1990 Seat belt, Clock, Cruise - not working
#1
1990 Seat belt, Clock, Cruise - not working
Ok, my girlfriend moved my car a few months ago. It was fine when I parked it but the next day after she moved it there were some problems. Here is how it goes:
1. The power seatbelts are not moving when the doors are opened or closed.
2. The clock in-dash is not displaying.
3. The cruise control lights come on when the button is pressed but the unit does not engage.
4. When installing my stereo (came without) there is no power.
Now this will help you to diagnose the problem. When I installed the stereo it didn't have power, so put the constant and the key-on lines together. All power resumed (seat belts, clock etc) until the key was switched off. But a few months ago someone busted out my driver's side window, stole my stereo and a whole bunch of other stuff. Replaced the window, so far not the stereo.
*Notes: Shift selector light is not on. Shift indicator on console displays gear selection for all but the main drive (4).
Also a problem that has been bothering me, the passenger side break light isn't working properly. It's a dual bulb as you know, and the blinker is on the same set as the break but the blinker works and the break light does not. I replaced the bulb and the harness for that light. The break lamp light is on in the instrument panel.
And another issue I'm going to attempt to resolve today if you have any advice, I was driving to work 2 days ago (I work at night and live in Washington and I smoke so the heater is always on) and noticed a plastic melting smell. When I got to work I noticed there was no air blowing from the heater, tried all of the settings, A/C, hot/cold, positions. Still not blowing air. But if you put your head down on the passenger side and switch the level to high you can hear a faint humming. Should I replace the entire blower motor or is this a console error?
1. The power seatbelts are not moving when the doors are opened or closed.
2. The clock in-dash is not displaying.
3. The cruise control lights come on when the button is pressed but the unit does not engage.
4. When installing my stereo (came without) there is no power.
Now this will help you to diagnose the problem. When I installed the stereo it didn't have power, so put the constant and the key-on lines together. All power resumed (seat belts, clock etc) until the key was switched off. But a few months ago someone busted out my driver's side window, stole my stereo and a whole bunch of other stuff. Replaced the window, so far not the stereo.
*Notes: Shift selector light is not on. Shift indicator on console displays gear selection for all but the main drive (4).
Also a problem that has been bothering me, the passenger side break light isn't working properly. It's a dual bulb as you know, and the blinker is on the same set as the break but the blinker works and the break light does not. I replaced the bulb and the harness for that light. The break lamp light is on in the instrument panel.
And another issue I'm going to attempt to resolve today if you have any advice, I was driving to work 2 days ago (I work at night and live in Washington and I smoke so the heater is always on) and noticed a plastic melting smell. When I got to work I noticed there was no air blowing from the heater, tried all of the settings, A/C, hot/cold, positions. Still not blowing air. But if you put your head down on the passenger side and switch the level to high you can hear a faint humming. Should I replace the entire blower motor or is this a console error?
Last edited by poisonshift; 11-28-2011 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Added another supplemental issue.
#2
You have a lot of electrical problems going on.
You will need a volt meter to start doing some testing.
First, I would undo your tie-in of the two lines at the ignition switch. Then I would test the electrical connector for the ignition switch to see if it is bad. There are continuity tests that you will want to try. Look at the common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help section for links to online shop manuals. The 91 manual is kind of a pain to use, but it does have wiring diagrams in it.
Next, I would check all of your fuses.
I think the brake light may be a different issue. You want to check for voltage to the non-black wire to ground (any bare metal will work for a ground) when the brake pedal is pushed.
You will need a volt meter to start doing some testing.
First, I would undo your tie-in of the two lines at the ignition switch. Then I would test the electrical connector for the ignition switch to see if it is bad. There are continuity tests that you will want to try. Look at the common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help section for links to online shop manuals. The 91 manual is kind of a pain to use, but it does have wiring diagrams in it.
Next, I would check all of your fuses.
I think the brake light may be a different issue. You want to check for voltage to the non-black wire to ground (any bare metal will work for a ground) when the brake pedal is pushed.
#4
I have a feeling that the up front electrical problems are attributed to a faulty ground. I remember having to separately ground the stereo because the ground on the harness didn't do the trick. I'll get the volt meter and start working my way around. Just pulled the blower motor out, going to the scrap yard to get another in a few hours.
I've check all of the fuses several times, so that can't be the problem.
When I got the car it was a stolen recovery so the ignition was sheared off and the jacker used a screwdriver to start it. I replaced the ignition lock and put some quick-steel on it. But before I got around to doing that I was starting from the electronics and I remember it sparking a few times when I moved the steering wheel up and down. But that didn't seem to do any damage.
Now that I think of it the guide light for the key doesn't work anymore either. So my money is running on a bad ground.
To save time and do a quick test where should I run a ground from? I could find the old stereo ground line and hook that to the body, but I'm not sure it will hold all of that weight. Dreading doing the one line at a time thing.
Oh, look my finger is bleeding. Damned blower motor.
I've check all of the fuses several times, so that can't be the problem.
When I got the car it was a stolen recovery so the ignition was sheared off and the jacker used a screwdriver to start it. I replaced the ignition lock and put some quick-steel on it. But before I got around to doing that I was starting from the electronics and I remember it sparking a few times when I moved the steering wheel up and down. But that didn't seem to do any damage.
Now that I think of it the guide light for the key doesn't work anymore either. So my money is running on a bad ground.
To save time and do a quick test where should I run a ground from? I could find the old stereo ground line and hook that to the body, but I'm not sure it will hold all of that weight. Dreading doing the one line at a time thing.
Oh, look my finger is bleeding. Damned blower motor.
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