1 - 90 lbs is way too low but I suspect a faulty gauge
2- if #1 is at 0 psi then you need to pull the valve cover asap. If you have a valve stuck open (likely reason why it is at 0 psi) then you have most likely already bent a valve as the pistons will hit the valve if it is stuck open.

This is a very unusual problem to have esp on a car with so few miles.

I would say pulling off the head and having it rebuilt is going to be required.

Pull the valve cover and see what is happening on cyc # 2

I do not thing you should crank the motor anymore at this point.

 

I think a stuck valve will already be bent, so you can do some more tests.

I would redo the compression test. Make sure you have the gas pedal pushed down the whole way. I would pull the fuel pump fuse and unplug the distributor as well. Do a compression test, then add a cap full of oil, then retest. There is a good ericthecarguy video. Just google ericthecarguy compression test.

The next step after the compression test would be to do a leak-down test on cylinder 2, if the compression test shows no compression on cylinder 2.

You can also pull the valve cover and measure clearances to see if the valves on cylinder 2 are way out of spec.

 

Did this car ever sit, parked and not started, for a long time? Zero compression on on cylinder would be caused by a valve not seating as PAHonda said, and there have been several other posts on this forum for the same problem. I wouldn't worry too much about a bent valve unless the timing belt broke in the past and the bent valve(s) was never replaced. Instead, it's likely that the valve is only partially open, not fully seated, so it wouldn't ever hit the piston.

Search the posts for zero compression. As I remember, one poster took the cylinder head off and had the valves cleaned, and the other poster tapped on the valves while spraying WD-40 on the valve stems, which eventually freed-up the valves.

 

It's going to have to sit for at least a week before I can get to it. Just simply too much going on. I'm going to read through the posts again when I have the time to check it out. I'll post what i find.

 

I finally have a free day to take a look at the Honda. I took the valve cover off and nothing seems obviously amiss. With the engine cranking the rockers are all functioning. I don't see what appears like a broken spring or anything. I'll check gaps and see if a valve seems to be partially open and I'll do a compression test with oil.

The car has been used daily for the past three years without trouble. It did sit for several years before that in a tow yard. I bought it in a lien sale from the operator. He said it was driven by the owner's uninsured/unlicensed girlfriend who was involved in a minor accident. It was towed and he couldn't afford the tow and storage fees which of course just kept rolling higher everyday so he walked.

 

I just did another compression test- dry and with a little oil added to the cylinder. This time I used my thread-in tester. Previously I didn't think I could tighten the fitting on the rubber hose well enough down in the spark plug well to get a decent reading so I used the old push in type of tester which of course is a piece of crap.

Here's my new results:

Dry Wet

#1 210 215

#2 100 110

#3 60 65

#4 200 200

Head gasket between 2 and 3?

 

IDK - that just really sucks.

I think if I was in your position I would take off the head, have it redone and re-install.

I feel with my medium knowledge of motors it most likely will not solve your problem.

However it may, and if it doesn't well then you just need to have the short block rebuilt.

It really sucks with that many miles that you have this problem but I do not see any easy repair in your future.

 

If you can borrow a borescope, take a look through the sparkplug hole. With the piston down low, look at the cylinder walls for scoring or just bad looking surface. If that looks OK, then it can be a headgasket like you say. You can also check that out with a leak-down test. If you can convince yourself that the shortblock is OK, then pull the head off.

 

Valves not seating on 2 & 3, my guess. I think it would be losing a lot of coolant if a leaky head gasket was the cause of that much compression loss. Little difference between dry and wet readings indicates compression rings are sealing.

 

I was thinking head gasket blown at the narrows between 2 and 3 cylinders but this afternoon I did a leak-down test. Looks like 2 and 3 are both leaking out the exhaust so yeah I guess leaking valves.

#3 at TDC was creating pretty good air flow out the #1 spark plug well - It looks like #1 exhaust valves are slightly open when #3 is at TDC.

#2 at TDC was also creating air flow out of #4 and when I had my wife hold her hand over the #4 spark plug well, it was quite a draft coming out of the tail pipe.

So I guess it's time to pull the head and see what's going on. Burned valves, carbon build up? It's never had a broken timing belt since I've had it and it only had 70k miles when I bought it. I can't image why it would have bent valves. Can't imagine why they're not sealing at this point either though. Dang!