yes..yes..yes..same results.
Also if i disconnect and reconnect the battery .
the car runs fine transmission changes up and downshifts OK..
kicksdown just fine..then a few minutes later ,,its like the clutch dissengages
or lockup solenenoid ,maybe fluid pressure goes low..
However if i turn off ignition and restart the engine it runs fine Help.

 

Same problem, mine is a 94 chassis, no idea where powertrain is from . f22b1 auto trans . Sorry for spelling mistakes. I've checked continuity in both shift and torque con. Lockup solenoids resistance present in all circuits, i was checking from pig tails to batt. Grd. Pulled solenoids and checked them off vehicle, they energized (not as loud as i thought they would, had small amount of fluid eject). I am preparing to check signal going to solenoids, both cold and running temp, with a check light. Looking for difference in voltage, figure if signal weakins it should be showin by the lights intinsity. Coolant signal will be scrootinized next. A few questions, im new to honda's not car problems, are there two coolant sensors, appears to be one on each side of distributer. Dash heat gauge appears to rise properly, do the sensors control different systems? I will print my findings and try to document ohm readings and voltage drop and other potentialy helpful info. Also did those with this problem run self diagnostic on tcm or theres just no d4 light blinking during regular operation? My tcm threw codes 10, 8, 13, 14. Any input or ideas are openly welcomed.

 

There is a sticky at the top (Common DIY and Info Threads) that will help you with the codes - what the mean and then what to test. In that same sticky there is a link to a shop manual for a 94 Accord.

The two on the end of the head....the single pin drives the gauge. The two pin one tells the ECU what the temp of the engine is.....ps the Trans is part of this as well. The code 10 is for engine coolant sensor - the two pin one.

 

Ha fun i was looking at fan switches. Replaced temp sensor, flashed codes, checked clear, went for 2 mile test same problem. Checked dtc 15 only one to appear on d4. Still no engine code. Still no d4 under normal driving. Well whats became normal driving for this car. I have not been driving it except to test. Replaced main shaft sensor, flashed memory, confirmed clear, retested, same neutral action when shifting clutch packs almost feel like they're slipping in 2nd hard to test, hard to test heavy accel. In middle of city. But tach appears to jump and pull back down. This is in shifter position 2. Third seems. ok if it shifts that far, first flys by to fast to notice. Need to find hill close by.

 

Sorry doin this on my phone at work and phone is posting before im done and not cooperating when trying to edit. After 2nd test no codes only drove about a mile (thats the retest from before) checked tcm codes, none present. Ok? May be related........after second test tryed to start car, got rotation no start tryed a few times (quick bursts) no start, let it sit for 1 minute put it in neutral it started. Only happend one other time in the month i've had it same senario, but trans was appeared to shift correctly. Thinking main relay? Ecm?

 

Hi - Have searched high and low and found lots of help but no fix...

Almost the same as the early posters - but have not seen any respond with a fix

First start up and when you put the car in any gear, it seems fine, no slipping, no strange noises. After a very short time, you lose everything and the car acts as if it is neutral. Shifting to any other gear does nothing. If you shut the car off for a few minutes OR longer in some cases, and restart; it will repeat the scenario.

This same issue happens no matter what gear, even reverse and low.

After checking out Solenoids and the control module I am happy that that is all working. All dash lights behave as expected with no warnings (unless you leave a solenoid disconnected LOL ).


Findings 1:

After idling for a while and trying many things, I checked the oil line hoses and they were cold !!!!

I let it sit for a while and tried again... When standing over the motor / transmission area; at start up there appears to be an interesting whirring sound and after a while it stops. Seems to last about the same time as the system would work....

Oil pump fail or is there another valve in the path that is blocked / closed / not operating correctly ??? Or maybe NC/NM speed sensors ?


Part 2:

OK - Flushed and used another bit of advise and removed the cooling hoses and watch the crap come out while adding new oil. Went from a dark murky colour to something much better....

