My daughter has a 2003 Honda accord 2 door. We replaced the window motor/regulator a couple of years ago and now it stopped working again. I was able to hook test leads directly to the motor and made it go up and down. I noticed one of the leads on the connector to the motor looked burnt and the plastic was melted. I replaced the connector and all I get is a ticking sound when I push the window button. I can still get it to go up and down with test wires. I have 2 switches (thought it was the problem the first time) and neither seem to make a diiference. Is there something else I am missing like a relay maybe??

 

Suggest checking the output pins (Red/blk and Red/Yel) at the MUX control unit connector to see if power and ground are being delivered. Note power and ground reverse w/ Up/Down change. See attached diagram.

Check ground connection (G601).

If power or ground missing a new mux control unit is likely needed.

good luck

 

So my daughter finally left her car again and I grounded the White/Green wire. I could here the relay near the inside fuse panel clicking but the window would not work from either the driver or passenger side. I checked for voltage at the passenger side with my wife holding the switch and there was nothing. I can use a jumper directly to the regulator motor and a battery and the window goes up and down with no problems

I do get 12 volts at the fuse which has power even when the switch is not being pushed. I was to understand there should be nothing at the fuse until the relay kicked in. Is that correct. The drives side has power as well even with no switch.

 

Fuse 26 (grn/blk) is hot only when relay closes. Did you check this fuse or fuse 26 which is hot all the time?

Suggest checking that 12v is available at the pax door panel switch when ignition switch is On. If yes, then a fault in door panel wiring or connector seems likely. If no voltage, then look for break in grn/blk wiring between drivers door switch and pax door switch.

good luck

 

I checked 26 and 27 and both have power even when the window buttons were not being pushed at all.

 

The relay is turned on by the MICU, so it may be on when the key is in the ignition.

Try measuring voltage across the ends of the positive voltage wire. Back-probe the red/blk wire at the motor connector and the window switch. You'll stick a t-pin into the wire harness side of the plastic connectors and leave everything plugged in.

See if you have 12V in the red/blk wire when you push the window switch up. Try the same test on the red/yel wire, but push the window switch to roll down the window to measure the voltage.

Hope this makes sense.