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2000 Accord 2.3 Fuel Pump won't run

  #1  
Old 03-28-2014, 07:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Memphis
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Default 2000 Accord 2.3 Fuel Pump won't run

Need some help. I have a 2000 Accord LX 2.3 and the fuel pump will not run.

I have done multiple troubleshooting tests.
The battery is new and all fuses are fine.
I removed and tested the PGM Main relay and it is normal.
I performed a Voltage Drop Test across the Fuel pump canon plug. The voltage drop was about .15-.2 across the positive side and .02 across the negative side.
I get battery voltage at the 5-pin wiring canon plug for two seconds when the ignition is turned on, then it drops to 0 like it should.
When I hook up battery voltage directly to the fuel pump leads in the trunk, it runs normally as evidenced by the whirring sound from the fuel pump. After I run the pump for 5-10 seconds, I put the canon plug back in place and start the car. The car starts immediately and runs for about 3 seconds before being starved of fuel and shuts down.

I have not changed the canon plug yet. I cannot figure out how I have battery voltage at the cannon plug, but when I plug the male plug into the female canon plug on top exterior of the fuel pump, the fuel pump will not run. I attempted to clean the leads inside the canon plug as best I could. I have not yet pulled the fuel pump b/c it runs normally when hook up battery voltage directly to the exposed leads on the fuel pump canon plug. It seems the problem is external to the fuel pump since it runs normally.

Any help or suggestions anyone can provide would be appreciated. Just trying to figure out what to check next before I get into wiring. Thanks again.
 
  #2  
Old 03-29-2014, 07:21 AM
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Welcome to HAF. I see you are in Memphis, I lived there for a long time before moving to NC - What part of Memphis do you live in?

Anyway, I hate electrical......Did you test the "inputs" to the main relay or did you bench test it.
 

Last edited by poorman212; 03-29-2014 at 09:44 AM.
  #3  
Old 03-29-2014, 08:34 AM
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Location: Memphis
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I am in the Navy and I work in Millington and live in Bartlett, on the edge where Lakeland, Barlett and Arlington meet.

Thanks for the reply. I did both. I tested the inputs to the main relay while it was installed. I then tested the main relay canon plugs with the main relay removed. Then I bench tested the main relay with a voltmeter and a battery. All tested normal. I originally thought part of the main relay was bad but I bench tested it and it checked normally. It just has me bewildered since everything seems to test just fine.
 
  #4  
Old 03-29-2014, 09:43 AM
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Yea, I know that part of town pretty well.

To give you an idea of how old I am.....I can remember when Covington Pike and Germantown Road were two lane roads ....heck there wasn't even a ramp from I40 to Germantown Road.

OK, back to the dang car. I already stated I hate electrical.

Is there any background to this or all of the sudden one day it acted up? What is the "green key light" in the dash doing?

You are getting the "priming voltage" but not the "start/run" voltage to the pump - why?
Pull the wire connector from the main relay, with the key in the "start" position - what is the voltage on the #2 pin (BLU/ORN) on the wire side?
 
  #5  
Old 03-29-2014, 02:47 PM
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Location: Memphis
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So I pulled the tape off the wires in the trunk leading to the cannon plug in the top of the. I separated all the wires and felt for cracks or anything else that might indicate a short or a ground. I could not find anything. I put the cannon plug back in place and the fuel pump ran immediately when I turned the ignition back on. Car started fine and ran great. I put everything back together and put some small zip ties on the wire bundles. I honestly do not know what the real problem was but it took nearly two weeks to figure it out. I will let you know if I run into some more issues but for now the car has "healed" itself. I hope it stays that way. Thanks again for your help.
 
  #6  
Old 03-31-2014, 02:18 PM
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Keep those wiring bundles in your mind for when it messes up again.

Long time ago (not even a Honda) I had some flaky wiring issues. Turned out the stranded wire inside the rubber insulation was getting corroded. It would either make contact or not, just by flexing the wires.

I'm just guessing here, so take this with a grain of salt. You may have fixtured the wires into a position where they make contact, but a proper fix might be splicing some good wire into those connectors??
 
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