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-   -   1996 2.2L VTec misfire/stumble (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/1996-2-2l-vtec-misfire-stumble-53821/)

Muskiebri 03-25-2013 01:59 PM

1996 2.2L VTec misfire/stumble
 
Hi Guys. My '96 Accord coupe EX 5 speed misses occasionally during acceleration. The miss isn't terrible, but it bugs me (I hate to just "turn up the radio" and ignore it). Seems to happen more when engine is warm, and not necessarily when engine is "lugging" (has happened on a slow/gentle acceleration). It's intermittent, so I don't know if the dealer will detect it.

I replaced plugs, wires, distrib cap, rotor, coil and air filter. Also checked timing and cleaned injectors. 25k on the timing belt. Any thoughts? Ign Ctrl Module? Sensor? No codes. Live data on scanner looks good. 185,000 miles.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Brian

Muskiebri 03-25-2013 03:35 PM

Addition
 
I forgot to mention I'm also going to clean IACV, and I need to read up on cleaning EGR components.

firefighter44 03-25-2013 04:41 PM

Iacv and egr are very easy!

poorman212 03-25-2013 08:29 PM

If you "floor" the car, does the same issue happen?

At around 45 MPH and steady throttle, car at op temp....do you feel the stumble? Better yet, notice/watch the rpm range when this happens.

Yes, clogged egr ports are high on the list. The egr ports are the ones under the fuel injectors.....in the egr chamber.

Muskiebri 03-28-2013 10:33 PM

Before I replaced all the stuff mentioned above, the stumble occurred most often at ~2200 rpm, and mostly slowly accelerating thru 2nd & 3rd gear. After the tune-up, it shifted higher, to around 3500 (cruising, light load). Then I pulled the egr (which was surprisingly clean) and cleaned it, the iacv and fitv. That didn't seem to make a diff. Then I read about the re-learn process, and that helped a lot. It still misses once in a while, usually running steady, under light load around 2800-3500. Hard accelerations are rock solid. It almost feels like a lean misfire at light loads to me. I ran a can of seafoam thru the tank also. It makes great power. The occasional miss I'm left with may just have to get worse before I can figure it out. I really appreciate your responses and input. Brian

Muskiebri 03-28-2013 10:36 PM

Also, this only happens at operating temp.

Roader 03-28-2013 11:00 PM


Originally Posted by Muskiebri (Post 316529)
Then I pulled the egr (which was surprisingly clean) and cleaned it...

The four EGR ports were clean and open?

poorman212 03-29-2013 06:32 PM

Five ports roader

One from the valve and one to each intake runner :)

I know, splitting hairs.

firefighter44 03-29-2013 06:43 PM

i was thinking on the same track, sounds like the op is saying he removed and cleaned the egr valve but not the ports and runner.

we need some verification on this op

poorman212 03-29-2013 06:47 PM

2 Attachment(s)
OP- the egr "ports" on these need to be cleaned every now and then.

There are several write ups on "how to" do this...the fuel rail has to come off. I suggest new o-rings for the top of the injectors but that is me.

Here are mine when I did this a while back.....three of the four to the intake were done...two were totally blocked, the third was just hanging in.

The red arrow is the "port" from the valve...you are there, clean it. The yellow are the ones to the intake runners.

firefighter44 03-29-2013 06:58 PM

So poorman i see you separated the injectors from the fuel rail, i was just wondering if you had any issues with air in the fuel system afterwards as i always leave the injectors in the rail and separate them at the bottom side.

Either way original poster it is a very easy procedure.

poorman212 03-29-2013 07:18 PM

Personal pref.....since there is like 40 psi in the fuel system, any air in the fuel system will be gone in about 1/2 second.

The real worry is an air leak/fuel leak around the injector.......pulling the rail from the injectors, I only have to worry about a fuel leak into the injector....fire, fire, fire :)....EDIT: If you pull the injectors from the intake, then the worry is an air leak around the lower seal(s) of the injector(s).

Hence, why I highly suggest new o-rings for the top of the injectors.....at the dealer they are $2 a piece.....so $8 in o-rings......call it a day.

Again, just the way I do it. Others do it their way.....I hate chasing a weird idle issue, a leak at the top of an injector is pretty easy to see/smell. A leak from the lower seal(s) and you spend forever chasing the idle....Just me.

firefighter44 03-30-2013 08:00 AM

I hear ya, that makes sense!

Muskiebri 04-01-2013 07:47 AM


Originally Posted by Roader (Post 316532)
The four EGR ports were clean and open?

Good catch... I did not check and clean the ports. I'll dig up the "how to" on that.

Great picture Poorman. That helps.

Thank you very much guys! I'll provide an update when I clean those ports.

Brian

poorman212 04-01-2013 07:49 PM

Here is a link from the "Common DIY Threads" sticky at the top of this section: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...56/#post245852

or this one as well: 95AccordEGR

The pic's from hondadude are even better.....and he leaves the injectors in the intake as well :) guess where my personal pref came from? :)

Muskiebri 04-02-2013 08:00 AM

Thanks Poorman, that made it easy!

This is my first Honda at age 50. I recently picked up the 17 yr old car for $500, hoping to drive it 26 miles to work (so we could park the 12 mpg 3/4 ton Yukon XL). The Accord was really rough, especially the interior. I put an additional $2300 into it and everyone called me crazy. Well, now it's in pretty decent condition and I'm smiling all the way to work. This board has been a great resource for me to bring this baby back to life! Thanks to all.

Brian

firefighter44 04-02-2013 11:35 AM

That is really cool to hear that you brought it back to life, and im glad we could help make it happen.

Muskiebri 04-21-2013 09:19 PM

Well I finally got the EGR ports and housing all cleaned out. Each port was open, but about half blocked. The EGR housing was only finger tight, if that. I'm guessing a leak could have contributed to some rough running. Did the relearn thing afterward and she runs much better. Thanks to all who posted instructions! Priceless!!

rob.c1989 04-22-2013 06:10 PM

i had a similar problem with my 96 ex. i replaced the icm, ign coil, cap and wires and the stumble was still there. i got to thinking that maybe there is a stored code in the ecu, so i pulled the ecu fuse, and disconnected the negative side of the battery for about 10 minutes and hooked it back up, and the stumble went away.


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