1998 honda accord f23a1 engine noise at low rpm
You now know the noise is not an accessory, so some progress. To make further progress on noise, you need to listen w/ a tube or screwdriver to the engine to try and pinpoint the noise source. Some possibilities are timing belt tensioner bearing, crankshaft pulley wobbling and hitting timing belt cover (llook for wobble), exhaust shield rattling, exhaust leak can sound like a mechanical noise in some cases.
Regarding engine performance, do you have a Check Engine Light? If yes, get the codes read at Autozone, etc.
good luck
Regarding engine performance, do you have a Check Engine Light? If yes, get the codes read at Autozone, etc.
good luck
ok well exhaust wise the only sound i have is a putter from past the cat everything else is new from manifold to the cat when my cat went out.
as for codes none that ive seen and it is not throwing a CEL im at 118000 miles atm and i got my timing belt and water pump done at 96000 but it is possible they didnt change the tensioner pulley due to when servicing it didnt bind and moved freely but i have 1 question on my engine the f23a1 i need to remove the valve cover to get the timing cover off can i reuse the valve cover gasket thats on it or do i need a new one? ive heard you need to get a new one i mean the valve cover gasket is very new not even 10000 miles with it on
i will check for were the sound is coming from tomorrow and go from there dont want to tear anything apart till i know where its at and wont tear the engine apart if it sounds like its coming from there
Last edited by bojaglez; Apr 23, 2015 at 09:02 PM.
Possibility of timing belt tensioner/idler as source of noise should be pursued. Loss of timing belt usually leads to valve damage in the head at least, and potentially much worse.
Yes, valve cover gasket can be reused when accessing the upper timing belt cover. Removing upper timiing cover and running engine (return valve cover temporarily) may allow tracing of noise to timing belt or excluding that source. Don't overtighten valve cover nuts. They only require about 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs).
good luck
Yes, valve cover gasket can be reused when accessing the upper timing belt cover. Removing upper timiing cover and running engine (return valve cover temporarily) may allow tracing of noise to timing belt or excluding that source. Don't overtighten valve cover nuts. They only require about 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs).
good luck
Possibility of timing belt tensioner/idler as source of noise should be pursued. Loss of timing belt usually leads to valve damage in the head at least, and potentially much worse.
Yes, valve cover gasket can be reused when accessing the upper timing belt cover. Removing upper timiing cover and running engine (return valve cover temporarily) may allow tracing of noise to timing belt or excluding that source. Don't overtighten valve cover nuts. They only require about 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs).
good luck
Yes, valve cover gasket can be reused when accessing the upper timing belt cover. Removing upper timiing cover and running engine (return valve cover temporarily) may allow tracing of noise to timing belt or excluding that source. Don't overtighten valve cover nuts. They only require about 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs).
good luck
well the f23a1 is a non interference engine so unless i slip 4 teeth on the camshaft its no likely im going to bend a valve but there is still the possibility dont have time to check today but i will do the screw driver test to see where its coming from and go from there
Run the car with the belts off. If there is any noise being produced from the drive belts that noise will now be removed and you may better be able to pin point the source. Don't worry about dash lights on while doing this and remember you should be prepared to run the car as little as possible as the battery will not be charging, otherwise if you have a battery charger you can just run it and recharge it when you are done.
ok for those who are new coming into this thread here's an update
f23a1 engine noise on a 1998 honda accord lx 2.3l with 118000 miles on it.
i started to hear this noise about a month ago here's a video of the noise
now this noise only happens around 1000 rpm or at idle and my idle speed is around 750 so we'll will say between 750-1250 rpm the sound is present.
things ive had worked on
timeing belt/water pump and tune up at 96000 miles
power steering pump 100000 miles
ac compressor at 114000 miles
tune up and valve adjustment at 118000 miles
very shortly after a new exhaust from manifold to cat and new alternator
and i have changed my oil every 3000 miles since i got it
i have determined that the sound is not from the accessories belt so its not the ps pump ac compressor or the alternator i am going to listen this weekend for the sound using a screw driver to determine whether its coming from the timing cover or the block and will keep you posted
f23a1 engine noise on a 1998 honda accord lx 2.3l with 118000 miles on it.
