On older accords, you could switch 2 of the connectors (MAP and TPS sensor).

Did you put a new clamp on the duct?

 

New clamp = yes.
I will double check those connectors to see if they can be mistakenly swapped. I would think it would throw a check engine light but it's worth checking.

 

I double checked to make sure the connectors weren't swapped but the one on the duct is a two pin and the other is a three pin. No luck there.

 

The shop manual says to do an idle relearn procedure when you replace or clean the throttle body. The only way to do this is with a scanner.

You may need to take this to a shop that has a scanner that can do a honda idle relearn procedure.

 

Thank you PAhonda for that info. I had no idea I was getting into all that by wiping out the throttle body. Seriously considering keeping my 97 EX if this is the kind of horse s$&@ that these newer models offer. What a pos!

 

I'm not fan of relying on the scanner to do everything on vehicles too. I think you'll find this trend on all newer vehicles. It is frustrating for the DIY person to work on these cars.

 

So wanted to conclude this thread with the answer. I have to travel the next two weekends in a row. I should have gone ahead and replaced the IACV, or Rotary valve as they call it now, myself. I was convinced I couldnt have damaged any parts by simply unplugging the sensors and pulling off duct to replace clamp from TB. Took it to Honda dealer to have the relearn done with scanner. They call me and say they tried that and it didnt work, that rotary valve was "not responding". I went ahead and took it up the a@# and had them replace it in case they had to do idle relearn again. To the tune of $437.28. ***** f$@%!#! $27.00 in "shop supplies", to do a IACV. This is why we work on our own cars gentlemen. I havent been to a mechanic in 18 years, guess I've saved enough over that time to warrant one dealer repair. She purrs again, hope this helps someone.
PS: I'm not as new as my post count suggests, I had another name on here before. When I came back I forgot everything and started over. Thanks to all who chipped in on this crazy situation!

 

Ok so new happenings on this matter. CEL light came on and after driving from Jacksonville to Tampa and back, about 550 miles the car started surging again. It's going back to the dealer tomorrow. I'll keep you informed.

 

Update with new problems. So after last post I returned to Honda dealer and they performed a smoke test. They said they found a leak in a vacuum line. They replaced at no charge. Drove fine for a few days and started surging again. I took it back to Honda and they looked at and told me my brake booster was leaking. They wanted $770.00 to replace. I was pissed and took my car home without repair. My wife didn't tell me and went down there and reamed the GM out and they replaced the brake booster. It worked well for a month then started surging again. So, new IACV, vacuum lines smoke tested and new brake booster. All seem to help for a short time then it reverts to surging. Does anybody have any advice? I will be dumping this car soon if I can't fix it. There are three other Honda dealerships in Jacksonville. I trust none of them after this fiasco. Hoping Desert Honda or one of you guys may be able to help. Thanks in advance.

 

You may want to stop by a parts store and have them scan for codes. That can help direct your testing.

Do you have access to a scanner that can read live data? You would want to look at any sensors that are giving a strange reading at idle like throttle open to say 30% or coolant temperature saying 200F on a cold engine. The short and long term fuel trim is also something to look at. Both should be within 10% of zero on a properly running engine.