1995 Accord misfire at low RPM
#1
1995 Accord misfire at low RPM
I have a 1995 Accord 2.2L, non-VTEC,auto, with 185,000miles on it. The problem I'm having is that from idle to about 2500 rpm it misfires, after that it seems to run out ok. If I give it gas after that rpm range, it will bog down and stumble, then clear out. It idles very rough under an A/C load also.
I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor and the spark plugs. I'm running Autolite plug wires that are about 7 years old. I did a resistance test with a multimeter and they checked ok according to what specs I found online. I have looked over the wires and ignition components and haven't seen anything out of the ordinary (like a burnt wire).
I have searched several threads concerning this and have come up with a lot of different problems it could be. But I don't want to throw money and parts at it with out logically understanding where to start.
My obvious choice would to be to replace the plug wires. But then what do I do? The 'search' suggestions lead to fuel injection problems, EGR valve, or and ECU problem. I'm not sure where to start.
Any suggestions?
I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor and the spark plugs. I'm running Autolite plug wires that are about 7 years old. I did a resistance test with a multimeter and they checked ok according to what specs I found online. I have looked over the wires and ignition components and haven't seen anything out of the ordinary (like a burnt wire).
I have searched several threads concerning this and have come up with a lot of different problems it could be. But I don't want to throw money and parts at it with out logically understanding where to start.
My obvious choice would to be to replace the plug wires. But then what do I do? The 'search' suggestions lead to fuel injection problems, EGR valve, or and ECU problem. I'm not sure where to start.
Any suggestions?
#4
Your 95 is OBD-I, you don't need a reader - just a paperclip in the service connector.
Cleaning the EGR and ports/chamber doesn't cost much - check the "Common DIY and Info Threads" sticky at the top for a how to on the egr port cleaning.
Next on my list would be the O2 sensor - even without a code they can get lazy and cause issues.
Cleaning the EGR and ports/chamber doesn't cost much - check the "Common DIY and Info Threads" sticky at the top for a how to on the egr port cleaning.
Next on my list would be the O2 sensor - even without a code they can get lazy and cause issues.
#5
Suggest also checking for intake air leaks; vacuum lines, PCV valve/hose clean/functioning, vacuum brake line sound, intake manifold leaks (spray throttle body cleaner at seams and listen for engine speed change).
Also check converter for damage by shaking the converter vigorously and listening for loose/damaged matrix.
A more difficult check, if other possibilities fail, is to disconnect exhaust head of catalytic converter and check performance. If improved, the converter is blocked.
good luck
Also check converter for damage by shaking the converter vigorously and listening for loose/damaged matrix.
A more difficult check, if other possibilities fail, is to disconnect exhaust head of catalytic converter and check performance. If improved, the converter is blocked.
good luck
#6
When I paper clipped the connector, the CEL came on and stayed on. So I'm assuming it's a "no code" situation? Or is this a 'code 0', which according to my Haynes manual is a "bad ECU'.
I also sprayed for vacuum leaks. Nothing spotted. Also cleaned and checked the PCV valve.
I watched a couple of 'Dave the Car Guy' vidoes for cleaning the EGR ports, so I will try that after work tonight.
Thanks again for the help.
I also sprayed for vacuum leaks. Nothing spotted. Also cleaned and checked the PCV valve.
I watched a couple of 'Dave the Car Guy' vidoes for cleaning the EGR ports, so I will try that after work tonight.
Thanks again for the help.
#8
egr only activates with open throttle.If the valve sticks open or closed you will get a code and if the ports are plugged the car will never know at an idle.I passed emition test for 2 years with clogged egr ports and a broken egr valve.I cleared the cell and drove 20 miles easy on the throttle.computer had no idea it was broke and it ran smooth.Check for oil or water in the spark plug ports.
#9
I followed Mad Matt's advice and checked the spark plug ports for oil. There was oil in a couple of them. But one in particular had a lot more than the others. I put on a FelPro valve cover gasket set. Note, I said set. With the set you get the gasket and o-rings for the spark plug ports. The bad o-rings were leaking oil into the spark plug ports. Causing the misfire by oil getting on the spark plug wire and plug and then shorting or grounding out. (not sure how to phrase that).
So, I know I should have seen that when I changed the plugs earlier, but I over looked it. Lesson learned I guess.
I took it on a small drive and everything seems fine. I will take it on a longer drive tomorrow and report back if it's still ok.
Thanks for the help. Dan
So, I know I should have seen that when I changed the plugs earlier, but I over looked it. Lesson learned I guess.
I took it on a small drive and everything seems fine. I will take it on a longer drive tomorrow and report back if it's still ok.
Thanks for the help. Dan