1992 Accord Master Window Switch Connector
#1
1992 Accord Master Window Switch Connector
Hi Everyone,
The electric motor burned out on my driver's side window, thank goodness it stopped at the bottom where I can get to the window bolts easily. I have a temporary window made of Frost King Crystal Clear Plastic Vinyl Sheeting, it makes an incredibly clear cover for the opening. I don't have time to replace the regulator this week and it's going to be in the 80's where I live. With the door panel off, the rest of the window switches don't work. Looking at the diagram can anyone tell me which terminals to jumper so the other three windows can be activated with their individual door switches. I have the Honda Factory Service Manual, but it doesn't address this. Mechanical stuff comes easy to me......electrical not so much.
My Dad was an Army Air Corp B-17 Electrician/Mechanic during WWII and it's at times like these I miss him all the more (passed in 2008).
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Contact me by PM if you need a scan from my Factory Service Manual. Thanks in advance!
Chris
The electric motor burned out on my driver's side window, thank goodness it stopped at the bottom where I can get to the window bolts easily. I have a temporary window made of Frost King Crystal Clear Plastic Vinyl Sheeting, it makes an incredibly clear cover for the opening. I don't have time to replace the regulator this week and it's going to be in the 80's where I live. With the door panel off, the rest of the window switches don't work. Looking at the diagram can anyone tell me which terminals to jumper so the other three windows can be activated with their individual door switches. I have the Honda Factory Service Manual, but it doesn't address this. Mechanical stuff comes easy to me......electrical not so much.
My Dad was an Army Air Corp B-17 Electrician/Mechanic during WWII and it's at times like these I miss him all the more (passed in 2008).
Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Contact me by PM if you need a scan from my Factory Service Manual. Thanks in advance!
Chris
#3
That was my first option, just remove the master from the door panel and plug it in. The screws that hold it to the door panel are so tight, with the proper size Phillips head, I can't budge them.
#4
You need the master switch in place if you want to activate the passenger windows by their individual door switch. With the main switch turn on at the master switch, it is part of the circuit and provides the ground (-) necessary for the passenger windows. Power (+) and ground (-) are switched between wires at the electric reversible motors to make the window go up or down.
Without the master switch, you can only manually jump wire terminals each time you want to raise or lower a passenger window.
Without the master switch, you can only manually jump wire terminals each time you want to raise or lower a passenger window.
#5
You need the master switch in place if you want to activate the passenger windows by their individual door switch. With the main switch turn on at the master switch, it is part of the circuit and provides the ground (-) necessary for the passenger windows. Power (+) and ground (-) are switched between wires at the electric reversible motors to make the window go up or down.
Without the master switch, you can only manually jump wire terminals each time you want to raise or lower a passenger window.
Without the master switch, you can only manually jump wire terminals each time you want to raise or lower a passenger window.
#6
Do you understand that you cannot leave the terminal jumper wires in place?
For each passenger window, you would have to separately attach jumper wires to different terminals at the harness wire connectors when you want to raise or lower each passenger window. You would only jump each terminal just long enough to raise or lower a window, then you would disconnect the jumper.
Also, if you inadvertently jump the wrong terminals, you may blow out a fuse or worse damage something (though less probability of that).
For each passenger window, you would have to separately attach jumper wires to different terminals at the harness wire connectors when you want to raise or lower each passenger window. You would only jump each terminal just long enough to raise or lower a window, then you would disconnect the jumper.
Also, if you inadvertently jump the wrong terminals, you may blow out a fuse or worse damage something (though less probability of that).
#8
Make note that the terminal cavity number is different depending on whether they are female or male. For female, the numbering is on the wire side.
From unplugged driver’s side master switch 14P gray connector:
Only leave the jumpers in long enough to raise or lower windows, then disconnect.
Front passenger window
To lower window:
To lower window:
To lower window:
From unplugged driver’s side master switch 14P gray connector:
Only leave the jumpers in long enough to raise or lower windows, then disconnect.
Front passenger window
To lower window:
- Connect a jumper from terminal no. 13 (Blu/Blk wire) to terminal no. 2 (Blu/Yel wire)
- Connect a separate jumper from terminal no. 9 (Blk wire) to terminal no. 1 (Blu/Grn wire)
- Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.
- Connect a jumper from terminal no. 13 (Blu/Blk wire) to terminal no. 1 (Blu/Grn wire)
- Connect a separate jumper from terminal no. 9 (Blk wire) to terminal no. 2 (Blu/Yel wire)
- Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.
To lower window:
- Connect a jumper from terminal no. 14 (Yel/Blk wire) to terminal no. 6 (Yel wire)
- Connect a separate jumper from terminal no. 9 (Blk wire) to terminal no. 5 (Yel/Grn wire)
- Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.
- Connect a jumper from terminal no. 14 (Yel/Blk wire to terminal no. 5 (Yel/Grn wire)
- Connect a separate jumper from terminal no. 9 (Blk wire) to terminal no. 6 (Yel wire)
- Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.
To lower window:
- Connect a jumper from terminal no. 12 (Grn/Blk wire) to terminal no. 4 (Grn/Yel wire)
- Connect a separate jumper from terminal no. 9 (Blk wire) to terminal no. 3 (Grn wire)
- Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.
- Connect a jumper from terminal no. 12 (Grn/Blk wire to terminal no. 3 (Grn wire)
- Connect a separate jumper from terminal no. 9 (Blk wire) to terminal no. 4 (Grn/Yel wire)
- Then turn Ignition switch to ON (II) position.
#9
You can always get an impact screw driver set to remove the screws. One good whack with a hammer should take the screw out. They are a good tool to have around and you will find many uses for it like removing set screws on brake rotors.
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