net. I have changed my HP Power Steering Hose, oil, and plugs in the last week. Now I have to fix my exhaust, and the drivers side axle, clutch, and track down 2 or 3 oil or tranny leaks.

Again, thanks for all your help, and I'll be learning from you again real soon!!

 

What about topping of the transmission fluid, must you use Honda fluid or can you use DextronIII?