ICM is inside the distributor & some AutoZone-type stores can test it. And I think there's something in the DIY section about "coil vs ignitor" testing. Something about connecting a test lamp somewhere but I never had to do that on my cars.

Jim,

Thanks! I've been in the DIY section the last hour or so. I'll search around for that write-up. My girl doesn't get back for a few hours with the other car so I've just got to figure out what to go buy by the time she gets back...

I've never timed a 4 cyl little car like this before...I have 68 camaro and 00 corvette so both are V8's and firing order is completely different.

How should the timing light be firing on these little 4 cylinders? Really fast just like V8 or...?

Thanks,

Donnie

Timing light just like any engine. It's only clamped to ONE plug wire so RPM is RPM.

Cyl #1 is at the pulley end.

Jim,

I plugged the timing light onto each individual spark plug wire...3 of them fired it off real good it seemed and one seemed like it fired the light a little bit slower in between flashes...?

I looked for that write up and I think I found it but I'm having a tough time understanding exactly how to test the ignition control module?

To test the coil, I basically pull one wire at a time off of the cap and check for the arc in between the cap and plug wire right?



Where is that ignition control module? I'm just thinking it's some type of module/relay because it's an intermittant issue that only seems to happen when the car is cold in the morning...the tach at one point did jump around kind of funny but it was months ago and was kind of a 1 or 2 time thing that has never happened since.


Thanks again for all the help, some how I'll get this thing going.

Donnie

There's 2 different distributors (EX or LX) but #8 is the ignitor (ignition control module) in both pictures.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...v401_e0511.png
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...v401_e0510.png

And here's the thread about coil vs. ignitor that I was thinking about.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ead.php?t=8767

Jim,

Thanks so much! I found the link to that address but I was still having a tough time.


I just can't figure out what to replace next...the car starts intermittantly.

This should coupled with the fact that I replaced the "ignition switch" less than 6 months ago should eliminate the ignition switch itself??


The coil/distributor also have 12 v power going to them with the key in "on" and it started so they're getting power in "start".

the timing light did flash but albeit not flashing like crazy, the coil should either be bad or good(can't be kinda bad I don't think?)

I DID NOT REPLACE THE ROTOR. I just didn't think it would be the cause, because it's only 2 years or so old. I will if you guys think it could be the issue??

That ignition control module seems as though it doesn't really go bad, that write said they are known to go 250K miles all the time(it also says "only replace with specific brand")

I'm not paying all the money for a honda factory part so do you guys know if any parts houses(autozone, kragen, chucks etc...) carry the correct ignition control module?

Like I said, the fuel pump turns on and I can hear it and smell fuel.

There's something stopping me from getting spark. When I get a helper here a little later, I'm going to test everything out again with the timing light and 12 v test light and see if it's getting spark from the coil to the cap and from each plug wire arcing over to the cap??

I only checked one plug pulled out sitting against a ground and did see a good blue spark from the electrode to the bolt I was using for ground...

I'm not too good with electrical stuff so that's why I'm just trying to cover my bases, make sure and not replace a bunch of stuff that has nothing to do with my issue.

Donnie


P.S. Thanks for that diagram, I'll see if I can figure out whether or not the ignition control module is bad as this seems like the most likely culprit or not???

I'm thinking either coil or ignition coil module? It just seems as if my coil is good though because it has spark and fires the timing light...?

But the it fires up intermittantly so how could it be the module?

I just checked that link, that's not the same one that I had found. Thank you! That one is easier to understand.

You're probably gonna have a hard time with that test because it's intermittent. The ignitor-vs-coil test is written for when the car NEVER starts.

Loose or corroded wire terminals at the ignitor or coil??

It HAS TO be some type of loose wire at the coil. This thing is so weird, would not start this morning when my girl went to leave. Told her take my car, I went down and tried myself with no luck.

Just went back out with a buddy a few mins ago..unplugged the coil and checked the light stayed on with the key in on and start position.

Hooked it back up and now it just started twice...

WTF is going on? lol

Guys,

If you had to guess one of the these three which would you guess...

1)coil

2)ignition switch again

3)ignition module



It is definitely getting power to the coil/distributor with the key in on and start(even when the car DOES NOT fire).

I jammed a 12v test light probe into the connector and checked again to be sure when I WAS HAVING THE PROBLEM.

Does this leave either the coil or the module?

Would the coil be good for sure if the timing light was firing on each cylinder when the car is cranking but not firing?

Thanks again for sticking with me and helping me out...

I'll get this thing going one way or another...

Donnie