I had the car stalling while driving down the road problem then it would start after i waited a few minutes.

Purchased a ICM and went through the dizzy problems of removal!
Found screw OK and took it out then rotor was stuck- rust- and it got broke and then came out. I installed new rotor the Ign. ctr. Modual and put it back together and now no spark.

Here are my questions:

I read about check fuses they are two boxes one under the hood and one on the side pannel on driver side near hood release (What fueses do I check?) maybe I blew one working on the rotor.

I checked the ground on G101 and cleaned it and the battery.
Still I get no spark when I put the main coil wire on steel when cranking.

I can not find the trouble code port so I can jump it and do the key test . any one know where to find it? book said pass side under dash could use a picture.

How to I check the Coil ?

What next?

 

First suggest downloading the 94-97 Accord manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum. This has pics and procedure to check coil.

You check the resistance of primary and secondary coils. The primary, A (Blk/yel) -B (Blu) wires to coil should be disconnected for testing.

Primary resistance is practically a short; 0.4-0.6 ohms, and secondary is very high; 22-34 kohms. Usually secondary is one that will have internal shorts, but primary could be open also. Secondary post is the coil output post. Check resistance between A post and Secondary post.

good luck

 

50 amp under hood pass side it is good!

I have a 94 but my coil looks like the V6 coil outside of the dizzy. The one difference is it has 3 wires not 4

 

I thought all the Vtec's were EX trim, but maybe not.

If you have an external coil, there are 4-pin connectors. If you look at coil connector the four pins are A-C upper row nears the latch, and B-D lower row furtherest from the latch. Check primary resistance at A-B, 0.6.-0.8 ohms and secondary between A and coil output terminal; 14-22 kohms.

I'm glad your 50A fuse is good.

good luck

 

Figured that out. The books we showing the dizzy with the Coil inside. Through me for a loop.

I did the Ohm test risistance between A & C is 1.2 on the reader set at 200 ohms it beeps on this setting. My book says should be between 0.3-0.4 ohms ( Is this failure?)

Test between A & Secondary Terminal is 17.5 when set at 200K on the ohm dial. my manual says should be between 14,000 - 22,000 ohms

Still learning this tester I hope I am correct?

If the coil is bad then I can move forward. I did get a rotor at the parts store and it looks a little different then old one. I think they asked if v-tec and I said yes. I saw an exact match tonight at parts store and it was the same and had a copper tip one now is silver. But they are both close. Could this be the problem. The car had spark and after I changed the ICM and put this rotor on no spark?

 

Found this:

Resistance in Ohms:
Primary 200 Scale .5 - 1.1
Secondary 200 Scale 16.0k - 22.0k

My motor says RHN2-2VJGFFA

2.2L

What is the difference from F22b1 & F22b2 Engine

 

Primary is checked between A-B. A-C should show a dead short (0 ohms). Resistances this low can be problematic and calibration of the meter may prevent accurate readings.

Do you have a lower range (0-20K ohms) to measure secondary? This will be more accurate, but looks like secondary is OK.

F22B1 is Vtec engine and F22b2 is non-vtec. Not sure why the Vtec requires a different distributor from the non-vtec; perhaps higher combustion pressures at high rpms?

good luck

 

I found the jumper under the dask see link with pictures.


CEL Check Engine Light

Fault code 15 Ignition Output Siginal shows up.

This makes since because I get no power to the ICM when checking from battery ground to ICM.

Maybe I check Igniter?

Ground at Thermostate?

Black & yellow wire for short?

Maybe ignition switch?


Next step?

 

As you suspect, check your ignitor installation carefully and ground to distributor.

Also check that you are getting 12v on blk/yel wire to the distributor when keyswitch is On. A failing keyswitch can cause intemittent engine stoppage.

good luck

 

Maybe I own a half-bread Car.

Need to clairfy things.

My dizzy look different then the manuals.

screws; one is diamagnetic this is new to me and the picture looks different then what I have?

It is sort of like the Hitachi however different cap and rotor.

Other common thing I see is ICM and ignitor are the same thing?

Fig. 8: Terminal identification on engines without VTEC



tryed to up load picture not sure if worked?

going to garage to look for bad connections

What about the ignition switch this fails I read also ?