1992 Accord. F22a6.

Put on blaster SS coil. Car ran great for about an hour. Car died going about 55 on the highway at about 3k rpms. Appeared to die completely still had power.

Get towed home.

Put original ignition coil in car. Still will not start.

No spark coming from ignition coil to distributor.

I have been reading and trying things for about 16 hours over the last two days now.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Have you tested the ICM yet?

 

I completely replaced the distributor. The connectors inside the distributor have the correct voltages as described in the shop manual.

 

I have a 1992 Honda accord. F22a6. Auto transmission. I installed a MSD Blaster SS coil. Car ran great for a few rips up and down the street.

About 45 minutes later went to goto class. Made it about 9 miles onto the interstate and the car abruptly died but did not lose power.

Car is now towed to my garage.

Tests for no spark whatsoever. Remove blaster coil and install stock coil. Still no spark.

Replace stock ignition coil with new stock ignition coil and a 100% new distributor.

Still no spark. Car originally gave CEL code 15. Now no code at all. CEL comes on for 2 seconds then turns off. Car will not start or spark.

Fuel is at the fuel rail but I don't know if there is enough pressure I don't know if there is a way to check the pressure even. I am still somewhat new to auto repair.

Did the cv axle, intake, brakes, rotors, power steering pump, crankshaft pully. I need to get this car started ASAP so that I have a vehicle.

Looking around for used HONDA's in my area the cheapest decent one is more than $2500 which I don't have. I do have say up to 1k for parts though.

I apologize if I am missing any info.

 

I merged your other thread. Please do not start two separate threads regarding the same help question.

 

Ok sorry for that do you have any suggestions?

 

You said that you did tests, but didn't list what was done. Let us know what you have done so far.

Check for 12V to the blk/yel wire at both the distributor and coil with the key in the II position.

Check for engine codes. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum for a link on checking codes. You can also watch this video.
Below the distributor, there is a ground that bolts to the thermostat housing. Disconnect that ground, clean the bolt and eyelet with a piece of sand paper or a wire brush, then reconnect.

Update us on these tests too. This will help narrow down the problem. Once we narrow it down, you should not spend anywhere near $1000 to fix this.

 

Im confused, 1 you say you have no spark so you check 4 fuel rail? 2 what other performance parts have you installed? Reason I ask about 2nd question is most people wont put on just a msd

 

FUBZ - I am a noob so I figured a good cheap place to start would be the MSD blaster just to get started doing something on the car.

I checked fuel rail because I was thinking maybe if there was no fuel pressure the ECU would not allow it to spark.

I have installed no other performance parts, just tune up type stuff such as valve adjustment, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gasket, lower rocker arm gaskets... brakes...etc..

I was origionally getting code 15 - ignition spark output; but that code is now gone after replacing the distributor and ignition coil with a new stock coil. Now the car is showing no code at all.

With key in on(II) position, the black/yellow wire - (Placing positive cord of multimeter on this wire and the negative cord of multimeter on the negative battery post.) The coil has 11.62 volts.

Same test on black/yellow on the alternator is showing 8.5 volts.

I unplugged the cables to do this test. Please let me know if I should re do with the plugs attached still.

I did not crank the car for these tests.

 

Ok I now removed the ground bolt on the thermostat housing. It was extremely corroded. Sanded all surfaces and re bolted.

Still no start and same voltage results. Coil - 11.5 Distributor Low 8's