Back in the day that was probably wise, however, modern oil forumlations allow 0W-30 and 5W-30 oils tolerate the heat as well as (and often better due to the higher quality base stocks) 10W-30 without shearing down a grade. The flip side is that the lower the first number, the faster your engine gets lubricated, even when the temperatures are north of one-hundred degrees. Said another way, there is no way I'll ever willingly use 10W-30 oil in any car I own, and I seriously doubt I'll ever use 5W-30 again either.

 

Ill change it anyways its only 3 bucks but could the vtec solenoid valve cause oil consumption too? Or the EGR?

 

To the best of my knowledge, the VTEC solenoid and the EGR cannot cause oil consumption issues.

 

Changed fram pcv valve from autozone im going to wait 500-1000 miles and see how it goes.

 

Cool, keep us posted.

 

Will do and also my car could use a valve adjustment too im gona see how much it is id do it myself but i dont have the right tools.

 

The "W" in oil weights stands for "Winter." In the summer, it means basically nothing. So 10W30 is 10 weight in warm weather, 30 in cold. In the past, it has been common practice to change a vehicle to a slightly heavier viscocity after 100K miles. Many of the High Mileage Vehicle oils are recommended use for engines over 75K. 75 is a little early to me. The newer Honda vehicles do use a thinner oil though, as tolerances are much finer these days.

As for burning oil, ALL internal combustion engines burn oil. It is in their nature. The worse the amount of oil consumption, typically shows the longer the intervals between oil changes the car has experienced over it's lifetime. I've seen folks use the Change Oil light in a Suburban, and by 80K miles they are buring a quart or two between changes. I've seen guys who are religous about changing the oil at 3k miles have 200K miles and not burn a drop between changes.

Being a 4 cylinder 1998 model, I'd think 1030 will be fine. A little thicker later in life never hurt an engine.

And I say that with confidence, as I've been turning wrenches for almost 20 years now professionally.

 

The thing is, the ONLY time 10W-30 is "thicker" than 5W-30 (or 0W-30 for that matter) is when the oil is "cold" (i.e. not up to operating temperature), and that is exactly when you don't want it to be thicker. Why? Because the thicker the oil is following a cold start, the longer it takes to reach and start protecting the furthest reaches of the engine.

To restate; with modern oil technology running in a piston engine, 0W-30 is always better than 5W-30 which is always better than 10W-30, even if you're living in Arizona this week.

 

Have you checked carefully for leaks?

Inspect the inside of intake air duct downstream of where PCV air leaves intake duct for valve cover. If it's covered w/ oil, you've confirmed PCV was problem, or engine blowby is enough to cause frequent reverse flow and oil consumption.

good luck

 

I fully see your point. However, that isn't how the manufacturer sees it. If they say run 530, and you go around running 0/20 and have an issue, I have no doubt that they'd can your warranty as such. There is a thing as "too thin" with oil.

But again, I see your point. My wifes 6.1L HEMI runs 0/40 and to me, that's way to thin for a huge american V8