If that's badly corroded, how about the OTHER ends of both battery cables? Any other connections providing power over to the distributor?

 

I'm not sure what you mean. The connections that are directly on the battery have 0 corrosion. Or are you talking about where the connection goes into the ECU?

Inside of the distributor the 4 connections test exactly how they should in the shop manual.

Inside of the dizzy there is voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. There is also voltage between the light green wire and ground. There is continuity between the yellow green wire between engine control module and igniter.

I am unsure how to check for continuity between blue wire and tach as it says to do.
Also the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and light green wires is within the 1100-3300 ohms as described in shop manual.


The low 8 volt power at the black/yellow plug on the outside of the dizzy concerns me....

 

Well this has been disappointingly unhelpful.

 

See if this guide will help you resolve your problem:

Part 1 -Honda Accord, Prelude Distributor Test

 

Ok, I will run through it and let you know the results! Thank you for the link...8 days of searching and I haven't seen this guide yet lol TY

 

Sorry I didn't look at the board yesterday evening...

If that one ground cluster was corroded, & the voltages are still low, I was suggesting that you check for corrosion on the "other ends" of the battery cables. Often people keep the battery posts clean, but where the ground cable (for example) bolts to the car body it's corroded or loose at that end.

 

Also, check the ECU ground. On your car, it should be located on the thermostat housing.

 

Ok; so I completed the tests that you gave me, it is stating that my igniter is bad.

When I check ignition coil it is coming back as fine. Please advise.

 

So I guess your ignitor is bad & your coil is OK. You don't have to replace them both.

 

I am having this same issue with my Honda Prelude with an F22a6 engine . It ran for a few months after getting the timing belt and water pump replaced , then it started cutting off and having trouble starting . I was told it was an igniter problem (by a Honda mechanic ) . So I changed the distributor (OE Honda Part) along with the coil , plugs and wires (all oe ) . All of my wires check out , all voltage , resistance and continuity checks are good . The problem i am having is No Pulse signal coming from the ECU ...... I cant find anything on how to check this or any other sensors that may be involved (besides the ones in the distributor) .... Could someone please help me .. I was able to get the car to start a month ago (for 5 min) then it died and hasnt run since . I have done everything i can think of , along with everything suggested by Honda ... Does this mean my ECU is bad ?