94 Accord passenger window problem
#1
94 Accord passenger window problem
I have a 94 Accord EX. Instead of a long story, I'll try to bullet point(with dashed) things so it's easier to understand.
- Only passenger window has ever had problems
- Problems started as just slow to go up, progressed to needing the assist of a hand pulling it up slightly to finish going up all the way which lasted for about half a year
- Eventually progressed where driver side master stopped controlling it, now passenger side won't even control it
- Currently, the window is stuck 3/4 of the way up
- There is no sound at all when trying to use the switch
- I took off the passenger side switch which has 5 prongs.
I tried to test with multimeter but I am not sure how to do it correctly. The first two prongs test "0" the third and fourth prongs test "0" so does that mean the switch is ok. Fifth prong shows no reaction when touch touched with anything.
Is it more likely the passenger or driver side control is bad or something else? How can I test properly?
- Only passenger window has ever had problems
- Problems started as just slow to go up, progressed to needing the assist of a hand pulling it up slightly to finish going up all the way which lasted for about half a year
- Eventually progressed where driver side master stopped controlling it, now passenger side won't even control it
- Currently, the window is stuck 3/4 of the way up
- There is no sound at all when trying to use the switch
- I took off the passenger side switch which has 5 prongs.
I tried to test with multimeter but I am not sure how to do it correctly. The first two prongs test "0" the third and fourth prongs test "0" so does that mean the switch is ok. Fifth prong shows no reaction when touch touched with anything.
Is it more likely the passenger or driver side control is bad or something else? How can I test properly?
#2
I would start by checking voltage. Set the volt meter to DC voltage. Use the meter on your battery to make sure it reads around 12.6 volts.
Once you are sure the meter is working, test the electrical connector that plugs into the switch. Touch the red volt meter lead to a pin. Touch the black meter lead to a bare metal bolt (ground). Test each of the five wires on the electrical connector with the key in the II position. Tell us which wire colors have 12V and which wire colors do not have 12V.
Once you are sure the meter is working, test the electrical connector that plugs into the switch. Touch the red volt meter lead to a pin. Touch the black meter lead to a bare metal bolt (ground). Test each of the five wires on the electrical connector with the key in the II position. Tell us which wire colors have 12V and which wire colors do not have 12V.
#3
Thanks. Just got back home about an hour ago and got the testing done.
Multimeter works fine.
I was able to stretch the negative probe cord and attach directly to the negative terminal on battery(that's the ideal way, right?).
Black - 12.31
Solid blue - .010
White - .001
Red - .001
Yellow - .010
Multimeter works fine.
I was able to stretch the negative probe cord and attach directly to the negative terminal on battery(that's the ideal way, right?).
Black - 12.31
Solid blue - .010
White - .001
Red - .001
Yellow - .010
#4
Can you recheck the wire colors?
I have these colors listed on the passenger side power window switch:
blu/yel
blu/red
blu/blk
blu/wht
blu
They are all blue wires with the second color as a stripe on them.
I have these colors listed on the passenger side power window switch:
blu/yel
blu/red
blu/blk
blu/wht
blu
They are all blue wires with the second color as a stripe on them.
#5
Yes that's what I have, I just didn't bother saying stripe. Do you have them listed in that order or was that just a list of the colors? The way I have them listed is the order they are in on the connector.
#6
They weren't in order. Just want to make sure that we are talking about the same parts.
blu/wht, blu/red, and blu/blk are normal. Blu and blu/yel are the problem.
Make sure that you don't have the window lock turned on. It is on the driver's power window switch.
blu/wht, blu/red, and blu/blk are normal. Blu and blu/yel are the problem.
Make sure that you don't have the window lock turned on. It is on the driver's power window switch.
#8
I kind of misread the wiring diagram. You can use any bare metal bolt as your ground.
Push the passenger window switch up using the driver's side switch. Does the blu or the blu/yel wire have 12V now? Use the neg battery terminal as the ground for this test.
Push the passenger window switch up using the driver's side switch. Does the blu or the blu/yel wire have 12V now? Use the neg battery terminal as the ground for this test.
#10
Two more tests should help narrow down the problem.
Put the red volt meter lead on the blu/yel. Put the black meter lead to the blu wire. Have an assistant push up the driver's switch for the passenger window. Does the meter read 12V?
You will need two pieces of wire for this test or two paperclips. Do this with the key turned off. Jump the electrical connector. Connect the blu/yel to the blu/red. Connect the blu to the blu/wht. Make sure if using paperclips that they do not touch each other. Turn the key to the II position. See if the driver's side switch will operate the window.
Put the red volt meter lead on the blu/yel. Put the black meter lead to the blu wire. Have an assistant push up the driver's switch for the passenger window. Does the meter read 12V?
You will need two pieces of wire for this test or two paperclips. Do this with the key turned off. Jump the electrical connector. Connect the blu/yel to the blu/red. Connect the blu to the blu/wht. Make sure if using paperclips that they do not touch each other. Turn the key to the II position. See if the driver's side switch will operate the window.