1998 4-cylinder Accord engine light stays on
#11
RE: 1998 4-cylinder Accord engine light stays on
ORIGINAL: ruben7566
Can't you damage something if you jump pins 8 and pins 13 of the DLC 16 pin connector without using the Scan tool?
thanks
Ruben
Can't you damage something if you jump pins 8 and pins 13 of the DLC 16 pin connector without using the Scan tool?
thanks
Ruben
It's easier to go to AutoZone, but make sure you get the actual code number & tell us. Sometimes their explanations are pretty creative.
#12
Unregistered
Posts: n/a
RE: 1998 4-cylinder Accord engine light stays on
Hi the Scanner came up with code is P1456 something with the fuel.
Any ideas specifically what the problem is?
They tightened the gas cap and reset the light they said to drive it and bring it back in if the light comes back on.
thanks
Ruben
Any ideas specifically what the problem is?
They tightened the gas cap and reset the light they said to drive it and bring it back in if the light comes back on.
thanks
Ruben
#13
RE: 1998 4-cylinder Accord engine light stays on
when you put your gas cap back on you have to make it tighter than tight. it has to click like 3 times. just give it another half turn full of clicks everytime you put your cap back on you wont hurt it thats how it was designed to work
#14
RE: 1998 4-cylinder Accord engine light stays on
P1456 means your gas tank isn't airtight like it should be. The most common reason is forgetting to tighten the gas cap. But if you're careful with the cap, & the same code comes back, there's a few other things to check out...
Listed in order of my own wild guesses about likelyhood & ease of checking:
- Leaky gasket on the gas cap, or the cap itself is cracked or something. It's supposed to be airtight.
- Damaged filler pipe end, so it doesn't seal against the cap's gasket.
- Cracked fuel filler pipe or connection with the tank.
- Loose hose - there's a couple more hoses alongside the fill pipe inside the fender.
- The gas tank itself is cracked. You would probably smell gasoline.
- The fuel pump is bolted into the tank with a flange & gasket. Check for leaks, but you'd smell gas if you filled it full.
- The fuel gauge sender is bolted into the tank with it's own gasket, or some model/years it's together with the pump...
- A couple of solenoid valves associated with the EVAP canister can stick open, then it leaks thru the canister & you don't smell it.
- The ECU uses a fuel tank pressure sensor to detect this leak. Maybe the sensor's bad.
The HELM repair book has a really good section on troubleshooting this. You'll want a MityVac & a few hoses & jumper wires & a multi-meter.
edit...
It doesn't check for tank being airtight all the time, every time. You might have to drive around for a week or more before the code comes back.
Listed in order of my own wild guesses about likelyhood & ease of checking:
- Leaky gasket on the gas cap, or the cap itself is cracked or something. It's supposed to be airtight.
- Damaged filler pipe end, so it doesn't seal against the cap's gasket.
- Cracked fuel filler pipe or connection with the tank.
- Loose hose - there's a couple more hoses alongside the fill pipe inside the fender.
- The gas tank itself is cracked. You would probably smell gasoline.
- The fuel pump is bolted into the tank with a flange & gasket. Check for leaks, but you'd smell gas if you filled it full.
- The fuel gauge sender is bolted into the tank with it's own gasket, or some model/years it's together with the pump...
- A couple of solenoid valves associated with the EVAP canister can stick open, then it leaks thru the canister & you don't smell it.
- The ECU uses a fuel tank pressure sensor to detect this leak. Maybe the sensor's bad.
The HELM repair book has a really good section on troubleshooting this. You'll want a MityVac & a few hoses & jumper wires & a multi-meter.
edit...
It doesn't check for tank being airtight all the time, every time. You might have to drive around for a week or more before the code comes back.
#16
Autozone will check the code and give you a list of potential issues. They may not be correct. If you buy the O2 Sensor, they will not Reset the code (which is necessary) without charging you or getting you to buy a code reader/resetter. It's a game they play. Most of the time it is just gasoline. Add some Sea Foam additive and see what happens.
#17
Please check your information. This 6-year-old thread isn't about the O2 sensor, and the need for resetting the ECU varies from year to year. This guy can reset his by himself. And in some parts of the country AZ will reset it.
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