After a quiet 4 months (that ended with replacing the CAT), my honda is back with its old problem.

I had the SAME exact problem last July - the car starts and runs fine in the morning. In the afternoon or early evening hours, it cranks but won't start. I turn the key to OFF and ON several times and wait for the fuel relay to click ( i hear it faintly) and I start the car, it starts sometimes and it won't. Day before yesterday, the car would start and immediately die. I do smell fuel.

I have replaced distributor, cap, rotor, new NGK spark plugs. Last year, the fuel pump pressures looked just fine. The throttle body was cleaned last Summer. I use only SHELL gasoline.

Yesterday morning, on the way to work, I came down a small hill and did a 90-degree right hand turn and the car literally died. I could make out because the steering locked, lights came on the dashboard and the car coasted to a halt (in the middle of a busy road, talk about my luck!). Is it by design that the auto tranny shifts to neutral when such a thing happens? I moved the shifter to park, turned my hazard lights on, moved key to off and ON and turned the key. car started fine and went to work.

I have also observed that I seem to hit air-pockets (when driving close to 2000-2100 RPMS). I feel a jerk and after a couple of these, the car drives just fine (on the highway, no issues at all)

Is it the main fuel relay? I am tempted to change it and see what happens? Is there a good DIY procedure or link which fellow owners can share?

thank you

 

If car starts every time you hear main fuel relay (MFR) close and Check Engine Light go off, the main fuel relay is likely the fault.

If it sometimes fails to start even if MFR clicks and CEL goes off, the problem may be a sticking fuel pump. I had similar symptoms which I eventually traced to fuel pump sticking. When no-start occurred, fuel pump could be induced to restart w/ repeated on/off/on/off... of the key switch.

There are DIY procedures in DIY forum for MFR replacement and usually can find a video on youtube for car similar to yours.

good luck

 

Hello TexasHonda,

what is a sticking fuel pump and how did you fix it?

1. I had a friend turn the key from position I to position II while I placed my ear to the gas nozzle and heard the fuel pump whizzing.

2. I located the MFR behind the dash and gripped it in my palm and turned the key from position I to Position II. I heard a click first and then a faint click a couple seconds later. Online, I have read about 3 clicks...but, I am hearing only 2.

I have not been able to find any DIY on this website or youtube(there is one for an accord from the 90s).

I can see the MFR but not enough space for my right thumb to pinch the tab on the cable connector. I am not sure how to remove it. Any help is appreciated. - it is unlke any other i have read about and seen so far.

Any help is appreciated

 

A sticking fuel pump will not run when power is supplied (worn brushes is likely problem). Fix is replacement.

To diagnose sticking fuel pump, you must confirm no fuel pump run when power is available. I used a "tell-tale" light rigged from rear fuel pump drive wire to front seat where I could see/confirm if power was available and no pump action. After confirmation, I replaced fuel pump.

Some have had good luck w/ disconnecting the main fuel relay body from the shell (two end retainers that must be deflected to allow body to be removed. It may help to remove under dash knee bolster trim piece.

good luck

 

Hello TexasHonda,
thanks for the reply. I will start with the cheaper alternative first (since the car does start and run in the mornings. It chugs a little after a while but continues to run). However, later afternoon, it simply fails to start.

With my test 1 above, I am somewhat optimistic that fuel pump ma be running fine...

I have located the MFR but I am not able to get to the 10mm like I have seen in the videos online. For one, the ABS connector to the brake pedal is in the middle. I used a screwdriver to remove the Electrical connector out of the way. However, I am stuck in deciding to either remve the 10mm bolt or yank the relay with pcb out of the case? From what I can tell, the picture is close to this, http://www.justanswer.com/honda/6770...es-engine.html. However the relay and the unit that is directly above the relay are connected to a plate that is bolted to the frame. I have not seen any instructions. It is definitely not like described here - Honda Accord Main Relay Location. There is no metal plate like the one shown in the illustration.

any help appreciated.

 

If you can access the 10mm bolt retaining the bracket, that may be easiest, but be sure you can re-install.

good luck

 

Here is a video on the main relay. He shows how to remove just the PCB to make removal easier.

 

Hello TexasHonda and PAHonda,
Thank you for the information. I took the shortcut removal method 1 (Honda Accord Main Relay Location) shown here since I was not sure if I had to remove 1 10mm bolt or 3 and the assembly in my car is unlike the videos I have seen. Prying the relay body without the case was by far the easiest task(took me less than 10seconds)

BUT, I have another problem. I just cannot wedge the electrical connector free from the relay body. I have videos of the relay...can you please suggest a method...I am not trying anything fancy or applying too much pressure. It is so cramped in there and no elbow room...i wonder how people are SO EASILY removing it (it says shortcut method :-))

The first video, I tried to see if I can spot dried out areas of solder, lighting was bad (phone in 1 hand and led light in other)

The second video actually show the connector and main fuel relay body(that is the one to watch). Any help appreciated

 

The release tab is the open strip on the side where part of the connector protrudes through the relay. You may have to stab a small screwdriver blade down alongside the relay and pry the relay shell out to release the connector.

good luck

 

Thank you thank you thank you :-),

For such a small trivial job, this is a pyrrhic victory for me. hallelujah!

I am probably the world's biggest noob that had a problem with unplugging the connector. After reading your post, I went back to this link, <<Honda Accord Main Relay Location>> and used the screwdriver to pry it open.

I feel like a total dork now. A picture of the MFR is attached. I will resolder all the points first, see how the leads are sticking out all over the place.