Its not the bulbs, there's no power in the sockets of the RH brake light or the center brake light. I wouldn't think these are fused independently.

It's on a 93 accord.

 

The problem is usually due to a faulty brake light failure sensor.

There are two light failure sensors in the trunk area; the left sensor (usually brown) is for the left outer and inner brake lights, while the right sensor (usually black) is for the right outer and inner brake lights, and high mount brake light.

The brake light failure sensors are use to help indicate if a bulb burnt out, and power has to go through it to the brake light bulbs. The sensor components may go bad or solder joints crack with age/use; where power no longer goes through relay coils inside the sensor to the brake light bulb.

The right failure sensor on your car is probably the culprit.

 

Thanks for the great response and pictures. I saw those connectors but had no idea what they were for or why they were there. I will take a look at it tomorrow.

 

Well I can't seem to find any of these on ebay. I was hoping for even maybe some sort of bypass harness too but nothing. Am I stuck going to the dealer and opening my wallet for what I am assuming is going to be a hefty price tag?

 

Last month, there were two ebay listings with new parts at discounted prices from non-dealers. - I helped someone else fixed the same issue.

Currently, ebay does have them; but, from dealers at mark-up even over retail.

Local dealership may be your best bet at the moment, since you won't incur shipping charges and there is no sales tax in Oregon.

If you want to try bypassing the unit, I posted a test in this other thread (post #13). But, with re-routing wiring permanently, do at your own risk. I was just posting a temporary test.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...z-61237/page2/

 

It appears in my situation the problem was actually the connector not the module itself. I need to replace the little harness with the two bulb sockets. The connector is just corroded and not making good connection.

 

You can clean the connectors. On the harness side look in the connector and you will see a little plastic tab that if you gently pry on you can release the wire by pry on the tab and pulling the wire you of the connector. You can then clean the contact on the wire end or get a new terminal and cut and replace it. Then plug it back into the connector and remove the next wire. I recommend doing only one wire at a time so you don't mess up the configuration. You can also lightly crimp the femal side of the terminal so it make tighter contact when it is pushed onto the male side. I have even gone as far as using a copper contact spray on the terminals after cleaning and before reinstalling in the connector in order to make even better contact. If you go that route, with the wire removed and cleaned as best you can, crimped as needed, take a piece of paper and insert then end of the wire through it and then spray. This just keeps the work area clean and keep the spray for going where it does not need to be.

 

Well, I tried this with mixed success. I got two tabs undone that should have released pins. Pins wouldn't release for the life of me. I inserted a tiny screw driver everywhere I could and no release. After what seemed like way to long working on a $30 part I got frustrated and just pulled each wire with all my strength and yanked the stinking things out. Cleaned, squeezed slightly with pliers, and reinserted. They would no longer stay with the release tabs out but stayed when the tabs were re-clipped. Pretty sure that I had just destroyed the stinking thing I plugged it in and walla it works. Not pretty but hey I saved $30!!!

I have brake lights again and no burned out light indicator!!