How's it going for everyone?

I had posted a thread before dealing with the same issue:

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...problem-56058/

I've checked the engine codes and my check engine light just stays "on" after shorting the plug under the kick plate. Does this mean there is nothing wrong that the computer can find?

I've cleaned the eyelet connector on the thermostat housing. I've inspected the distributor and the rotor and cap look mint. I've replaced all the spark plugs too.

It starts and runs a lot better then it did before but now it's sputtering and this morning completely stalled on me in the middle of the road when I was accelerating from a red light.

What else can I try?

Thanks

 

Start the engine. See if shaking the key will get the engine to stall out.

Do you have any U-Pull-It type junkyards near you?

 

Fuel, Air, Spark:

Check fuel pressure and fuel quality, seafoam the thing too
Clean the intake components- turn on the car with the throttle open a bit and see if it starts up better.
And you've got the spark part down.

 

Shaking the key around doesn't do anything. Yes I have lots of auto wreckers here in Calgary.

Thanks Robinson for the input, I'll try those things.


I had a friend come over that is much more experienced in this stuff then me and he was checking a lot of things. He pulled lots of wires off and was seeing if the check engine light would come on. Currently the car only sputters randomly and wants to completely die at times. But a lot of the time it runs completely fine.

It also fires up a lot better now too. It seems to be just a problem with sputtering and wanting to stall out now while driving.

We changed the fuel filter, changed the pcv valve, cleaned out some of the EGR system and still this morning it was sputtering but just a little and no complete die outs.

Is there anyway this could be the distrutor? My friend seems to think it could not be the distributor cause that would cause the car to act crappy all the time and not just sporadically.

 

Also the car seems to be firing up all the time now without a problem so it just sputters now while driving and wants to stall out while driving.

 

Including my suggestions above, especially the fuel pressure test-

That sounds like an upstream o2 sensor maybe. 91 has an upstream right?

My car had a problem where it would sputter when first starting up and driving until it went into closed loop. Weird problem that I eventually solved little by little.

Get a multimeter out and probe ground and the signal o2 wire. Do that with the other suspect sensors too.

Also if you think its the distributor then double check your timing. Or it could be the ignition coil, you can check the resistance between the terminals.

Multimeters are your diagnostic friend, especially when you have a pre-obd2 car.

 

Thanks again Robinson,

Today, the accord stalled on the road and I could not get it to fire up at all. I had to get it towed My friend that looked at it before with me is sure it's the fuel pump.


Could a distributor half *** work before it dies? Would an O2 sensor cause the car to completely die like this? I have a multimeter but I'm clueless when it comes to using it I guess this is a good time to start learning to use it.

Same thing goes for checking the timing on a distributor, no idea how to do it. My friend that checked my car with me didn't use the multimeter at all.

 

O2 sensor wouldnt cause it if the car wont start up. The car can start without one.

To check the timing you need a timing light pointed at the notch and the timing belt. Youll have to google how to do it for 91 accords.

I tend to hop all over the place when Im trying to solve car issues but what Im thinking is cover all the basics in each of the three categories. (Keep in mind Im used to my 97 so there may be post obd1 stuff thats irrelevant)

So fuel:

Check your fuel injectors to see if they are firing correctly. Simplest way is to take your ear to the butt end of a scewdriver and press the point against the injector while the engine is running. You should hear rapid, consistent clicking. Injectors don't seem too likely but its an easy test.
You can rent a fuel pressure tester kit and check the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. Then check the fuel pump electrical supply using the multimeter.

Air:

You did the EGR clean out, double check the solenoids
Check and clean the IACV
Clean the Throttle plate
Throttle position sensor- voltages
MAP sensor- voltages
Air filter
Intake temp sensor- voltages

Spark (this is when you have fun with the multimeter):

Ground Connections
Battery- should be 12.5 +/- engine off, 14.6 +/- on
Alternator- should be the same and charging the battery
Distributor timing
ignition coil resistance


Is the problem still that your engine is getting flooded? Can you smell gas in your exhaust? Timing would make sense there if it was.

Here is a link to the FSM download for troubleshooting procedures and info
https://rapidshare.com/#!download|97...16E517D73E7568

 

Yes I can smell gas really badly around the times it dies hard. And during the times when it wont start it reeks of gas.

 

Ok, so its flooding or at least running really rich. And the spark plugs are fouled? (black carbon deposits) I think you have one issue that is damaging the spark plugs, so the car will run ok but then the spark plugs get damaged and just make it worse again.

You could have a leaky fuel injector. 3rd gens aren't carbonated right?