03 Accord EX 2.4 AC not cooling
#1
03 Accord EX 2.4 AC not cooling
Hi folks, I'm new here. Got a quick question about the AC on my 03 Accord w/167,000 miles. The AC stopped blowing cold air today. I know very little about AC's & I'm hoping its just freon. But, before I take it anywhere, I want to check with some knowledgeable folks about it. I'm somewhat technically minded and would like any advice on things I could check out for myself.
Thanks in advance for the advice!
Joel
Thanks in advance for the advice!
Joel
#2
If the refrigerant leaked out, then you need to find & fix the leak. Then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump before refilling it.
But don't jump to conclusions without measuring pressures. It could be a wiring problem? Or a bad clutch on the compressor?
There's a few other people around here who are more expert on AC system than me. Lets see if they chime in.
But don't jump to conclusions without measuring pressures. It could be a wiring problem? Or a bad clutch on the compressor?
There's a few other people around here who are more expert on AC system than me. Lets see if they chime in.
#4
If you go to the DIY section, there is thread called HVAC codes you can try.
You won't see a/c refrigerant, because when it is under pressure in the a/c system, the refrigerant is a liquid. When it is open to air, it is a gas. It is like propane or aerosol.
You won't see a/c refrigerant, because when it is under pressure in the a/c system, the refrigerant is a liquid. When it is open to air, it is a gas. It is like propane or aerosol.
#5
You really need to have someone check the high/low pressures on your A/C system using a A/C manifold gauge.
the pressure readings give a wealth of information.
Also check the compressor clutch gap (when the system is not on) to make sure the gap is not out of spec.
the pressure readings give a wealth of information.
Also check the compressor clutch gap (when the system is not on) to make sure the gap is not out of spec.
#6
Thanks guys. I've learned something new. Didn't know that about refrigerant. I did notice something today. I've always been able to tell if the AC was on by the sound of the motor. I can really tell when stopped at a red light or if I engage the AC while pulling a hill. When the AC is on there is much more vibration when at a stop. If I'm going uphill and hit the AC button, I've always been able to feel it. The rpm's change and there's a wee bit more vibration. These 2 things are now missing when the AC button is engaged. I'm gonna try the check the clutch and maybe a fuse whenever I get a chance. I'll look up the HVAC codes thread as well.
Thanks again guys,
Thanks again guys,
#7
Update...I went out and reseated the relays in the fuse box under the hood just for spits and giggles and then tried to figure out the HVAC codes deal (never got it to work). While messing around with the codes I realized the AC was blowing cold air again. So, maybe it was a bad connection on the relay or some other intermittent problem. Stay tuned...
#8
That pretty much verifies that the refrigerant did not leak.
When/if the a/c stops working, see if both fans are running on the radiator and also look to see if the compressor clutch plate is spinning with the compressor pulley when the a/c is turned on.
If the compressor clutch plat is not spinning, you will need to test for 12V on the non-black wire of the electrical connector for the compressor with the a/c turned on.
When/if the a/c stops working, see if both fans are running on the radiator and also look to see if the compressor clutch plate is spinning with the compressor pulley when the a/c is turned on.
If the compressor clutch plat is not spinning, you will need to test for 12V on the non-black wire of the electrical connector for the compressor with the a/c turned on.
#10
More likely excessive clutch gap, but could have been an intermittent compressor clutch relay. If it's the clutch, it will get more intermittent.
Excessive clutch gap fix is easy,...if you can get to the clutch face w/o removing the compressor. Remove a shim washer from beneath the clutch plate.
On earlier models it was possible to remove the compressor from mounting and work on clutch plate w/o discharging system. Honda shop manual doesn't provide any guidance on "in-place work", however looking at position of compressor it doesn't look promising. May be accessible from the fender well w/ wheel and fender well liner removed.
good luck
Excessive clutch gap fix is easy,...if you can get to the clutch face w/o removing the compressor. Remove a shim washer from beneath the clutch plate.
On earlier models it was possible to remove the compressor from mounting and work on clutch plate w/o discharging system. Honda shop manual doesn't provide any guidance on "in-place work", however looking at position of compressor it doesn't look promising. May be accessible from the fender well w/ wheel and fender well liner removed.
good luck