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1996 LX V6 ac problems

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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:58 PM
  #31  
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That blu/yel wire is not getting ground, so now you know what part of the circuit is having a problem. Now you have to work backwards. Next is the a/c thermostat which is behind the glove box. You may want to remove the glove box. It is 4 screws on the bottom part of the hinge. The thermostat is #19 in the pic below.



Plug back in the pressure switch in the engine bay. Turn key to the II position, have the a/c switch turned on, and make sure the blower inside the car is turned on.

The a/c thermostat has three wires. Uplug the thermostat and do the electrical tests I list below:

1. blu/yel should have battery voltage to ground.
2. blk/yel should have battery voltage to ground.
3. blu/red should have continuity to ground.
 
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #32  
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i know the part you talking about, can see it when the glove box is open. just don't know when I will have time to look at again until this weekend, I work nights, and my wife works during the day and drives the accord so I can pick the kids up form school with the explorer so the have AC, way to hot for 3 kids with no AC...lol

but I will let you know what I find.

Thanks for the help so far.
 
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:54 PM
  #33  
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1. blu/yel 12V
2. blk/yel 12V
3. blu/red 204 ohm 1V

know what?
 
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:18 PM
  #34  
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For #3, did the volt meter beep when you checked for ground?
 
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #35  
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Nope.
 
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #36  
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Double check that blu/red reading. Make sure you are using a bare metal bolt as a ground. Try grounding that blu/red wire to see if the fan and compressor turn on. If it checks out, plug back in that connector.

The last part of the testing is the heater control panel and the a/c switch. If you downloaded that 94 shop manual, you will have to remove the center console and the radio. Those instruction are in that manual.

You may be able to reach up and unplug the heater controls with the radio removed. If not, you will have to remove the heater controls. It looks like the 15 pin connector is where you will be testing next, and I put a pinout below (see page 22-21). There may be some numbered spots on the harness without a wire going into it.

On the wire harness with the key in the II position and the blower turned on:
Pin 8 (blu/red wire) should have 12V to ground.
Pin 7 (grn wire) should have continuity to ground.

One the heater control panel (you will have to remove the hvac panel to do this test):
Touching each lead of your meter to pin 7 and pin 8: The meter should read open (no beep) when the switch is off and closed (beep) when the switch is turned on.

01 02 03XXXXXXXXX04 05 06
07 08 09 10 11 X 12 13 14 15

Hope this makes sense.
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 08:42 PM
  #37  
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tried the blu/red again still nothing.

did the hvac panel #7,8 no beep switch off, beep with switch on
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:03 PM
  #38  
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How about this test on the harness?


On the wire harness with the key in the II position and the blower turned on:
Pin 8 (blu/red wire) should have 12V to ground.
Pin 7 (grn wire) should have continuity to ground.
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:06 PM
  #39  
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On my way to work have to try tomorrow
 
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #40  
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The site was down all day, so I will give you some instructions in case the site messes up.

Does the blower inside of the car blow air through the vents at all 4 speeds?

If the #7 pin is not grounded at the a/c switch, then you will move to the blower speed switch. It is on page 21-28 of that 94 shop manual. The green wire should be going to one of the pins on the fan speed motor (Pin A or Pin B) in the diagram. The other wire will be black. Check that the black wire has continuity to ground. Check that the green wire has 12V to ground. You will want to do the continuity tests shown for each switch position.

If pin #8 has no voltage, then check to see if there is continuity between pin #8 for the a/c switch and the blu/red wire for the a/c thermostat.
 



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