1996 LX V6 ac problems
How much oil is in the system?
Also how much R134a did you add?
Here is how the test should be run:
Avoid direct sunlight (park in the shade).
Open Hood
Open front doors
Set temperature to max cool
Switch vent to recirculate
Turn on A/C
Turn blower to MAX
Run engine at 1500 rpm.
No driver or passenger in vehicle (you can increase the rpm at the throttle plate. Search zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube. At 4min 30 seconds he shows how to do this).
Run a/c for 10 minutes.
Tell us
1. The high pressure
2. The low side pressure
3. The temperature blowing out of the vents in the car. You will need a thermometer to do this.
Also how much R134a did you add?
Here is how the test should be run:
Avoid direct sunlight (park in the shade).
Open Hood
Open front doors
Set temperature to max cool
Switch vent to recirculate
Turn on A/C
Turn blower to MAX
Run engine at 1500 rpm.
No driver or passenger in vehicle (you can increase the rpm at the throttle plate. Search zUpXgAJ1gjU on YouTube. At 4min 30 seconds he shows how to do this).
Run a/c for 10 minutes.
Tell us
1. The high pressure
2. The low side pressure
3. The temperature blowing out of the vents in the car. You will need a thermometer to do this.
You may be causing a problem as pressures should be taken w/ both of the service valves closed. This isolates your AC system from center connection of manifold. If you open both lo and hi sides, you've interconnected the system. This will cause low performance or none at all. If center manifold is not capped you would lose refrigerant.
good luck
good luck
Oil was add to all the new parts according to alldatapro specs.
21.7 oz is what it says under the hood for the 2.7 bought a 22oz.
I did the test like you have explained, dont have a temp gauge, so I'm not sure on that.
Alldata said to have both gauges open with car running.
But I will do it again with them closed.
21.7 oz is what it says under the hood for the 2.7 bought a 22oz.
I did the test like you have explained, dont have a temp gauge, so I'm not sure on that.
Alldata said to have both gauges open with car running.
But I will do it again with them closed.
60 psi low 200 psi high,
Also if you don't keep the engine idle above 1k the compressor will cycle on/off at 75-85 psi
What the hells wrong with this car, never had so many problems out if one car.
Also if you don't keep the engine idle above 1k the compressor will cycle on/off at 75-85 psi
What the hells wrong with this car, never had so many problems out if one car.
Last edited by fbodyrs96; Aug 12, 2011 at 09:02 PM.
Was this checked w/ doors open in high temperatures as PaH suggested? If yes, then 60 psi on low side may be OK. At 60 psi, air leaving the register might be in the 60's, not too cool, but not bad if the inlet air is 90F or better w/ humid conditions.
Cycling suggests perhaps high side is getting too high causing hi/lo pressure switch to open. Were you monitoring high side when compressor disengaged?
good luck
Cycling suggests perhaps high side is getting too high causing hi/lo pressure switch to open. Were you monitoring high side when compressor disengaged?
good luck
Ok. Time to do some electrical testing using a volt meter.
Turn key to the II position, but don't start the car.
Unplug electrical connector to the pressure switch. Check that the red/wht wire has 12V to body ground.
Inside the car, make sure the blower is turned on and the a/c switch is turned on. Check that the blu/yel wire going to the pressure switch is a closed circuit to ground.
On the actual pressure switch, check that the two pins are a closed circuit (~zero resistance).
Let us know what you find.
Turn key to the II position, but don't start the car.
Unplug electrical connector to the pressure switch. Check that the red/wht wire has 12V to body ground.
Inside the car, make sure the blower is turned on and the a/c switch is turned on. Check that the blu/yel wire going to the pressure switch is a closed circuit to ground.
On the actual pressure switch, check that the two pins are a closed circuit (~zero resistance).
Let us know what you find.
are you opening the hi and low side at the same time. you don't have to open the gauges to get readings. if thats your readings on the last two pics . it looks like your hi side is to hi causing the low side to climb. try hosing down your condenser (cooling it off ) see if your low side drops under 40 and hi at no more than 200. these reading on the last two pic would be great if it was 150 degrees out side. also feel the hi side line coming out of the condenser (don't get burnt) should be warm not burning hot. you didn't over charge the system? It held 29 inches for how long with the pump shut off. air in the system can also cause these readings assuming I'm reading them right.
if your getting 60 on the low side then your freon is boiling off at about 56 degrees . cant cool a car with that reading
if your getting 60 on the low side then your freon is boiling off at about 56 degrees . cant cool a car with that reading


