My 1994 Accord stalls out once warm. When driving all of a sudden the CEL comes on and the engine stops. Generally, after a short period of time the car can be restarted but runs rough then stalls again. It will stall when coming to a stop and sometimes when driving.

Today I started it up and let it idle and after 12 minutes it stalled. I was able to restart it immediately and after a less than a minute it stalled. After it stalled I can hear what sounds like a buzzing coming from the dashboard..something like an electrical buzz or relay. The dash lights flicker. I continued the testing and later the same issue occured but the car sputtered when idling, the CEL came on and the D4 light started blinking before it stalled and the intermittant buzzing started again.

As for recent work performed on the car, it was recently tuned up with new O2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor rotor and distributor cap. A month prior to the tune up the AC compressor seized up and failed. Three months before that the car was stalling intermittantly and again running rough. At that time the Temp Sensor, Main Relay, and Ignition Switch were replaced. Also, an old car alarm was disconnected.

That's the history. Any solid ideas on what is the problem and how to fix? Thanks!

 

When the check engine light turns on, does is stay on, or does it turn on for about two seconds?

I would check for codes. In the common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help forum, there is a link to checking engine codes. Post any codes you find on here.

 

Thanks for the info PAhonda. I just checked the code using the two-pin blue connector. The CEL did not blink. The D4 light produced a code of 14 (one long and 4 short flashes).

 

That code is typically for a faulty ECU. I would suggest looking at car-part.com for a used engine computer. You can sort the results by distance or by price. You may find a reasonably priced ECU in your area.

 

Let me add to the intrigue. I reset the ECM by pulling the under hood 7.5A Radio/BackUp fuse, waited, and reinstalled. I then re-checked for codes. I don't get any code from the CEL (MIL) nor from D4. The CEL stays on constant. I do get an ABS code (one long and two short). Yes, the ABS light has been on for sometime. And, the Temp gauge needle has gone to the top pin position for quite some time. Dangerous but the mechanic said its only the gauge.

I then checked the fuses in the under dash/driver's side fuse box. All appeared ok.

I then started the engine and let it idle. After a 4 mintues I decided to look under the hood to see if either of the two fans were spinning. Neither fan was rotating. Is that normal? I shut the engine off as I didn't like the fact neither fan was spinning. Your ideas and comment will be appreciated.

 

Here's a bit more data. I started the engine up again. I let it idle as I read the radiator fan won't turn on until a particular temperature is reached. I didn't worry about the A/C fan since the AC is off (failed compressor). After 18 minutes of idling the radiator fan kicked in. I continued to let it idle. At the 20 minutes mark the engine stopped....just as it has done in the past. I tried restarting the engine. It started and stalled. I immediatley rechecked for codes. No flashing CEL. Just solid CEL. No D4 flashing. ABS flashes one long and two short.

 

When I obtain a used replacement ECU (37820-POA-A51) will it have to first be reprogrammed by the dealer?

 

The ECU does not need to be programmed, because there is no immobilizer in those accords.

As for the fans, both fans should turn on. Start the car and turn on the a/c. Both fans should turn on. If the a/c fan does not turn on, it the fan motor with the handle of a screwdriver. See if the fan turns on.

 

ceck the sodering joints on on the ignition switch located on the sterring colum maybe. had something similar like this happen to me.