I dont think there much aftermarket suport like there is for the h22...

 

Well all external H22 parts will work, but most internal parts wont.

As far as buying F20b parts, good luck. The engine was never available in America so factory replacement parts aren't exactly something your local dealership can get you. For rod bearings, it uses B series, valves are F22 size, but the headgasket is the fun part. There is no head gasket the same as the F20b, so it either has to be custom made or ordered from japan, new zealand, Singapore etc.

 

Hey rice dose the f20 and the h22 share the same intake manifold?...and are the port patterns the same as the h22?? Same sized TB and everything?...school me plz...lol( I may do a boosted f20 than the g22 and swap my h22 head on the f20 block then resell the f20 head....but still donno more research is due thenlol)
Sorry to thread jack you vett king but I dont feel like makin a new thread..lol

 

Yeah intake manifolds and throttle bodies are the same.

The F20B has 11:1 compression stock, so it can't really handle much boost(I'm going to do a 55shot of nitrous on mine).

And the F20B cams are just about the best cams you can get in a H/F series engine, better than H22 type S, so I would keep those and use them in the H22 head if thats your plan.

 

man that totally slipped my mind about the c/r I knew it was high but didn’t even think of it when I posted.... ok back to the g22 idea then...cus if I get a low mileage f20 there is no way I’m gonna work he bottom end when it has such low mileage I don’t see the point to fix something that anit broke and I know the f20s aren’t all the cheap...uhhhhgg back to the drawing board

 

650 for an F20 doesn't seem all that bad, shipping adds a couple of hundred, but still lots of engine that bolts right up for lots less than building one. Also B18 ecu is easy to find, dyno tune shouldn't cost more than about 180. A friend of mine once pointed out that lots of fairly simple setups ( he was talking about V8 hop ups in the 80's, but it still applies) end up being much more effective on the street than all out, overpowered setups that break the car, or just too wild to drive effectively. If you want to build a race car, its going to cost a ton of money. If you want to go fast, use a strong engine in a light car, tune for street driving. Sorry, I'm old and ramble, but I'm driving a cheap car that really hauls butt.

 

since a 97 accord has an f22 wouldn't putting a smaller k20 be idiotic? Even if it is dohc i-vtec? Opinions anyone?

 

F22 is a standard passenger car engine...140 or 145 hp. F20B is 190, I believe K20 is 197. Everything about a K20 or F20B or H22 is setup for performance. They have different crank and main bearing setups, the heads and cams are also very different, if you haven't experienced one, perhaps you should check one out

 

I bought a k20 last week and have been doing some reading and is a lot of work. And the difference in hp isn't much different between h series and k. Would it be worth it to pay the extra 1400 bucks to put a k in our just play it safe and put an h22 in my accord?

 

Seeing its a K20 and not a K24 I wouldn't spend the money, and it will end up costing you a lot more than $1400 to install it.

Just a quick off the top of my end price list
ECU with Kpro $1000
Engine mounts $400
Axles $300
Wiring harness converted $300
Transmission $400-1000 depending on 5 or 6 spd


The K does have a lot more upgrade potential, but a k20 does not have the torque that heavy accords need.

I would say boost your F22, will make way more power than an h22 for about the same cost.