2000 2.3 Accord Spark + Fuel - Turns Over - No Start
#1
12-09-2012, 05:22 PM
2000 2.3 Accord Spark + Fuel - Turns Over - No Start
2000 Honda Accord EX 2.3 217k miles
Drove it down my hill a few days ago for brunch. Drove it back up no problem. Two days later went to get in for a run and knew I was in a spot when it didn't start immediately.
Gas in the tank and the car has been regularly serviced in a shop since new. (I am second owner, sister is first all reciept in a pile at my feet)
So far....
- I have a MFR click suggesting it works
- All stuff out of trunk and the access plate off so I can hear the fuel pump
- did oakie fuel pressure check since I can't seem to find a fitting to put by fuel pressure testing on. I loosened what appears to be a regulator(?)with white plastic cap and plenty of gas made it onto my intake.
- after airing out garage and pushing it into driveway, I checked for spark which I have on all four.
After laying off starting attempts, ther seems to try weakly to start every now and then.
Gas is getting to the location indicated in image in plenty of volume. I presume nothing since it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the injectors.
Timing belt replaced by shop 40,000k miles ago.
At this point I need a few suggestions AND which is the better aftermarket tech manual, (Haynes Versus Chilton?) For the Honda. If there is a resource short of "AllParts" for civilians, i.e. CD factory manual for troubleshooting that would work.
This is basically a one owner car, previously owned by my little sister, always serviced by shop.
Drove it down my hill a few days ago for brunch. Drove it back up no problem. Two days later went to get in for a run and knew I was in a spot when it didn't start immediately.
Gas in the tank and the car has been regularly serviced in a shop since new. (I am second owner, sister is first all reciept in a pile at my feet)
So far....
- I have a MFR click suggesting it works
- All stuff out of trunk and the access plate off so I can hear the fuel pump
- did oakie fuel pressure check since I can't seem to find a fitting to put by fuel pressure testing on. I loosened what appears to be a regulator(?)with white plastic cap and plenty of gas made it onto my intake.
- after airing out garage and pushing it into driveway, I checked for spark which I have on all four.
After laying off starting attempts, ther seems to try weakly to start every now and then.
Gas is getting to the location indicated in image in plenty of volume. I presume nothing since it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the injectors.
Timing belt replaced by shop 40,000k miles ago.
At this point I need a few suggestions AND which is the better aftermarket tech manual, (Haynes Versus Chilton?) For the Honda. If there is a resource short of "AllParts" for civilians, i.e. CD factory manual for troubleshooting that would work.
This is basically a one owner car, previously owned by my little sister, always serviced by shop.
#2
12-09-2012, 07:01 PM
That thing is a pulse-dampener; it reduces the pulsing pressure caused by injectors opening & closing.
If you got gasoline there, under pressure, that means your fuel pump is working. But it doesn't prove your injectors are actually firing.
Just to the right in your photo is a round thing with a vacuum hose. That's the fuel-pressure regulator. Pull off the rubber vacuum hose (visible in the photo). There should NOT be any fuel in there. If there is, you need a new regulator.
You said you checked for spark? Was it strong (blue)? A weak yellow spark might not be enough.
Unplug the wires from each fuel injector. One wire on each will have the same color wire. That one is supposed to have battery voltage at all times when the key is turned to the "ON" position. Check that with a multi-meter.
You might want to get a "noid-light" to check the injectors firing. It's a little thing you plug between the injector & wire. When cranking the starter its supposed to flash.
If you got gasoline there, under pressure, that means your fuel pump is working. But it doesn't prove your injectors are actually firing.
Just to the right in your photo is a round thing with a vacuum hose. That's the fuel-pressure regulator. Pull off the rubber vacuum hose (visible in the photo). There should NOT be any fuel in there. If there is, you need a new regulator.
You said you checked for spark? Was it strong (blue)? A weak yellow spark might not be enough.
Unplug the wires from each fuel injector. One wire on each will have the same color wire. That one is supposed to have battery voltage at all times when the key is turned to the "ON" position. Check that with a multi-meter.
You might want to get a "noid-light" to check the injectors firing. It's a little thing you plug between the injector & wire. When cranking the starter its supposed to flash.
#3
12-10-2012, 02:39 PM
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the reply. No fuel in the pressure regulator. I did note what I thought was a spark leaning a bit on the yellow side and will re-test with a fresh sparkplug. I passed the yellowish-blue spark off on an older plug, but I did have the plug securely grounded. The plug wasn't that old or corroded.
Thanks for the reply. No fuel in the pressure regulator. I did note what I thought was a spark leaning a bit on the yellow side and will re-test with a fresh sparkplug. I passed the yellowish-blue spark off on an older plug, but I did have the plug securely grounded. The plug wasn't that old or corroded.
#6
12-17-2012, 02:38 PM
I appear to have fuel pressure, spark (timing light verified) and when I sprayed fuel into the throttle body it would not hit any better. Apparently there is enough fuel being pumped in to flood it. Double checked the spark on all four and it seems weak. Would this point to the ICM? Sometimes it weakly acts if it is trying to start, but I mean very weakly.
Thank you.
A silight pull-back. In an on-line diagnosis it suggests that IF I have spark on all four, it isn't the ICM (Ignitor) and I am seeing a mention of an ECM. I have sprayed gas directly into the throttle body with no change in how it tries to start so that suggests spark to weak to kick, but my timing light test says I have good spark. That suggests another ignition fault.(Ignition coil seems to be the culprit..)
Thank you.
A silight pull-back. In an on-line diagnosis it suggests that IF I have spark on all four, it isn't the ICM (Ignitor) and I am seeing a mention of an ECM. I have sprayed gas directly into the throttle body with no change in how it tries to start so that suggests spark to weak to kick, but my timing light test says I have good spark. That suggests another ignition fault.(Ignition coil seems to be the culprit..)
Last edited by Wudman; 12-17-2012 at 03:04 PM. Reason: confusion...
#7
12-17-2012, 06:25 PM
ICM failed the test at AUTOZONE, throwing a fault at the "Threshold". Also put an ohm meter on the coil land the secondary windings pushed a .9 which technically is out of spec. Of course I have the LX which appears to mean more $$$ for the ICM.
