Guys

I'm sorry that I just kind of rolled out and never gave a final update on what the issue was...

It still won't start, I honestly just got so fed up that I had to take a break. My sister has been letting us borrow her truck and my girl has just been driving the Vette.
The car is now at my work because it will still start up fine in the afternoons and run perfect, it's still just before about 10:00 am the thing just will not fire.

I will do the timing light test again here on Monday along with the icm and ignition switch. I did try some starting fluid last week in the throttle bud with no luck but I'll try it again.

I also got a used working coil from one of the wrecking yards that would let me try and it return if it didnt' work..no luck.

I'll update again early next week and let you guys know what I come up with.

Thank you again to everyone,

Donnie

I'm having issues starting a 97 but that's a different thread. When it's cold and not starting you may want to try warming things up with a hair dryer to see if it helps. I would try inside the distributer. There are sensors in there that are supposed to sense when the distributer is spinning. I had one on a Jeep that was intermittent, I couldn't find the issue until it was dead which never was when it was in my driveway. Just a thought to try and narrow down the issue. At least you have a difinitive time that it is not working. I think your motor has 2 or 3 sensors inside the distributor. If it works after heating it with the cap off it may be worth while to get a whole distributor from a bone yard.

Hey man,

Thanks for the idea, it's worth a shot. I'll try it

Donnie

Quick question and I'll post all results tomorrow.

Where do I hook up a fuel pressure gauge? I was able to rent one for free from autozone but I don't know where to put it on the fuel rail??

Thank you,

Donnie

There is a bolt on top of the fuel rail towards the driver's side that you would have to unbolt.

The problem is that honda doesn't have the standard schrader valve. I am not sure if the autozone one has a threaded adapter on the pressure gauge

PA,

Yes, it does have about 4 or 5 attachments for the end of the hose and all are threaded.

Is it the little brass bolt? Do I just take off the top brass part or unscrew the whole "valve" out of the fuel rail?

Thank you,

Donnie

Well looks like you are correct PA.

The gauge that autozone rents out has one fitting that is the correct thread pitch but it is too long and bottoms out before it is fully seated in the fuel rail.

I wonder if there is a fitting that i can buy that has the correct holes in it as an adapter at the hardware store..

You can take out the little brass bolt on the top, or the entire valve from the rail. If you have a larger adapter that will thread directly into the rail, then try that.

Otherwise, you can try to find a thick rubber washer to take up fill up the gap on the smaller threaded bolt.

The adapter that does have the correct thread pitch is too long and will bottom out before it is fully screwed in..

the main issue is that the adapter that bolts directly into the rail(not the little bolt hole in the top) has two holes through the actual center of the threads..I can post a picture of it if i'm not making sense.

I mean there is the hole that goes right through the center of the whole entire adapter. vertically inside the threads like a straw so to speak.

Then about half way up the threads, it's as if you drilled another hole through the threads but going horizontally..this is the part that i don't think a rubber washer will hold up to 45 psi or so on..

Could it help if I posted a picture of the gauge, hose and adapter that "should" work?

Thanks again and so ya guys know, the car still won't start in the morning..

The timing light does flash even when the car does not start on all 4 plug wires. I tried the starting fluid with no luck but I may give that another shot for the heck of it tomorrow morning as we're down to one car again.

The car is now back at my house so I can give a heat gun/hair dryer a try too.

All of the test with the backprobed coil wires checked out okay and I went ahead and got another used original coil that was tested good for 100 percent sure..

Get this, I put the tested coil in that I was able to get a hold of. No start.

I throw the old coil back in the next day IN THE MORNING and it fires right up!

The next morning, no start. Timing light flashes fine on all four wires..

uraceulose,

I'm going to throw my hat in the ring as well. I just picked up a 98 for $150 bucks. It's a long but good story, but for another time.

Here is what I've found on mine. Same intermittent starting problem.
1) Cranks but won't start, then some times it does and other times no.
Here is what I've found. On My ignition switch when I go to start I have power it turns over and tries to start as soon as I release the key. Nothing it's dead.

Now if while I'm cranking I hit the gas, depending where the key position is it will run. I've found that it's only a few millimeters difference between start and run and the car not starting. I would look at your ingnition switch again. It's the one thing that you haven't really dug into yet and it's something you have to do the same every time the same way to get the same result. If that makes sense.

Hold the key in start position and ever so gently let it come back out of the start position. Mine runs when I do that. once running, i just touch the key and WHAM it's dead.

I know that you said you just replaced it. But bad parts are bad parts. This doesn't cost you anything to check. It's just a thought.

Good Luck!

(Back Ground 22 year Aircraft Mechanic, 30 year shade tree mechanic...lol)