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1991 accord changed trans now turns over but wont start

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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #11  
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The next step is to test the injector resistor box. It is on the drivers side of the car near the windshield (#2 below). Unplug the electrical connector to it, and there should be 5 wires going to it.

With the key in the II position, one of the wires going to the resistors should have 12V to ground. Once you find the 12V wire, you should test the resistance on each resistor for the injector.

If it is like my 95 accord, the pinout would be with #4 not having a wire to it. On the resistor itself, check resistance for 1-2, 1-3, 1-5, and 1-6. They should all be 5-7 ohms.

1 2 3
4 5 6


 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #12  
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ok ill try this, i will add that i pulled the access panel for the pump and checked the voltage there, the blk wire has none, the yelow white had 6.66v and the green red had just over 12 v constant w key in 11 position now i know i didnt get this 12v before,maybe i didnt have a good ground before...
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 09:55 PM
  #13  
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yea i got 6.3 across the board on that box
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:00 PM
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You are not getting enough voltage from the main relay to the yellow wire. You said you swapped relays already. Copy and paste the link below in your browser.

On the right side, it shows how to test the harness for the main relay. See if voltage or ground is missing here on one of the 7 pins.

media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/media/manuals/accordManual/400/6-216.pdf

The problem I am having is the 91 free manual online sucks.

The 94 manual that you can download is complete and much better, but there are some differences in wire color and numbering. If you are getting low voltage to the main relay, then the next step is to test the ignition switch.

Copy:

spoonertuner.com/manuals

Download the Accord 1994 CD7 CD9 USDM JDM Service Manual
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:03 PM
  #15  
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still not starting and no hum from the back, can it really b that the pump is bad
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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Another item that I thought of.

Disconnect the battery and clean all ends of both battery cables (where the ground bolts to the radiator support, both connections to the fuse box in the engine bay). Clean the bolt threads and washers. Use something abrasive like a wire brush or sand paper.

Make sure the connections are secure when you reinstall them.
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #17  
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The relay is not sending enough power to the fuel pump (yellow wire on the outside of that access panel should get 12V when key is in the II position for about two seconds). What are you using as ground when you do the electrical testing?

That blk wire should be shorted to ground. I think the ground bolt is close by to the access panel. Clean and tighten that too.
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #18  
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ok so i got some codes from he trans s light finally, i got 14 1 2 7 and 8 in that order i tested the harness to the main and there is a side w 4 leads and a side w 3, with the 4 on bottom number one of the four on the left is 12 to both the top left and middle and is .22 on the right one then the 2nd of the bottom 4 is nada, the third of the bottom 4 is 12v to the same as the 1rst one and the third to reads .22 just like the other
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #19  
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yea i tested it again in the back i get 12v , 6+ v then 0 on the 3 wires no matter when the key is turned on
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:41 PM
  #20  
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cant find tcm codes any threads
 



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