Hi,

Ok just bought a 1993 accord automatic with 230+k miles on it for 800 bucks.

The guy I bought it from sold it with a current GA emmissions inspection that passed in march of 2012. When I went to the tag office to register and swap the title to my name I couldn't because apparently when it was tested in OCT 2012 it did not pass emmissions. I did not have that paperwork but it was in the Database for the state in the tag office. It is Illegal in GA to sell a car without salvage title if it has not passed emmissions.

Anyway there is no check engine light on and no ECU codes that I can see from doing the Jumped plug test thingy.
(fixed)
Here are the issues I have found so far any info would be helpfull. I am asking here but also searching the forums for related posts its just a lot of info to colate.

Issues:
Not passing GA emmissions(fixed)
SRS light on
ABS light on, but occasionally goes off
Exhaust leak(fixed)
tie rod ends boots cracked
drivers side boots on all suspention cracked
bushing worn on upper wishbone looking thing driver side
blinking D4 light and random up and down shifting issues(fixed)
drivers front inside door handle latch broken off
driver side rear power window will not go up or down
power locks do not work
drivers side rear door lock mechanisim has angle iron for the thumb lock
driver side electric fan on backside of radiator missing
home made fan wireing from interior fuse box to passenger side fan on radiator(working just ugly)
home made wire and switch routed from ac compressor thru driver door and mounted by hood release (working but ghetto and ugly)
Temp control and fan **** on interior ac controls missing(fixed)
spare tire and Jack missing(got spare jack still MIA for now and need a 4 way lug wrench)
trunk leaks and holds water
trunk decking(particle board under carpet disintergrated(fixed with a hinged plywood template)
Drivers armrest will not stay in position keeps falling down
two diffrent calipers on front brakes one akemodo (or something) on driverside and a nisin on passenger side front
Driver side rotor grooved and worn
Various paint chipped away exterior
Radio antena broken off can hear motor kick on when cranking car but no antenna to push up
Horn non functional
Cruise control Non Functional

I think thats all I have so far.

The title says Honda accord 10th anniversary edition, but none of the external badgeing reflects this, How can i tell which version it is EX DX LX SE not sure what I am looking for here or how much diffrence it makes.

the motor plate says F22a1 and appears to be bone stock
I have not pulled off the header heat shield to see if its OEM or has been swapped.

It is sitting on black steel wheels and boy are they UGLY.

it appears to have been hit on the front passenger quarter panel and the dents just banged out and I suspect thats why the boots and stuff on that side are newer and why the caliper on that side is diffrent since its an American manufactured sedan and not a Japanese one (japanese are the ones that come with Nisin calipers as I am sure you all know)

As I said I am looking up info on all these issues and a lot of others, I will post what I fix as I go.

I do have a question though, on the front I have p170r14 tires, but the back has p175r14 tires, why would someone do that and what is the diffrence?

So far I have changed the sparkplugs, oil, and all other fluids all look and smell ok. All resivoirs filled to where they need to be.

I patched the exhaust with some Jb weld and cut out a piece from an old Liscense plate for the bigger hole and Jb welded it into place, then took a section of tin from an old roofing piece snipped it to fit then wrapped it around the leaking exhaust componant and used large hose clamps to hold it wrapped around the leaking portion. I seem to have stopped the exhaust leak at least for now

I changed the pads on the front and rear brakes, the two calipers gave me a fit but I welded a small piece of metal onto the padbacking plates then ground them down to make them fit the Nisin caliper snugly, will see how that works till i can get a matching caliper for that side.

I changed the air filter and took off the egr valve and cleaned it really well then put it back on (it was really dirty)

Cleaned the throttle body as thouroughly as I could without removing it.

I put in a fuel injector cleaner, and filled up with High test gas.

I will go get it tested again in the AM and will let you all know how it did.

Things I suspect:
Shifting problems(d4 light) probably a bad TCU will be removing and inspecting tomarrow
COULD BE: TPS on throttle body Dirty, faulty, or not adjusted correctly(will dig into that if tcu is ok or I repair the resistors and capacitors on the circuit board, and it does not fix the issue)
COULD ALSO BE: Dirty or faulty Shift solenoids (will require more research for me to take those off and mess with them)

SRS light
since it was obviously hit I think it has a new stering colum and either they didnt reset the SRS or its shorted or bad plug, OR the clock spring has gone bad cause the horn doesnt work and neiter does cruise control. all possibly related.

