1994 Accord LX Need to pump brakes to stop
Each time I would like to stop the car, I need to pump the brakes each time, about 4-5 times before it comes to a stop, I have replaced mostly everything in terms of brakes, the master cyl, brake booster, front brake hoses, calipers/pads/rotors, and brake booster, and I have bled it more times than i would like to admit. It seemed to always have a braking issue since I purchased the car earlier this year, but at least it was somewhat stiffer, but now I gotta pump the brakes each time i wanna stop. May I get some ideas please? I don't know what else it would be, thank you.
have you checked anything on the rear brakes?? possible leaky wheel cylinders? rear brakes way out of adjustment??
did you bleed the master before you installed it? installed reputable master cylinder?
Almost sounds like air in the system
did you bleed the master before you installed it? installed reputable master cylinder?
Almost sounds like air in the system
If you have no leaks, rear brake shoes adjusted properly and no air in the system you are down to the proportioning valve after the master cylinder you replaced based on your description of the issue. They don't fail often so you may have missed something. If the calipers are switched sides the bleeder will be at the bottom and you will never get the air out.
Geez, xd I checked last night to see how the calipers were placed and yes they were upside down. Idk if it was ignorance or what but I spent this morning swapping the calipers, doing some adjustments to the pedal and switching the check valve for the booster since it caused my car to get a hard pedal. After alot of cursing, a stripped bleeder screw which I then swapped, and some time and patience I managed to get the brakes to a very good level. Somewhat squishy but alot more powerful and I can definitely drive it around and floor it and stop without worrying as much. Most likely need to adjust the pedal some more or the rod that grabs from the booster onto the pedal itself. Otherwise, thank you guys alot! Now I know better, thanks again!
Thanks for the posting the fix. Swapping the sides of the calipers has happened on here, so I'm glad it was a simple fix.
I've found that gravity bleeing with a clear hose gets most of the air out. If you use a length of hose that runs higher than the master cylinder level, you can allow air to escape without draing fluid, because the fluid level will not rise above the master cylinder fluid level. Hope this makes sense.
I've found that gravity bleeing with a clear hose gets most of the air out. If you use a length of hose that runs higher than the master cylinder level, you can allow air to escape without draing fluid, because the fluid level will not rise above the master cylinder fluid level. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks for the posting the fix. Swapping the sides of the calipers has happened on here, so I'm glad it was a simple fix.
I've found that gravity bleeing with a clear hose gets most of the air out. If you use a length of hose that runs higher than the master cylinder level, you can allow air to escape without draing fluid, because the fluid level will not rise above the master cylinder fluid level. Hope this makes sense.
I've found that gravity bleeing with a clear hose gets most of the air out. If you use a length of hose that runs higher than the master cylinder level, you can allow air to escape without draing fluid, because the fluid level will not rise above the master cylinder fluid level. Hope this makes sense.
You are close on what I meant. The top of the hose just has to be higher than the master cylinder by elevation, so you can go straight up from the bleeder and tape to the rear window.
I've had good success by just gravity bleeding into a container until I see air bubbles stop leaving. That way you have some flow to push any air out.
I've had good success by just gravity bleeding into a container until I see air bubbles stop leaving. That way you have some flow to push any air out.
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