I have a 1997 Honda Accord with a 4 cylinder. The other night coming home the engine started surging, then it died on me. I was able to restart it and get it back home. Over the past couple of months. The dash gauges have had a loss of power. Then the vehicle would shut off and the dash gauges would shut off while I was driving it. I could restart it. When I checked my vehicle. I had a bad Alternator which caused the battery to die. I have sense then replaced the Alternator. I also had a Check Engine light which I know I had an issue with the MAP sensor.

After doing some research on the forums and internet. I thought my issue could of been with either the MAP sensor or the ECU. I was able to get another ECU to test out the ECU. The dealership told me that my car should have a 37820-P0J-L61 ECU. When I checked what was in my Car I had a 37820-P0J-L63. The dealership told me my ECU was an updated ECU version.

When I put the L61 ECU into my car it would turn over but it would not stay running. I had to hold the key and let it try to start. It sounded like it was not getting enough fuel. I disconnected the fuel line from the engine and fuel was flowing when I turned on the ignition.

I checked my MAP sensor and I was getting the 5 volts to my ECU. So I put my old ECU back in the car. I checked my distributor cap and noticed It had some corrosion on the contact points. I cleaned them off with a wire brush. I am still getting the same problem of the car wanting to start, I can hear the engine firing. But it will not stay running. I am at a loss of where to look next?

 

Dont assume you have a sensor problem until you do some diagnostics.

Check for engine codes. If you don't have a scanner, you can check for codes by shorting a 2-pin connector under the glove box. See the common diy thread about how to check for codes.

You still haven't determined if the car is not starting due to lack of spark, lack of fuel, or possibly timing. Checking for spark is the quickest. Unplug a spark plug wire from the spark plug. You can use a spark tester, an old spark plug, a screwdriver, or a timing light to test for spark. Let us know what you have available, and we can give you detailed directions.

 

I see no flashing codes on the Dash, when I preform the 2-pin connector test. It may have been reset when I disconnected the battery to replace the alternator. I do see a maintenance light lit on the dash. I checked my spark with a timing light. I am getting a light when that wire received a fire to the spark plug.

 

My 1998 Coupe V6 did the same thing it turned out to be the ignition switch bought from KeenanHonda off ebay and it easy an easy install. Your just replacing the the back side of the switch (electronics) not the tumbler. videos on youtube. Goodluck

 

Please don't just replace the ignition switch because of this last post. Diagnose first.

Sounds like you are getting at least some spark to the plugs. I'm not sure if a weak spark is ruled out by the timing light.

The next thing I would do is to try some starting fluid. Try spraying through the brake booster hose (or port) of the intake. Then have an assistant try to start the car.

 

I took another avenue, I got a can of spray starter fluid and sprayed into the air intake. The car fired right up, it ran for about 5 seconds then cut off. I have fuel going to the fuel injectors. Weather the problem is in the fuel ejectors or the fuel pressure regulator. What would be a simple way to check?

 

You definitely have a fuel problem. Now you need to figure out if the problem is low fuel pressure or the injectors not firing.

There are two ways to go with this. You need to measure the fuel pressure at the rail. The test you did where you disconnected the fuel line doesn't rule out fuel pressure. You might want to call your local parts store to see if they have a fuel pressure testing kit as a loaner tool. Hopefully there is an adapter in there that will work for a Honda. I have a post about making and adapter that can work, but it doesn't seal perfectly.

For the injectors, unplug the injector electrical connector and see if you have 12V to body ground (I use a valve cover bolt as my ground) on the red/blk wire going to each injector.

 

I already took the injectors out and examined them. As I suspected. They were dirty. I cleaned them with injector cleaner and reinstalled them. Tomorrow, I will check to see if the injectors are firing properly. I have a feeling one or more of them may be fowled and/or bad. I might have to pull off the Injector fuel rail and clean it before I reinstall injectors. I believe this is what has been causing one of my problems. As soon as I can get it running. I can stop by either Pep Boys or Napa and see if they can let me use their fuel pressure testing kit. Then I can look to find out why my gauges shut off before the vehicle dies.

As the old story goes "When you buy used cars you inherit other peoples problems."