2001 Cluth not disengaging properly
Hey,
So my clutch doesn't fully disengage anymore. At a complete stop I can't put it in gear anymore unless I pump the clutch a couple of times and then out of the blue it lets me put it in gear.
-And when im in gear coming to a stop, with the clutch as far down as it can go, the clutch remains engaged.
-I tried adjusting the little lever in the driver's footwell but the **** that attaches to the pedal is extended as far as It can go.
-Fluid level is good and the master was replaced last year.
-I was thinking of trying to bleed the master ?
any help is appreciated !
So my clutch doesn't fully disengage anymore. At a complete stop I can't put it in gear anymore unless I pump the clutch a couple of times and then out of the blue it lets me put it in gear.
-And when im in gear coming to a stop, with the clutch as far down as it can go, the clutch remains engaged.
-I tried adjusting the little lever in the driver's footwell but the **** that attaches to the pedal is extended as far as It can go.
-Fluid level is good and the master was replaced last year.
-I was thinking of trying to bleed the master ?
any help is appreciated !
Bleed the clutch system, it really sounds like you got air in the hydraulic line.
But first it's important to restore the proper adjustment to the pedal pushrod. The master cylinder MUST return to it's proper position in order to vent back to the reservoir - that's important for auto-adjustment as the clutch disk wears out.
But first it's important to restore the proper adjustment to the pedal pushrod. The master cylinder MUST return to it's proper position in order to vent back to the reservoir - that's important for auto-adjustment as the clutch disk wears out.
Bleed the clutch system, it really sounds like you got air in the hydraulic line.
But first it's important to restore the proper adjustment to the pedal pushrod. The master cylinder MUST return to it's proper position in order to vent back to the reservoir - that's important for auto-adjustment as the clutch disk wears out.
But first it's important to restore the proper adjustment to the pedal pushrod. The master cylinder MUST return to it's proper position in order to vent back to the reservoir - that's important for auto-adjustment as the clutch disk wears out.
I looked around, and it seems like the slave failing shortly after a MC replacement is quite common.
car has 180k miles..
Last edited by wupah; Oct 17, 2012 at 11:42 AM.
There's a shop manual you can download. Sticky thread in Gen.Tech. about "common DIY" links; there should be one link about manuals.
As far as slave failure, about the only way a slave cylinder can fail results in fluid leaking out. It's only the master that can fail in a way that allows fluid to leak back into the reservoir.
As far as slave failure, about the only way a slave cylinder can fail results in fluid leaking out. It's only the master that can fail in a way that allows fluid to leak back into the reservoir.
Wow, that's a bit unusual, but thanks for posting the end of the story.
Happened to me a long time ago in a 72 Datsun. One of the dampening springs in the hub of the clutch disk broke, wedging itself between the clutch, flywheel, & pressure plate. It was all locked up & would not disengage at all. I didn't think of that because mine didn't disengage at all.
Happened to me a long time ago in a 72 Datsun. One of the dampening springs in the hub of the clutch disk broke, wedging itself between the clutch, flywheel, & pressure plate. It was all locked up & would not disengage at all. I didn't think of that because mine didn't disengage at all.
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