1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?
#1
1994 EX---What is this sensor and will it let the car run?
Please have a look on the attached pictures.
One Green color single wire is attached to this sensor and it broke today .
Same sensor is attached to VTEC solenoid as well.
Will it let the car start/run or no? Also, can I fix it by myself because wire kind broke, right at sensor edge
One Green color single wire is attached to this sensor and it broke today .
Same sensor is attached to VTEC solenoid as well.
Will it let the car start/run or no? Also, can I fix it by myself because wire kind broke, right at sensor edge
#2
That is the connector for the VTEC valve, which is part of the VTEC control solenoid valve assembly.
The car should be able to start and run like that; however, it will affect the VTEC operation which would normally occur at higher engine speeds (around 2,300 - 3,200 rpms, depending on manifold pressure) and under other conditions.
That connector plug is a little different than other types of connectors which have terminals that can be pushed out/released with a tool to repair the wire connection. -- Your best bet might be to go get the plug from a salvage yard and splice the grn/wht wire to the replacement connector.
The car should be able to start and run like that; however, it will affect the VTEC operation which would normally occur at higher engine speeds (around 2,300 - 3,200 rpms, depending on manifold pressure) and under other conditions.
That connector plug is a little different than other types of connectors which have terminals that can be pushed out/released with a tool to repair the wire connection. -- Your best bet might be to go get the plug from a salvage yard and splice the grn/wht wire to the replacement connector.
#3
Thanks so much, I some how was able to repair it.
But I am using a regular electric wire with almost the same number of wire thickness as of original green wire of the sensor. Then I wrapped duck tape around the electric wire and installed it. Will the regular electric wire would last or melt in the engine heat?
Anyway, I can tell if it's repaired right or no? Because else I have to a boneyeard and pull it.
But I am using a regular electric wire with almost the same number of wire thickness as of original green wire of the sensor. Then I wrapped duck tape around the electric wire and installed it. Will the regular electric wire would last or melt in the engine heat?
Anyway, I can tell if it's repaired right or no? Because else I have to a boneyeard and pull it.
#5
Thanks again, so far it seems like temporary fix is working fine because duck tape is probably keeping the electric wire safe from the heat of the motor.
I am planning to go to a junkyard to pull the sensor, distributor key, as well as temperature sending unit.
I am planning to go to a junkyard to pull the sensor, distributor key, as well as temperature sending unit.
#7
Thanks so much for the picture and response.
You mean, wherever I have used electrical tape, use butt connector instead of the tape? Or use butt connector only at the wire splice and rest tape is fine?
Because I am using nearly 4 inches of electrical wire spliced with the green sensor wire. Then I have wrapped duck tape around the wire joint, as well as all ONLY electrical wire area.
You mean, wherever I have used electrical tape, use butt connector instead of the tape? Or use butt connector only at the wire splice and rest tape is fine?
Because I am using nearly 4 inches of electrical wire spliced with the green sensor wire. Then I have wrapped duck tape around the wire joint, as well as all ONLY electrical wire area.
#8
If I am understanding correctly you twisted the two wires together then taped over it right?
The right answer is to solder and heat shrink it. But the butt connector is a good second choice. With high engine temps and moisture the duct tape will lose its stickiness over time and fall off leaving a bare wire.
Is the wire you spliced in not insulated(rubber/plastic coating on it)?
The right answer is to solder and heat shrink it. But the butt connector is a good second choice. With high engine temps and moisture the duct tape will lose its stickiness over time and fall off leaving a bare wire.
Is the wire you spliced in not insulated(rubber/plastic coating on it)?
#9
Solder the wire for a good connections.
Heat-shrink tubing would be best.
Electrical tape next, but engine-bay temperatures will probably soften the adhesive and it'll come unwrapped.
Duct tape will eventually get hard, brittle, and porous to water. It'll maybe allow electrical short through the cracked-up tape.
Heat-shrink tubing would be best.
Electrical tape next, but engine-bay temperatures will probably soften the adhesive and it'll come unwrapped.
Duct tape will eventually get hard, brittle, and porous to water. It'll maybe allow electrical short through the cracked-up tape.
#10
It's so 'REFRESHING' when you know, you are listening to people who EXACTLY know what they are talking about
Yes, actually connection got loose in '4' days and I got a CEL yesterday.
So I pulled the duct tape and again twisted both wires together and CEL disappeared Now, no more duct tape on the splice.
Also, wire I spliced does have a rubber insulation on it and it's a normal electrical cord/wire.
Unfortunately, I do not have a solder rod or any means to solder
Can I just use heat shrink tubing or butt connector is my best bet? If so, any specific brand to survive in the engine heat?
Yes, actually connection got loose in '4' days and I got a CEL yesterday.
So I pulled the duct tape and again twisted both wires together and CEL disappeared Now, no more duct tape on the splice.
Also, wire I spliced does have a rubber insulation on it and it's a normal electrical cord/wire.
Unfortunately, I do not have a solder rod or any means to solder
Can I just use heat shrink tubing or butt connector is my best bet? If so, any specific brand to survive in the engine heat?
Last edited by faran; 07-17-2013 at 10:03 AM.