1997 LX Driver Door Jamb Wiring
#1
1997 LX Driver Door Jamb Wiring
The power windows, mirrors, and locks all went out at once. I traced the problem to the door jamb wiring. When I opened it up, the one black wire shown had come out of one of the pins. Problem is, I can't find a pinout diagram for these connectors. Can someone help?
Thanks...
Thanks...
#3
Still Need Connection Diagram
I have the (almost) 1400 page manual, if that's what you are referring to.
( did you mean a different one?) That's what helped me diagnose and find the loose wire.
But I can't find the door to main wiring harness color coded pin connections in there.
Can anyone provide a specific image of that - or a specific page ?
Thank you.
...Mike
( did you mean a different one?) That's what helped me diagnose and find the loose wire.
But I can't find the door to main wiring harness color coded pin connections in there.
Can anyone provide a specific image of that - or a specific page ?
Thank you.
...Mike
#4
The pin-out is not part of the free on-line service manual.
The info. is part of Honda's Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM), which is not part of the free downloadable links.
Since the power windows, mirrors, and locks doesn't work, and there is loose black wire, that probably is the black ground wire coming from Ground G401 to terminal no. 17 of Connector C417 (the 17 cavity gray connector).
The black wire should probably connect to the wire side of terminal no. 17, which I circled in red.
The info. is part of Honda's Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM), which is not part of the free downloadable links.
Since the power windows, mirrors, and locks doesn't work, and there is loose black wire, that probably is the black ground wire coming from Ground G401 to terminal no. 17 of Connector C417 (the 17 cavity gray connector).
The black wire should probably connect to the wire side of terminal no. 17, which I circled in red.
#5
Thanks - that was it, but....
So, I picked up a Lisle tool to pull the terminal connector out of the socket and resolder, but could not get it to work, so I got creative.
I took a good quality spade lug connector and cut off one side of the spade. I crimped that on, and wedged it into the back of the connector. It fit pretty well, I established my ground, and the windows, locks, and mirrors work now.
Except... I may have to do it again - those wires are brittle, and I think I heard one crack, and I'm not sure which one, but I have no drivers side door only window control. I'll be reading wiring diagrams again this weekend and hope I'll be able to use the same technique.
But its a good 20 year old car
...Mike
I took a good quality spade lug connector and cut off one side of the spade. I crimped that on, and wedged it into the back of the connector. It fit pretty well, I established my ground, and the windows, locks, and mirrors work now.
Except... I may have to do it again - those wires are brittle, and I think I heard one crack, and I'm not sure which one, but I have no drivers side door only window control. I'll be reading wiring diagrams again this weekend and hope I'll be able to use the same technique.
But its a good 20 year old car
...Mike
#6
Check the continuity for the drivers window switch. It is not uncommon for them to fail since they are prone to water damage if someone drives with the window slightly down on wet roads or during rain. If it is the switch console send me a private message as I have a good one out of a tan interior car.
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