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1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?

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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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Default 1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?

Please have a look on the attached pictures.

One Green color single wire is attached to this sensor and it broke today .

Same sensor is attached to VTEC solenoid as well.

Will it let the car start/run or no? Also, can I fix it by myself because wire kind broke, right at sensor edge
 
Attached Thumbnails 1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?-2013-07-13_15-52-03_969.jpg   1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?-2013-07-13_15-51-49_914.jpg   1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?-2013-07-13_15-51-40_42.jpg  
Old Jul 13, 2013 | 11:14 PM
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That is the connector for the VTEC valve, which is part of the VTEC control solenoid valve assembly.

The car should be able to start and run like that; however, it will affect the VTEC operation which would normally occur at higher engine speeds (around 2,300 - 3,200 rpms, depending on manifold pressure) and under other conditions.

That connector plug is a little different than other types of connectors which have terminals that can be pushed out/released with a tool to repair the wire connection. -- Your best bet might be to go get the plug from a salvage yard and splice the grn/wht wire to the replacement connector.
 
Old Jul 14, 2013 | 08:40 AM
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Thanks so much, I some how was able to repair it.

But I am using a regular electric wire with almost the same number of wire thickness as of original green wire of the sensor. Then I wrapped duck tape around the electric wire and installed it. Will the regular electric wire would last or melt in the engine heat?

Anyway, I can tell if it's repaired right or no? Because else I have to a boneyeard and pull it.
 
Old Jul 14, 2013 | 10:13 AM
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Well fire the car up and go for a drive it and see if the vtec is working?

The wire should be fine for a temp "fix".
 
Old Jul 14, 2013 | 12:45 PM
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Thanks again, so far it seems like temporary fix is working fine because duck tape is probably keeping the electric wire safe from the heat of the motor.

I am planning to go to a junkyard to pull the sensor, distributor key, as well as temperature sending unit.
 
Old Jul 14, 2013 | 01:09 PM
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At the very least butt connector the wire in instead of just taping it.

 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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Thanks so much for the picture and response.

You mean, wherever I have used electrical tape, use butt connector instead of the tape? Or use butt connector only at the wire splice and rest tape is fine?

Because I am using nearly 4 inches of electrical wire spliced with the green sensor wire. Then I have wrapped duck tape around the wire joint, as well as all ONLY electrical wire area.
 
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 09:04 AM
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If I am understanding correctly you twisted the two wires together then taped over it right?

The right answer is to solder and heat shrink it. But the butt connector is a good second choice. With high engine temps and moisture the duct tape will lose its stickiness over time and fall off leaving a bare wire.

Is the wire you spliced in not insulated(rubber/plastic coating on it)?
 
Old Jul 15, 2013 | 10:58 AM
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Solder the wire for a good connections.

Heat-shrink tubing would be best.

Electrical tape next, but engine-bay temperatures will probably soften the adhesive and it'll come unwrapped.

Duct tape will eventually get hard, brittle, and porous to water. It'll maybe allow electrical short through the cracked-up tape.
 
Old Jul 17, 2013 | 09:58 AM
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It's so 'REFRESHING' when you know, you are listening to people who EXACTLY know what they are talking about

Yes, actually connection got loose in '4' days and I got a CEL yesterday.

So I pulled the duct tape and again twisted both wires together and CEL disappeared Now, no more duct tape on the splice.

Also, wire I spliced does have a rubber insulation on it and it's a normal electrical cord/wire.

Unfortunately, I do not have a solder rod or any means to solder

Can I just use heat shrink tubing or butt connector is my best bet? If so, any specific brand to survive in the engine heat?
 

Last edited by faran; Jul 17, 2013 at 10:03 AM.



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