I say keep it here.

Also was that fuse tap the one you ordered from China???

If so it came in handy after all

 

No I did not use the china fuse. I bought a fuse at auto parts store for $6. Poorman how do we tackle the window problem?

 

First, hard to fix things when they work.....meaning you can only test when they are not working.

When they act up, is it all of the windows or "a window"? If it is one, which one.

With the other electrical issues, the pin that is missing power to the blower relay comes from the under hood fuse panel.....which is the same panel that should have the fuses for the windows.....hummm.

Anyway, key on- four wires should be hot. WHT/YEL, BLU/BLK, GRN/BLK and YEL/BLK. Of course the BLK (two I think) should have good ground.

 

First of all it not the fuses...and yes its all windows

 

Agree on the fuses, I'm just wondering if something is up with the underhood fuse panel. There are connections under and inside of it that might be bad.

You can also check the BLK wires to be sure they have good ground - or add another ground.

 

OK this is what I got .... the relay for the power windows is is located in the u/h fuse box and it clicks when I move it. I tested the front pass door while wide open...click no power...I press down on the relay hard and click and the flipping the switch I have power. I let go...no power. That what I have to do yesterday...it was hot in NY. My wife went to work...I will have to stop her off to play with the car tomorrow. What do you think may be the problem. I had a new relay and tried it..same result. So its not the relay...

 

Ok ....im back guys...now i got no heat in my 1991 accord dx...wtf..blower is working fine...no heat blowing out of the vents

 

How have you been? I guess good since we haven't seen you in a while

Anyway, a few things to check......

1) Have someone turn the heat **** from hot to cold as you watch the cable on the heater control valve.....is the cable moving?
1a, if not-pull the **** and be sure the shaft is not broken. If not broken check the cable movement from the pass side floor board......look up the blend door adjustment in the manual.
1b, is the cable on the heater control valve is moving. Check the temp on the hoses before and after the heater control valve (they can and do fail inside). If the temp on the engine side is hot and not on the heater core side then suspect a bad valve.
1c, if the temp on the hoses into and out of the heater control valve are the same. Compare those to the outlet hose from the valve.

 

Ok will check the cable tomorrow

 

Forgot one piece of info last night. The heater control valve is connected to the **** inside the car by two cables.

One from the **** to the blend door lever - found by looking under the glove box. The other goes from the blend door lever to the actual valve under the hood. If you have downloaded the shop manual you can find the procedure for the "blend door adjustment" and will see this set up....again just adding what I forgot last night - Getting old sucks