1997 accord overheating
#1
1997 accord overheating
I have a 1997 honda accord....I've replaced thermostat and cans also bypassed heater core to see if it was blocked...oil isn't mixing and after it over heats I let it cool and only have to add maybe cup of coolant...it doesn't over heat immediately it's after driving maybe 45 mins any suggestions
#2
When the car warms up and after the lower radiator hose gets hot the fans should turn on.
Idle the car and see if the fans BOTH come on before the car starts to overheat. If you don't have AC then you only have one fan. If the fans don't come on then turn the car off and turn the ignition back to on and without starting the car unplug the fan switch connector that is located at the thermostat housing and use a paperclip to jumper the connector. If the fans turn on then you need a new Honda thermoswitch A. Get it from Honda.
Idle the car and see if the fans BOTH come on before the car starts to overheat. If you don't have AC then you only have one fan. If the fans don't come on then turn the car off and turn the ignition back to on and without starting the car unplug the fan switch connector that is located at the thermostat housing and use a paperclip to jumper the connector. If the fans turn on then you need a new Honda thermoswitch A. Get it from Honda.
#3
Hey thanks for your responce I checked the fans and they seem to be working perfect....I asked a guy that's a experienced mechanic and his suggestion was head gasket or cracked head...I am a diesel tech and have worked on several cars just kinda c confused me when it's holding water and fans working and no known blockages in water flow lol...what's your thoughts on head gasket even if water isn't mixing with oil
#4
We need some more information and you have to more diagnostics before assuming this is a blown head gasket.
You would do a block test where you detect exhaust gases in the coolant to verify the headgasket is bad.
Did you use an OEM thermostat or aftermarket?
Are you just adding coolant to the plastic overflow tank? When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap and verify the actual radiator is filled.
Is the overheating happening when driving, or when you are at idle?
I'd get a loaner radiator pressure tester from a parts store and pressure test both the radiator and radiator cap. Both should hold about 16 psi of pressure.
You would do a block test where you detect exhaust gases in the coolant to verify the headgasket is bad.
Did you use an OEM thermostat or aftermarket?
Are you just adding coolant to the plastic overflow tank? When the engine is cold, open the radiator cap and verify the actual radiator is filled.
Is the overheating happening when driving, or when you are at idle?
I'd get a loaner radiator pressure tester from a parts store and pressure test both the radiator and radiator cap. Both should hold about 16 psi of pressure.
#5
I am recycling this thread, same subject, OP never came back.
'97 EX Wagon Auto. 140k miles. Tremendous car.
Driven across town this morning, engine overheated, steam observed at back of engine, passenger side. Allowed to cool, low on coolant, filled with water, driven home. Overheated on the way. Observed some moisture around thermostat housing, hose, switch area. Let it sit again, refilled with 2 quarts water, started it up and it just goes to normal operating temperature and sits there. No leaking observed. Ran the AC for extra stress, fans come on, idle dips a tad (all normal) temperature continues at normal. Upper hose feels just warm, lower feels cool. Half hour after turning it off, both hoses feel warm. No leakage.
My guess, thermostat stuck this morning, open now or the giant cooling system is just keeping it nice at idle.
Earlier, when car was driven, temperature gauge would drop back with engine speed increase.
Please help.
Water Pump replaced maybe 45k miles ago. Upper hose and radiator replaced 6 months ago.
'97 EX Wagon Auto. 140k miles. Tremendous car.
Driven across town this morning, engine overheated, steam observed at back of engine, passenger side. Allowed to cool, low on coolant, filled with water, driven home. Overheated on the way. Observed some moisture around thermostat housing, hose, switch area. Let it sit again, refilled with 2 quarts water, started it up and it just goes to normal operating temperature and sits there. No leaking observed. Ran the AC for extra stress, fans come on, idle dips a tad (all normal) temperature continues at normal. Upper hose feels just warm, lower feels cool. Half hour after turning it off, both hoses feel warm. No leakage.
My guess, thermostat stuck this morning, open now or the giant cooling system is just keeping it nice at idle.
Earlier, when car was driven, temperature gauge would drop back with engine speed increase.
Please help.
Water Pump replaced maybe 45k miles ago. Upper hose and radiator replaced 6 months ago.
Last edited by brayner; 07-01-2016 at 11:23 AM.
#6
Not sure about 97 (I have a 1998), but check the heater hoses. The ones on 1998 are on the back of the passenger side. My daughter's car was overheating and had a little bit of steam at the back of the engine. That might explain some coolant loss. She had a small leak ....replaced all heater hoses, problem went away
#7
That could be it, there was moisture in that area when the car first came to me.
I ran it again a little bit ago for 15 minutes, up to normal temp, 15 more with AC running, it just stayed normal temperature and didn't leak. Both hoses hot. I've never had that block plug out to flush it. Maybe it's got nasty in there. Or maybe the hose is just leaking under road condition. Supposed to leave on vacation tomorrow.......
I ran it again a little bit ago for 15 minutes, up to normal temp, 15 more with AC running, it just stayed normal temperature and didn't leak. Both hoses hot. I've never had that block plug out to flush it. Maybe it's got nasty in there. Or maybe the hose is just leaking under road condition. Supposed to leave on vacation tomorrow.......
#9
Get a new dist o-ring and just pull the dist.....makes that hose a simple thing to get to once that is out of the way.
Before you pull it, remove the cap and notice/mark where the dist rotor is pointing. Then remove it and change the hose. Remove the old dist o-ring, put a little engine oil on the new one and install. Then put the dist back on.....since you have a 97, the dist is non-adjustable so no need to worry about adjusting the timing.
Please be sure to bleed the cooling system once everything is back together.....Honda's don't take to air in the cooling system very well .....all kinds of strange things can happen.
Me, if you are at all worried, pick up a new t-stat from the dealer and replace it while doing the other stuff.
Good luck.....
Before you pull it, remove the cap and notice/mark where the dist rotor is pointing. Then remove it and change the hose. Remove the old dist o-ring, put a little engine oil on the new one and install. Then put the dist back on.....since you have a 97, the dist is non-adjustable so no need to worry about adjusting the timing.
Please be sure to bleed the cooling system once everything is back together.....Honda's don't take to air in the cooling system very well .....all kinds of strange things can happen.
Me, if you are at all worried, pick up a new t-stat from the dealer and replace it while doing the other stuff.
Good luck.....