1998 honda accord f23a1 engine noise at low rpm
#1
1998 honda accord f23a1 engine noise at low rpm
hi my name is Michael and Ive been having an issue with my car were at very low rpm and or idle i for a very fast ticking sound and when i say low idle its between 750 - 1250 rpm and if I'm in drive 4 and go very light on the gas to 1000 rpm you can hear it as well as when I'm in park.
now i have had an oil change recently as well as my injectors cleaned with sea foam at least 5k miles ago. Ive had a valve adjustment 8k miles ago and are right. and my timing belt and water pump 20k miles ago. Ive taken it in to a few shops and I'm not sure what the sound is coming from when i go to listen for it it sounds top end-ish but i cant tell where. the car runs fine but I'm sure that sound is creating a lot of extra wear. the best i can describe the sound is like a diesel engine but a much higher pitched sound it almost sounds like valve tap but ive checked and they are set right and i checked them when it was cold
i have 118500 miles on the odometer
if you can give some input on what might be wrong please feel free to comment
thanks!
now i have had an oil change recently as well as my injectors cleaned with sea foam at least 5k miles ago. Ive had a valve adjustment 8k miles ago and are right. and my timing belt and water pump 20k miles ago. Ive taken it in to a few shops and I'm not sure what the sound is coming from when i go to listen for it it sounds top end-ish but i cant tell where. the car runs fine but I'm sure that sound is creating a lot of extra wear. the best i can describe the sound is like a diesel engine but a much higher pitched sound it almost sounds like valve tap but ive checked and they are set right and i checked them when it was cold
i have 118500 miles on the odometer
if you can give some input on what might be wrong please feel free to comment
thanks!
#2
If sound is fast at idle, then it's likely something on the accessory drive; alt, PS, AC. A single valve lash issue would be slower (once every two rpms).
A quick way to confirm accessory issue is to remove accessory belt and restart engine. If noise stops, you have confirmation and can inspect each component for looseness/wear/damage.
good luck
A quick way to confirm accessory issue is to remove accessory belt and restart engine. If noise stops, you have confirmation and can inspect each component for looseness/wear/damage.
good luck
#3
If sound is fast at idle, then it's likely something on the accessory drive; alt, PS, AC. A single valve lash issue would be slower (once every two rpms).
A quick way to confirm accessory issue is to remove accessory belt and restart engine. If noise stops, you have confirmation and can inspect each component for looseness/wear/damage.
good luck
A quick way to confirm accessory issue is to remove accessory belt and restart engine. If noise stops, you have confirmation and can inspect each component for looseness/wear/damage.
good luck
well i would like to say im not 100% on doing repairs and tests its my daily driver but if you would like i can post a video of it if you can tell me how to do it
#5
ok the accessories belt is the one attached to the ps pump alternator and ac compressor correct? and if so taking this off do i keep the battery plugged in and start the car normally? if you can give me a detailed list of the procedure i can do it pictures would be helpful
#6
Your Accord does not have a serpentine belt but rather has two individual accessory belts. See following video.
Once the belts are completely removed, you can start engine briefly and see if sound is eliminated or not. Rotate each of the pulleys by hand to look for a damaged bearing if the sound is missing, and search for source of noise.
You will need a good set of sockets, ratchets, and extensions to accomplish this work. Power tools are not necessary or preferred.
good luck
Once the belts are completely removed, you can start engine briefly and see if sound is eliminated or not. Rotate each of the pulleys by hand to look for a damaged bearing if the sound is missing, and search for source of noise.
You will need a good set of sockets, ratchets, and extensions to accomplish this work. Power tools are not necessary or preferred.
good luck
#7
ok now is there a set belt deflection for those belts or is it just to get them tight? also to get the noise i have to give it a little tug on the throttle to get 1000 rpm is this ok to do with the belt off?
Last edited by bojaglez; 04-23-2015 at 11:44 AM.
#9
ive had an exhaust leak for a while now and i noticed befor i started to take the belts off when running the car to get lunch that the puttering was different. before you would hear a constant puttering putt putt putt putt putt.
but now i hear a break in the putters every 3 -5 putters there is a pause not sure why? im thinking it may have something to do with either fuel or spark because ive noticed more vibration while in park as well any thoughts? also when i did my last tune up they used ngk r which im assuming are the iridium ones before i always ran ngk platinum plugs is there a gap difference between the 2? or do they run differently? or is it just a longevity thing?
now this is alot to ask and im not sure how much knowledge you have but any help you give is appreciated
#10
You now know the noise is not an accessory, so some progress. To make further progress on noise, you need to listen w/ a tube or screwdriver to the engine to try and pinpoint the noise source. Some possibilities are timing belt tensioner bearing, crankshaft pulley wobbling and hitting timing belt cover (llook for wobble), exhaust shield rattling, exhaust leak can sound like a mechanical noise in some cases.
Regarding engine performance, do you have a Check Engine Light? If yes, get the codes read at Autozone, etc.
good luck
Regarding engine performance, do you have a Check Engine Light? If yes, get the codes read at Autozone, etc.
good luck