OK
I have a 1994 1993 (oops wrong year) Honda accord LX 2.2L that has an occasional no start problem.
When this first started to happen about a year ago I notice that the D4 light would flash. As long as the D4 light flashed the car would not start. However, I could wait and the D4 Light would eventually not flash and the car would start. Sometimes it was just a few hours and sometimes a few days. When the car is running everything seems to work fine there is a small jerk (not sure if jerk is the right word) when it shifts from first to second and second to third but not what I'd call a hard shift. Other than that it works great. I pulled the error codes and I got 1, 2, 7, 8 and 14. I have been doing a lot of reading and have found similar issues and given the way the car runs when i figured it was the TCU. So I replaced it. It worked great for about 5 months then the problem returned I had read that some folks had a second TCU go bad and given mine was still under warranty I ordered a replacement. I installed the second new one and the D4 light flashed immediately and the car would not start. My battery had drained while I was waiting on the part so I put it on the charger. while the battery was charging i did some more reading and saw that the 14 code could be thrown by a bad main relay. so I pulled the relay and tested it and the harness everything tested good. After the battery charged I tried to start the car. No D4 light and the car started and ran great for about a month. This weekend the problem returned. I tested the solenoids because of the 1, 2, 7, and 8 codes and they sound good. So got a hold of the Honda Accord 1990 - 1993 Maintenance & Repair Manual and start working through the troubleshooting trees I tested continuity of the brn/wht wire and the green black I checked for voltage at the grn/blk wire and at first got nothing and then got a low reading of 2.48 v I think the book the book says it should be 4.75 to 5.25. so I thought I had a bad wire but the continuity test shows it is good. frustrated I plugged every thing back together and the car started right up. Out of curiosity I pulled the codes again to see if anything change and now I am getting a 3 code as well. I took the car to work today and everything is working again. I keep thinking this is an electrical problem given how well the car runs when it starts. but I really don't know anymore. I plan on testing the throttle position sensor next since the 3 code came up after that I am at a loss.

 

Is the check engine light flashing the code? Or is the D4 light flashing the code?

 

Just the D4 light there are no code flashing on the check engine light

 

If you still have the D4 flashing a code 14, then I think the ECU is the actual problem.

 

I checked inside the ECU and it looks good no fried parts no leaking capacitors. My eyes aren't what they used to but but shouldn't I be able to see an issue?

 

I found a rather inexpensive ECU that matched my part number on eBay. So I went a ahead and bought it. Is there any thing I should know about installation? is it just plug and go or is there programing needed? the 93 accord uses a standard key so there shouldn't be an immobilizer, right?

 

Installation is just plug and play.

Another moderator had an ECU problem. When inspecting the board, he couldn't see an obvious problem. I'm sure if you search the web, you can find posts/pictures of problem areas on these circuit boards.

 

Great. I really didn't want to mess with programming if I didn't have to. I have done many searches and I have seen the circuit boards which is why I hadn't replaced the ECU yet. Well, I'll let you know if the replacement clears the codes or not. right now the car is running fine but the codes are still there.

 

I replaced the ECU today and took it for a good long drive. I came home and pulled the codes 1, 2, 3, 7, 8 and 14 still there. Then Realized the codes were most likely stored in the TCU and I had not reset it. So, I disconnected the battery and waited 10 minuets. I pulled the codes and the were no codes. This is good because it is the first time the codes have cleared on a reset. I took it for another test drive a little shorter this time then pulled the codes. The 14 code came back. but the others are gone.

So what else will throw the 14 code. I have replaced the TCU & ECU. tested the main relay, tested the main relay harness and tested the wires between the TCU & ECU that the troubleshooting tree said could be the culprit. Am I missing something or is my transmission going bad?

 

Is the check engine light flashing the code 14, or is the D4 light flashing a code 14?