Let the car sit and then ran through the gears - at each change one could feel the drive working.

Let sit for 1hr (off) and then went for a drive around a few back streets and went through the gears... Maybe 2k and after 5 min I though - FIXED.

Pulled up at a coffee shop and had a coffee and a smile.

Jumped in and away we went and then not 150M down the road loss of power. Manually selected other gears and nothing... coasted to a stop.

Turned off and checked for leaks / and oil level. Looked OK. Started and had power but only got 200M.

Let sit again for a min with engine off. Started up and got another 200M. Same deal again and after 2 more attempts got home.

Better than what I had yesterday BUT it seems that as the system warms up or starts pumping - something is failing. No lights flashing, no limp mode....

How to force limp mode ?????

If that engages but then fails after a while it has to be a valve / oil pump failing. Have looked and searched and can find lots of references to the modulator valve / pump and to test... "Troubleshooting the solenoid and the modulator fluid pressure"

But do you think I can see / find the plug to fit a gauge !!!! (Getting old and poor lighting / access. ) lots of basic drawings but no pic's of the real deal...

But starting to look like the pressure regulator is sticky or oil pump worn or the filter in the transmission is clogged. It is almost like an AIR Lock or a sensor that is failing as it warms up.

Maybe this post will bump the thread and the others can let us know what fixed their problems

 

Curious as to how you pulled hose and got fluid, might try this just get any trash out also thought about trying to flush cooler only. (For matinance and peace of mind only). I will (should) know if pressure and shift solenoid are proper and working this afternoon, bought a line pressure gauge last night. Also picked up tps sensor, a link earlier in the thread had electrical trouble shooting faulty tps gave same semptoms and no blinking lights. I should add, havent been driving mine daily, only test drives. Yesterday i took it on an errand with some friends. I can pull onto highways directly from my neighborhood, babyed it to 70, shifts were acceptable all the way to fourth (eng cool) exited highway, stoped at light, and had first into second then nothing. Put it into manual second, 2nd engaged fine, took off when i put it in d3 it would feel like neutral. Returned to manual 2, caught gear and i begain to climb some what steep hill, gave her lot of throttle (not WOT), and climed from 30 to 50, with 2 other people up hill, and 2nd never slipped, no rpm jumps, shakes just smooth steady acceleration. Leads me to beleive the tranny just doesnt know what to do when at temp. After line pressure test and solenoid test under pressure, i will check computer boards and then TPS will be inspected. AM I LOOKing in the right direction?

 

Line pressure 120, when shifted will drop to around 30 in all gears (except neutral, it stays the same) and gradualy rise back to 120, 2nd gear (manual) drops to 30 and rises to 70. modulator valve? Please help with location or other tests to perform. Or is this normal? Ive read it shouldnt be over 95. HELP!!!!!

 

Reading here - Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.

Your above on the Max pressure and I would look at the activation of the Solenoids to see if you get below 6psi when they are in operation...

PS. Can you take a pic of where you connected the gauge... I can not seem to find the place...

 

Thought so too, but the pdf. I downloaded says 110 to 130 psi. 10mm head, bolt is m8, located just to the left of shift solenoids, has a crush washer on it aswell. Ha, played accord lottery and came up short, TPS sensor was changed shows no difference. Took car out for test drive last night while traffic was lite, went WOT from 5 mph till the tach shot way high, passed 6500, let of throttle enough for second to engauge, eased of gas car continued to shift gears through 4th and had power in 4th to propel car. Stoped at a light hung a right and nothing from the trans, went manual 2nd, gear engauged and back to the house i went playin with the shifter. Like the tranny doesn't know what to do. Oh at the begining of my adventure 1st held fine, and no rev limiter was heard or felt, noticed torque converter housing making a whirling sound at start up as well. If need a new tranny fine i got the skills, but if i replace it and same senario, im gonna slap my own grandma!!!