i started to hear this noise about a month ago here's a video of the noise
now this noise only happens around 1000 rpm or at idle and my idle speed is around 750 so we'll will say between 750-1250 rpm the sound is present.
things ive had worked on
timeing belt/water pump and tune up at 96000 miles
power steering pump 100000 miles
ac compressor at 114000 miles
tune up and valve adjustment at 118000 miles
very shortly after a new exhaust from manifold to cat and new alternator
and i have changed my oil every 3000 miles since i got it
i have determined that the sound is not from the accessories belt so its not the ps pump ac compressor or the alternator i am going to listen this weekend for the sound using a screw driver to determine whether its coming from the timing cover or the block and will keep you posted
ok so i gave it a listen with a stethoscope and i don't hear anything on in the front of the engine (AKA) where the timing belt is at.
i started to hear it when i put the stethoscope on the exhaust manifold but it wasn't loud i went lower to the pipe and didn't hear it at all so i went back up to the valve cover and went over each cylinder bank and hardly heard it so i went to where the valve cover and manifold meet and it got louder.
after this i decided to check the right side of the engine and checked the fuel injectors they sounded fine but i heard the sound a little when i revved it up to 1k rpm now it was louder than the manifold. so i got curious as to whether it was at the back of the engine where the distributor is so i gave it a listen and it was the loudest around the distributor.
now my question is the distributor able to make the sound from the video i posted or is it more likely the valves on bank 1 cylinder are out of spec? also isnt the starter back in that area im not sure if the starter fires only when starting or if it also fires while driving so if someone could tell me what the starter does while the cars on that would be helpful.
so as of now i assume the timing belt is fine with all its tensioners since i did not hear the sound anywhere on the front of the engine i wont rule them out but for now my focus is towards the back near the distributor
any advice is appreciated and for those who have commented all help goes towards helping me and anyone else with this problem and on their behalf i thank you
i started to hear it when i put the stethoscope on the exhaust manifold but it wasn't loud i went lower to the pipe and didn't hear it at all so i went back up to the valve cover and went over each cylinder bank and hardly heard it so i went to where the valve cover and manifold meet and it got louder.
after this i decided to check the right side of the engine and checked the fuel injectors they sounded fine but i heard the sound a little when i revved it up to 1k rpm now it was louder than the manifold. so i got curious as to whether it was at the back of the engine where the distributor is so i gave it a listen and it was the loudest around the distributor.
now my question is the distributor able to make the sound from the video i posted or is it more likely the valves on bank 1 cylinder are out of spec? also isnt the starter back in that area im not sure if the starter fires only when starting or if it also fires while driving so if someone could tell me what the starter does while the cars on that would be helpful.
so as of now i assume the timing belt is fine with all its tensioners since i did not hear the sound anywhere on the front of the engine i wont rule them out but for now my focus is towards the back near the distributor
any advice is appreciated and for those who have commented all help goes towards helping me and anyone else with this problem and on their behalf i thank you
I have heard of the bearing in the distributor rusting/siezing causing noise and usually rust under the distributor cap. I think this was earlier models, but your distributor should have a internal ball bearing.
good luck
good luck
ok so this is my distributor blown up with part numbers what in here could make that sound? when i got my tune up i did cap rotor and new plugs and wires
ok so ive been to a few forums and asked around and what ive been reading there is a possibility or a lifter being bad but can it only make a sound at a certain rpm or would it always be making the sound?
I've never heard of a broken lifter. What part breaks valve, rocker arm? You should be able to confirm integrity w/ a simple inspection and gap assessment.
A broken valve stem would result in valve dropping and hitting the piston. You would have bigger problems than a noise at 1000 rpm. Broken rocker arm would likely make noise all the time.
Distributor sounds more likely to me.
good luck
A broken valve stem would result in valve dropping and hitting the piston. You would have bigger problems than a noise at 1000 rpm. Broken rocker arm would likely make noise all the time.
Distributor sounds more likely to me.
good luck


