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No start, no crank, no key light

  #1  
Old 01-30-2018, 12:39 AM
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Default No start, no crank, no key light

I replaced the vtec engine on a 2002 Accord Ex, 4cyl, (jdm engine). Trying to started and get no cranking, no fuel pump, no green key on dash, also no check engine light. The starter has been verified to crank the engine when the solenoid lead is jumpered to the starter power connection. Because there was no green key light when the key is turned on, and I cannot hear a fuel pump, I suspected the main relay. Also, when the main relay is unplugged, the car can then be cranked over (still no fuel). I figured there was a failure in the main relay since having it plugged in prevented cranking, and normally cranking should not be affected by a bad main (fuel) relay. I put in a new relay and there was no change. So now it only cranks with the relay unplugged, there is no fuel pump running, and there is no green key on startup. I do not yet know if spark is affected. Of course checked fuses for fuel pump, start circuit, and others under hood and in door access panel. Appreciate any insight.
ghibbs
2002 Accord Ex 4cyl Automatic
 
  #2  
Old 01-30-2018, 02:41 PM
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It appears the MFR could interrupt the start signal if the blu/org wire is shorted ground, however this should immediately blow fuse 13 (7.5A drivers fuse box).

Immobilizer light is fed by fuse 13 in PAX fuse box.

Suggest removing fuse 13 of drivers fuse box and see if starter will turn over w/ MFR in place. If yes, the a wiring fault in blu/org wire is likely.

Immobilizer controls the fuel pump circuit, not the start or ignition circuit.

See attached wiring diagrams.

good luck
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
File Type: pdf
Accord98-02_StartCircuit.pdf (157.2 KB, 35 views)
  #3  
Old 01-30-2018, 07:28 PM
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Default No start, no crank, no key light

I pulled the no 13 fuse and there was no change to turning key. I see your diagram has a starter cut relay, but I cannot find such a relay in this car. Where am I missing it?

Thanks
ghibbs
02 Accord EX 4 cyl automatic
 
  #4  
Old 01-30-2018, 09:42 PM
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I just measured the voltage at the solenoid during a start attempt and it measured only 7.5 volts. This is with the main relay installed, Is the starter cut relay on the back of the drivers side fuse panel? I need to see if it is a problem.
 
  #5  
Old 01-31-2018, 09:52 AM
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Starter-cut relay is on back side of drivers fuse panel. See attached diagram.
You may have to release fuse panel from body to access relay.

Was 7.5 v measured on blk/wht wire at the solenoid?

good luck
 
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2018, 10:25 AM
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Default No start, no crank, no key light

Yes, at the solenoid.
 
  #7  
Old 01-31-2018, 02:54 PM
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If you got 7.5 v w / MFR removed or Fuse 13 (drivers fuse panel) removed, the starter cut relay or wiring fault is indicated.

good luck
 
  #8  
Old 02-01-2018, 11:47 PM
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Fixed! Thank you TexasHonda for the help you provided.If you run across this again, it is worth mentioning. I went back under the car, and found a grounding cable which was part of the wire harness was not connected. After connecting the ground. all the symptoms disappeared. The key light and check engine light came on when the key was turned to run position, and the shifter could now move, and the shift position lights came on, the fuel pump ran and the car started up without trouble. The key thing to remember about my problem is this was an engine replacement, so all wires and sensors were disconnected, and then hopefully reconnected. For most car problems, these things are undisturbed, so therefore not a part of the problem.

My grandson was helping put things together and recalled that he didn't think connecting the ground would be important-he is hearing about it from me.

Thanks again,
Gil
 
  #9  
Old 02-02-2018, 07:44 AM
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Actually, ground problems can cause some of the most confusing things going on. And not only during engine replacements. Ground connections that are buried or otherwise not obvious to see, can get corroded over time & cause very confusing issues.

I once had a ground wire that broke INSIDE the rubber insulation. The end connection looked good, but the wire was actually broken in the middle. Visual inspection was worthless - found it by systematic testing with a multi-meter.
 
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