ABS Light

Im lost here maybe a wheel speed sensor, I dunno no leaks at master cylinder or slave or the booster or resivoir, gonna try bleeding breaks first and resetting the light, not sure what else it could be.

I have ordered the parts for the steering and suspension waiting for a warm day to tackle that part. (also to see if it passes emissions and I can get a tag)

Makeing a Pull a Part run for a spare tire, a jack, possibly a tcu, and any other cool parts I can find.

If anyone has any sugestions I am all ears and i will utilize the search function to find what I can and post what I fix as I go maybe even get pics if it ever stops raining.

Thanks for reading

Bull

 

Ok, I'm slow so can we try this a bit differently?

Where I live a 93 would fail testing for new tags for the horn and the exhaust leak. So if you take it for testing for tags, what is failing in GA - I find it hard to believe you fail for not having a spare and jack? EDIT- I had to - if they ever tried to verify the "roadside jack" in the wifes car, they'd have to remove 100 lbs of this that and the other to even get to the jack (Pilot- don't even get me started if she still had the 95, that be 2 hours just to get everything out and back in to check the spare tire).

I'd like to start by getting the car on the road....easier to get to work and make money to repair other things in order of importance. Again, IMHO the spare tire and "road side jack" are almost at the bottom.

But if you are just "spraying" different forums for ideas........good luck, keep us posted on how it goes.

 

Sorry No I just go on a roll listing what all was wrong with the car. In Ga they have 2 emission tests. If your car is OBDII (i think this is the term they plug into your computer and clip a wire onto one of your spark plug wires and run the car at two diffrent speeds on the rollers kinda like a dyno. If it is OBDI they clip onto a sparkplug wire and stick a probe up the tail pipe, and run the test at two diffrent speeds.

Apparently in October on the slow speed test the NoX failed by .03% PPM.
I am not exactly sure what that means but it was the only failing catagory on the printout.

I took it again today after the Tune up, cleaning the EGR, Injector cleaner and 97 octane gas, and am happy to say it passed. I now have a emmissions passed tagged and insured Legal GA ride again.

I didnt mean to confuse you. The car just has so many things wrong with it I listed it all in the general forum rather than people thinking I was trying to up my post count by posting in multiple forums.

Today was productive,

Passed emmissions
got tag
DID the tcu fix (hopefull) took a short test drive and it seems to be better but not sure how long I need to run it to be 100% sure.

 

You do have quite a list of items to repair. How much do you want to spend fixing the car?

If you have to prioritize, I would fix the problems that deal with safety first.

The brake(s) with the scored rotors is where I would start. Is the rotor that is messed up on the front or the back?

The suspension would be next. A loose component like a ball joint can break while driving and cause some major problems.

The modified wiring is very strange. I would recommend trying to get the car back to stock wiring. There are a couple of ways that you may want to fix the wiring. It may be easier to find a wrecked 93 at a pick an pull (there should be a lot now) with a complete wiring harness.

 

Yep I agree, I am waiting for the steering and suspension parts to come in, As far as the wireing goes its working for now and when I get the second fan I will probably try to get it back stock.

I am working on a shoe string budget till I can return to work.

The rotor is shot had it miced today and I gotta get a new one it cant be turned, I am also gonna replace the caliper on the front passenger side so I have the same calipers on both sides, the rotor is on the frontdriver side.

When those come in I am also replaceing the wheel bearings too as well as the control arms and all that stuff all the boots on the front are trashed .

I replaced the capacitors and resistors on the TCU last night now it shifts like a dream. fixed it all for 10 bucks instead of 100 plus for a re manned tcu. and it asnt that hard.

My budget for the car to get it a daily driver and safe for my 16 year old to drive as well is 1500

so 800 for the car+400 in it so far, leaves me with 200 more and I havnt been to the junk yard yet.

Bull

 

You will find out that changing the rotors is a major PIA on these accords.

Since you are replacing a wheel bearing, you may want to get a hub from a 98-99 Acura CL and do a hub over the rotor conversion.

Then changing the rotors is pretty easy. There is a writeup on this in the DIY section if interested.